From sweltering in the heat in the Spiti Valley, I lie in my tent with all my warm clothes on listening to the pitter patter of rain in Chandra Tal. They say it might snow tonight.

On the way up Kunzum La

On the way up Kunzum La

I was in two minds about starting over the Kunzum La pass this morning. It was drizzling and there was a headwind. I was told it wasn’t dangerous – just cold.

The road continued its bumpy, rocky self as I edged forward through the wind and drizzle up to the 4590m pass.

Kunzum La

Kunzum La

I stopped in a hut entrance on the top, threw on lots of clothes, and ate some lunch. They say Kumzum La is the most beautiful pass in the Himalayas – surrounded by amazing mountains and views. All I saw was cloud, being blown across the pass in front of me, with the prayer flags fluttering at full tempo.

Kunzum La

Kunzum La

The road down was very beautiful, but too wet to photograph. Very steep mountains with little riverlets of white streaming down the sides. Half way up the mountains was a censor of clouds.

I took the turnoff to Chandra Tal. This is the absolute favourite place of my friend Mark. The road continued to be bumpy, and with a couple of river crossings, my feet got drenched. I need to stay dry.

On the way to Chandra Tal

On the way to Chandra Tal

There is a village of tents at Chandra Tal – all more expensive than I was expecting. I put up my tent, paid my $6, and joined some other travellers in the food tent, huddling around the wood stove.


My goodness. Today had so many elements. Beautiful monasteries, an absolutely spectacular descent into the Spiti Valley, and a 20km struggle into the wind on a bad road surface. I lie contented in my warm bed in Lossar, stomach full and body tingling after the exersion.

Spiti Valley

Spiti Valley

There is an alternative to the main road from Kaza to Lossar. It is hilly, passes some beautiful monasteries, and crosses a new bridge over a chasm. My cycling friend Mark crossed the chasm in a basket run by a pulley when he cycled here 2 years ago. Now there’s a bridge. Much less exciting but safer, I guess.

Chicham bridge

Chicham bridge

The monastery at Kee is on all the photos of Spiti Valley. Perched on a mound above the valley, it looks amazing from a distance.

Kee monastery

Kee monastery

Inside the monastery I was transported back to my cycle across the Tibetan Plateau. The smell of yak butter did it. I met all sorts of groups of people, and was able to speak Hindi, Indonesian and Chinese with them. Something else I love. All really lovely people.

View from the Kee monastery

View from the Kee monastery

Kibber was my lunch stop. I had a tea stop at a very unexpected place – at the top of a kind of mini pass – in flat green pastures full of cows.

The inconceivable cafe

The inconceivable cafe

The descent from there back to the Spiti Valley was incredible. The river was spread out over a silt plain, bordered by huge sandy sides rising up on both sides to plateaus high above the river. The weather looked threatening, making for a special experience.

Spiti Valley

Spiti Valley

Spiti Valley

Spiti Valley

The last 20km were a real slog. With a strong headwind, a bad road, undulating landscape, climbing on average, and a smattering of rain, I arrived exhausted in Lossar.

The road to Lossar

The road to Lossar

The road to Lossar

The road to Lossar

Tomorrow my first pass – Kunzum La.


That was an experience. Haircut, face massage that included a beating of the head and shaving foam massaged into my face for a very long time. Feels good. The things you do on a recover from altitude sickness day off.

Hair salon

Hair salon

I went to bed last night planning to climb 1000m into the heavens to see the world from above. This morning my headache made me consider otherwise. I decided to take the main road to the big town and chill. I realised I had made the right decision when every bump in the road made the headache worse. On arriving I went to the German bakery and ate a loaf of bread, a cinnamon scroll and another pastry.

I was hungry

I was hungry

I then went to bed. That’s what one does on a day off. Tomorrow some beautiful monasteries.


I saw something moving in the dusk. A black shape about 50m away on the river bed. I switched on my torch and saw him. A fox. With a big bushy tail. He turned to me and I saw his yellow eyes shine brightly in the torch light. Two points of yellow light. He moved closer. He paused. Then he backed off and stayed staring at me – the two yellow dots were all I could see. I didn’t think I’d see much wildlife. I watched him and he watched me. hope I don’t see a snow leopard like this.

A room with a view

A room with a view

Today’s goal was to camp in the river valley and watch the stars. The best place to do this was only 30km away, so I went on the detour (a 400m climb) to the Dankhar monastery. Perched on a rocky outcrop high above the valley, the monastery looks amazing from the valley, and the views from up there a incredible.

Climbing to the Dhankar monastery

Climbing to the Dhankar monastery

View from the Dhankar monastery

View from the Dhankar monastery

View from the Dhankar monastery

View from the Dhankar monastery

View from the Dhankar monastery

View from the Dhankar monastery

It remains incredibly hot for being at 3500m. When at the monastery, I decided it was too hot to go and see the beautiful lake an hour’s walk away. Instead I chatted with some French backpackers and Barbara – a woman I met in Kalpa and Nako.

The setting up the tent and the cooking went well. I even have a foxy friend to keep me company tonight.


From the cool heights of Nako to the hot river bed. I never expected to be hot at over 3000m. The sun radiated its heat from above and from the rock faces all around. I cycled through this playground of rock, ending in the monastery village of Tabo.

Tabo

Tabo

Today was about cycling, but also about taking, and sharing stories. I crosses paths with the New Zealand cyclists at breakfast and several places during the day. We also spent most of the late afternoon and evening talking. That didn’t leave much time for the monastery. That’s for tomorrow morning at the prayer service at 6.

Thomas, Jessica and myself

Thomas, Jessica and myself

The valley

The valley


I sit in the sun, high above the mountain village of Nako. Next to me groans the prayer wheel as it is goaded into motion by the wind. The prayer flags flutter, highlighted by the sun. Over 1000m below in front of me is the Spiti Valley and behind me is Tibet. I am alone, with only the sound of the wind and the flags, in this beautiful place.

Nako

Nako

I didn’t think I’d stay in Nako. It’s too high, and I’m not acclimatised. I also thought I’d have to do the climb only nourished by the biscuits I bought last night. Well, there was a Bob Marley ‘restaurant/ hotel’ 7km down the road before the climb started. I had some dahl and chepatis, and again in Kah – a sudden patch of green in the middle of a barren red rock and sand landscape.

Bob Marley restaurant

Bob Marley restaurant

The rest of the time I spent spiralling up into the heavens, surrounded by a bleak, rocky landscape. The river I saw disappear to obscurity below.

The climb

The climb

The river below

The river below

Barren landscape

Barren landscape

The climb continues

The climb continues

I arrived in Nako and fell in love with the place. So peaceful and beautiful. I guess the food helped too. I sat down and proceded to have 4 main courses and 3 lassis.

Nako cow

Nako cow

Nako street

Nako street

The Nako prayer wheel

The Nako prayer wheel


Today was the first day of my annual leave. Up to now it’s just been weekend and work-life balance days. Work- life balance feels so removed from where I am, sitting in a roadside store in the remote Himalayan village of Dubling, camping in the owner’s yard. I’m back on the road again.

My humble abode

My humble abode

Today had lots of different elements. Morning rain. An interesting discussion while watching the rain. Technical difficulties. Bad road surface but spectacular views. An unexpected camping experience in Dubling.

My hotel guest mate goes around to schools and puts on an educational performance. An interesting life. He had lots of tips for the road forward.

I’ll cut to the chase, and show some photos from this beautiful road.

Scree warning guy

Scree warning guy

Car wreck

Car wreck

Rivers joining

Rivers joining

View up the river

View up the river

Side stream

Side stream

The hotel that I was expecting in Dubling wasn’t there. I’d deliberately avoided the village of Pooh to stay in Dubling near the start of tomorrow’s big climb.

The kind shop owner let me pitch my tent in his yard. No longer credit card touring – just lots of human to human contacts.

I asked if there was somewhere to get dinner, and I was told that would be sorted out. A sequence of misunderstandings saw me go to bed when they shut up shop, and eat some biscuits in my tent. Then, when I was almost asleep I was invited to dinner. My hindi is, indeed, not brilliant. The evening was the perfect example of having to go with the flow, and see where out leads you.


I sat on the balcony, breathing in the view of the massive mountains on the opposite side of the valley. In front was the temple village of Kalpa. Slowly, slowly, the shadows of the mountains behind crept up the mountains in front until it faded to darkness.

Kalpa

Kalpa

The weather changed with a thunderstorm at 2am last night. It was cloudy and beautiful weather for climbing up the valley today.

Rock cut road

Rock cut road

The narrow road was cut out of a vertical cliff in parts. In others it dropped down to run just above the river.

Bridge

Bridge

There were lots of hydro electricity plants and lots of military garrisons. Regularly I was passed by one military truck after the next. You can tell this is near the disputed border with China.

Hydro power

Hydro power

The highlight was the climb from the valley to the capital of the district – Reckong Peo, and then up to the temple village of Kalpa. It was a bit of a slog though. Kalpa is over 1000m above the river.

Reckong Peo

Reckong Peo

Kalpa

Kalpa

Kalpa

Kalpa

I’m all kitted out for a forey tomorrow across the inner line – the area near the Chinese border.


‘And you switch it on for hot water.’
The hotel manager dangled the electric wire in the bucket of water, plugged the end into the power socket, and flicked the switch. There was a flash from the bucket in the dim, concrete floored room as the manager smiled, the fan creaking rhythmically in the background.

Hot water system

Hot water system

My spare battery sat happily on top of the fan control unit, the plug made taught in the socket with a rubber band. My clothes were sprawled out on the bed. I had decided not to climb the 700m up the side of the valley to the temple. I was hot and tired and I could feel the cramp coming on in my leg. Instead of the climb, I decided on an early night and an early start to bring myself to cooler climes.

Power plugs

Power plugs

I’m glad I did. I had a nice experience watching the shoemaker fixing up the crack in my sandals, and checked out the hot springs. I also had brief success eeking out a few WhatsApp messages at the cyber café.

Shoe maker

Shoe maker

After a breakfast at the happy chef’s restaurant from last night, I had a wonderful decent into the valley – nearly 2000m along a good quality road, not so steep to necessitate braking, with beautiful views.

Happy chef

Happy chef

The descent

The descent

I even met some other cyclists – Jessica and Thomas from NZ who have just finished the Karokorum Highway.

Jessica and Thomas

Jessica and Thomas

The valley was beautiful, and the road followed it, slowly rising higher and higher above the brown rushing water.

The valley

The valley

The valley

The valley

The road continues upward tomorrow – bringing me closer to the Spiti Valley. Yay!


Well. It wasn’t how I planned, but I’m here in one piece, as is the bike. No ordered taxi but an oversized motor rickshaw to my Dehli hotel at 1am. A 12 hour drive through the Himalayan traffic jam to the ski station (so the sign says) of Narkanda. The cycling can begin.

The plane was 2 hours late and my taxi driver didn’t show up. On ringing the hotel, they said they’d send him. I rang again half an hour later and they said I should find my own taxi.

I passed trough the crowds of taxi drivers offering exhorbitant rates, people pulling my packed trolley left and right, and ended up with my prepaid taxi slip being led to an oversized motor rickshaw. Somehow the bike fit, and we drove off into the Delhi night smog.

The driver didn’t know where the hotel was, so we stopped at the police to ask, called out to a homeless guy curled up in front of a shop window, and asked some dudes just hanging out, with their bellies exposed to the elements, China style.

I got to the hotel at 2am and then proceeded to put my bike together.

It all worked, and I smiled. I was one step closer to starting!

It was scorching outside as my taxi took me and bike through the heat along the dead straight freeway, lined from beginning to end with ‘dhabas’ – places to stop for food.

Finally the road started winding into the hills – and the traffic started banking up. The mountains are beautiful – not high yet, but very very steep. The road curls along their side with steep drops above and below. Villages consist of buildings on top of each other marching down the slopes.

The plan was to reach Shimla by 3. We were there as the sun was setting. My hotel and starting point of the bike trip was 60km past Shimla. We got there at 21:30. I’m knackered, and feel bad for my poor driver who must be even more tired. He had a 12 hour working day. I gave him a nice tip.