Posts Tagged ‘Chandra Tal’


It’s a hive of activity in the roadside hut. A stone wall with a plastic tarpolin roof, it epitimises warmth and comradary. Travellers come and go. They arrive shivering with cold, wet feet. They warm themselves up. Eat some food. Drink some tea. Tell some stories and continue on their journey. Batal – the roadside stop in the middle of a lonely road deep in the Himalayas.

The cosiness of Batal

The cosiness of Batal

I arrived here, like other travellers, wet and cold. It was raining. There was a head wind. My feet were wet from fording a few streams that were waterfalls across the road.

On the road I met 4 auto rickshaws bumping along. The road gets worse for me ahead, they said. Others have warned of this stretch – it’s worse than the rocky bumpy surface I’ve been navigating. Time to stop, and be fresh for the road tomorrow.

Batal

Batal

My humble abode is cool. A little hut. Actually it’s a stone wall with a plastic tarpolin as a roof. Inside there are heavy blankets, enough to snuggle up inside. I had an hour nap after lunch.

My humble abode

My humble abode

I spent the afternoon and evening chatting with all sorts of travellers. Indian trekking guides, people studying plants, people touring around, absorbing the surroundings.

This morning I made my way through the cold and wind to Chandra Tal – a beautiful high altitude lake. Clouds spent most of the time hanging over the surrounding mountains blocking the view. Occasionally the sun poked through, only to hide again a minute later.

Chandra Tal

Chandra Tal

Chandra Tal

Chandra Tal

Poem: Content

My nest is warm. I was cold. I piled the blankets on top of my shivering body and rubbed my legs together. I was still cold. I rubbed my legs together as a cardio workout, with vigour. And long. I stopped, gulping breaths of thin air. I had generated heat. My nest is warm.

My nest is protected. Outside the wind blows. My nest lies behind the stone hut out of the wind. The gusts of wind merely sway the plastic hanging from the roof, hiding the stone walls of my nest. My nest is protected from the wind.

My nest is dry. Outside I was wet. The rain was seeping through my clothes. My feet were icicles. My dancing manoeuvre across the stones of the river failed, and I had trodden, shin deep, in the icy water. With both feet. Outside I hear the pitter patter of rain. But inside, my nest is dry.

My nest has food. The owners of my nest have a big vat of rice. They take off the lid, and the steam envelopes them in a cloud. They have bubbling dahl and hot vegetables. They have a wall of chocolate biscuits. And another of chips. My nest has food.

My nest has water. On the tables of the owners’ of my nest are jugs and jugs of beautiful, fresh water. My nest has water.

My nest has smiles. My nest’s owners are happy. Laughing. Smiling. On the wall are newspaper clippings. They have won prizes – best tourism awards. They are here at the bottom of a high mountain pass. Rocky, bumpy, dreadful roads for miles and miles in all directions. Outside the elements are harsh, but here my nest is warm, and I am happy.


From sweltering in the heat in the Spiti Valley, I lie in my tent with all my warm clothes on listening to the pitter patter of rain in Chandra Tal. They say it might snow tonight.

On the way up Kunzum La

On the way up Kunzum La

I was in two minds about starting over the Kunzum La pass this morning. It was drizzling and there was a headwind. I was told it wasn’t dangerous – just cold.

The road continued its bumpy, rocky self as I edged forward through the wind and drizzle up to the 4590m pass.

Kunzum La

Kunzum La

I stopped in a hut entrance on the top, threw on lots of clothes, and ate some lunch. They say Kumzum La is the most beautiful pass in the Himalayas – surrounded by amazing mountains and views. All I saw was cloud, being blown across the pass in front of me, with the prayer flags fluttering at full tempo.

Kunzum La

Kunzum La

The road down was very beautiful, but too wet to photograph. Very steep mountains with little riverlets of white streaming down the sides. Half way up the mountains was a censor of clouds.

I took the turnoff to Chandra Tal. This is the absolute favourite place of my friend Mark. The road continued to be bumpy, and with a couple of river crossings, my feet got drenched. I need to stay dry.

On the way to Chandra Tal

On the way to Chandra Tal

There is a village of tents at Chandra Tal – all more expensive than I was expecting. I put up my tent, paid my $6, and joined some other travellers in the food tent, huddling around the wood stove.