Posts Tagged ‘Lossar’


From sweltering in the heat in the Spiti Valley, I lie in my tent with all my warm clothes on listening to the pitter patter of rain in Chandra Tal. They say it might snow tonight.

On the way up Kunzum La

On the way up Kunzum La

I was in two minds about starting over the Kunzum La pass this morning. It was drizzling and there was a headwind. I was told it wasn’t dangerous – just cold.

The road continued its bumpy, rocky self as I edged forward through the wind and drizzle up to the 4590m pass.

Kunzum La

Kunzum La

I stopped in a hut entrance on the top, threw on lots of clothes, and ate some lunch. They say Kumzum La is the most beautiful pass in the Himalayas – surrounded by amazing mountains and views. All I saw was cloud, being blown across the pass in front of me, with the prayer flags fluttering at full tempo.

Kunzum La

Kunzum La

The road down was very beautiful, but too wet to photograph. Very steep mountains with little riverlets of white streaming down the sides. Half way up the mountains was a censor of clouds.

I took the turnoff to Chandra Tal. This is the absolute favourite place of my friend Mark. The road continued to be bumpy, and with a couple of river crossings, my feet got drenched. I need to stay dry.

On the way to Chandra Tal

On the way to Chandra Tal

There is a village of tents at Chandra Tal – all more expensive than I was expecting. I put up my tent, paid my $6, and joined some other travellers in the food tent, huddling around the wood stove.


My goodness. Today had so many elements. Beautiful monasteries, an absolutely spectacular descent into the Spiti Valley, and a 20km struggle into the wind on a bad road surface. I lie contented in my warm bed in Lossar, stomach full and body tingling after the exersion.

Spiti Valley

Spiti Valley

There is an alternative to the main road from Kaza to Lossar. It is hilly, passes some beautiful monasteries, and crosses a new bridge over a chasm. My cycling friend Mark crossed the chasm in a basket run by a pulley when he cycled here 2 years ago. Now there’s a bridge. Much less exciting but safer, I guess.

Chicham bridge

Chicham bridge

The monastery at Kee is on all the photos of Spiti Valley. Perched on a mound above the valley, it looks amazing from a distance.

Kee monastery

Kee monastery

Inside the monastery I was transported back to my cycle across the Tibetan Plateau. The smell of yak butter did it. I met all sorts of groups of people, and was able to speak Hindi, Indonesian and Chinese with them. Something else I love. All really lovely people.

View from the Kee monastery

View from the Kee monastery

Kibber was my lunch stop. I had a tea stop at a very unexpected place – at the top of a kind of mini pass – in flat green pastures full of cows.

The inconceivable cafe

The inconceivable cafe

The descent from there back to the Spiti Valley was incredible. The river was spread out over a silt plain, bordered by huge sandy sides rising up on both sides to plateaus high above the river. The weather looked threatening, making for a special experience.

Spiti Valley

Spiti Valley

Spiti Valley

Spiti Valley

The last 20km were a real slog. With a strong headwind, a bad road, undulating landscape, climbing on average, and a smattering of rain, I arrived exhausted in Lossar.

The road to Lossar

The road to Lossar

The road to Lossar

The road to Lossar

Tomorrow my first pass – Kunzum La.