Posts Tagged ‘Nordkapp’

The third and final video segment of my summer bike trip is ready. After 5000km, arctic-cycler is well and truly in the arctic. I explored the barren, glacial landscape of Norway’s northern-most peninsulas. I cycled down roads most do not visit. At peace with the beauty of Norway.

The video of the second segment of my cycle trip this summer is ready. This is the Scandinavian segment where I started in Helsinki, passed through Finland, Sweden and Norway to the North Cape (Nordkapp). I cycled through endless beautiful forests, lovely little villages, fought off swarms of ravenous mosquitos, and did a lot of night cycling. Night time is the most beautiful and peaceful time to be on the road. I ended at the North Cape to appear on Norwegian television. Another highlight of the trip. 🙂

The cycle trip to the North Cape is now over, and the post cycle pleasure is just starting. I have put together the first of three videos on my cycle trip. This video is on the leg of the trip from Eindhoven to Tallinn. I hope you like the video. It was fun putting it together! 🙂

Amazing light cycling at night up the Porsangen fjord, 5000km from Holland in the North Cape tunnel. And the North Cape where I was interviewed for norwegian TV. A fantastic day.

Day 41. 149km. Olderfjord – Nordkapp. Map and gpx.


In 2013 I will be cycling from Eindhoven in the Netherlands to the North Cape via the Baltic countries. I have been putting together a planned cycle route from different sources on the internet, generating a gpx file of the route.

After speaking to a Polish guy, writing on some Polish cycle blogs, and doing some more internet research, I have decided to change my route through Poland to follow the coast, and pass through Gdansk.

Here is my new route.

To reach the coast Baltic Sea coast in Poland, I also changed my route through Germany, using a cool bike route finder called Naviki.
18.11.2012: I updated the German route following recommendations by a German cycling forum.

My route through Poland now follows the EuroVelo 10 path, passes down an amazing looking sand peninsula to a place called Hel, and passes through Gdansk.

Thanks to Pawel for inspiring me to cycle along the coast, and to check out the Polish cycling forums. And thanks to all the people on the cycling forum that helped me out.

The new Polish route is a concatination of routes obtained from The main one was the EuroVelo R10 route.

I have now created a summary video of my cycle trip from Bodø to Nordkapp. Check it out!

YouTube video of the Bodø - Nordkapp 2012 cycle trip

YouTube video of the Bodø – Nordkapp 2012 cycle trip

In 2012 I cycled from Bodø to the North Cape (Nordkapp), a total of 1330 km, completing my bike tour of Norway started with Ed in 1997, when we cycled from Tønsberg to Oslo, and then to Bodø.

It was a spectacular trip. What were my highlights? There were many. Here are my top 4.

Highlight 1: The team of 4 met on the boat, and cycled together on the magical island of Senja. The weather was perfect, and our wild camping place on our own private fjord was spectacular. We bathed in the midnight sun.
Highlight 2: I climbed the almost vertical wall behind the village of Reine on the Lofoten islands to experience the most exquisite panorama. Moskenesøya at midnight.
Highlight 3: Skirting the northern coast on Austvågøya on the Lofoten islands on the way to Fiskebøl. Majestic mountains, fjords and serene tranquility.
Highlight 4: Arriving at the North Cape (Nordkapp). It was windy. It was cold. It was barren. And it was spectacular. I had made it. What a feeling!

Here is a day by day summary of the trip. I am interested to know which parts you likes. Click on like or rate on the individual day posts to let me know! 🙂

Day 0. To start in Moskenes Surrounded by pointy mountains and beautiful blue sky I set up my tent in Moskenes. Then I climb to the top of a peak above the town of Reine to experience the most exquisite panorama. Moskenesøya at midnight.
Day 1. Moskenes – Ørsnesvika. 131km The south of the islands are bathed in sun, the north in cloud, and I alternate between the two. Every turn reveals a new panorama.
Day 2. Ørsnesvika – Stokmarknes. 100kmSun, pointed peaks, fjords and tranquility. A highlight of the trip following the coast on Austvågøya island.
Day 3. Stokmarknes – Frøskeland. 73 km Cycling along the quiet north road on Langøya. I couch surfed with the lovely Svein near Sortland.
Day 4. Frøskeland – Andernes. 127 km The beautiful Andøya island was bathed in low hanging cloud. No midnight sun cycle, but ghostly scenery of pointy mountains in the mist.
Day 5. Andernes – Ersfjord. 80 km The team of 4 cycle along fjords, up steep long valleys, through tunnels into the wild and absolutely breathtaking scenery of Senja island. Wild camping on our own private fjord, we bathe in the midnight sun.
Day 6. Ersfjord – Tromsø. 94 km An early morning ride across Senja with not a soul around. Goal is Tromsø, and a hotel with curtains. After an afternoon sleep, I see the midnight sun looking out from above over Tromsø.
Day 7. Tromsø – Fosslv. 131 km. Rain as I cycle the road I passed in the winter with Dad and Valerie. A race against the clock to catch a ferry. An afternoon of amazing threatening clouds hanging low over the mountains. And no more rain.
Day 8. Fosselv – Alta. 161 km Mountain passes and a long road along the fjord. 50 metres up and 50 metres down, 30 metres up and 30 metres down. All the way to Alta. Exhausting. And then another broken spoke. The spoke problem is now serious.
Day 9. Alta. 40 km No bike mechanics in Alta, and my spoke replacements aren’t doing the job. An attempt to leave Alta failed, and I return, dejected, not knowing what to do next.
Day 10. Alta (car: Hammerfest). 11 km A car hired, 130 km driven, and a new wheel bought in the northerly town of Hammerfest. The bike is now OK to continue.
Day 11. Alta – Repvåg. 153 km. High tundra plain and windy coastal road. The North Cape is approaching!
Day 12. Repvåg – Nordkapp – Honningsvåg. 118 km The Nordkapp tunnel, and then a windy, hilly, chilly, and beautiful slog to the North Cape with Chris. Goal achieved! I am happy!
Day 13. Honningsvåg. 0 km Down day in Honningsvåg. Cups of tea, talks with Chris, and a 50 metre dash through the rain to the supermarket.
Day 14. Honningsvåg – Kjøllefjord – Mehamn. 39 km Journey in the grey to the Nordkyn peninsula. A bleak, barren and windswept place. Beautiful!
Day 15. Mehamn – Slettnes – Kjøllefjord. 72 km The most northern lighthouse on mainland europe. Another broken spoke, and a drenching, cold, windy return towards Kjøllefjord.

Wow! So much awesomeness packed into one day it makes my head spin! The strongest headwinds to date as I crawl up the windswept, barren coast from Repvåg to Honningsvåg to meet up with Chris for lunch. Beautiful and worthy of a final approach to the end of the earth.

Leaving Repvåg

Leaving Repvåg

Leaving Repvåg

Leaving Repvåg

Then, entrance to the final approach is only granted to those that can pass ‘the tunnel’. A 3 km dive to 212 m under the sea at 9% slope, followed by a 9% climb to materialize in the rocky, mountainous spectacular Magerøya island.

Entering the tunnel

Entering the tunnel

I stop at the entrance to gather myself and eat a chocolate bar or 5. The wind is howling at the entrance and a periodic electronic chime sounds from the mouth of the tunnel as if to warn those that dare to enter. A car emerges from the tunnel and a Swedish couple get out. ‘it’s long and steep,’ they warn, ‘and no room to walk your bike!’ They look concerned for me. I know what I am doing, I reassure them, and plunge in.

I pass the roll down gate 20 m inside the tunnel that opens and closes in the winter to let the individual cars pass, and then accelerate to the depths. Faster and faster, and I get colder and colder. I start to shake from the cold and my teeth start to chatter as I accelerate down and down into the dead straight tube.

In the tunnel

In the tunnel

When cars pass its like an enormous train passing by just over my head. Then, it’s silence once more. Just the whirring round of my wheels.

I am glad when I reach the bottom and start cycling out. I can warm up. It gets steeper and steeper as I slog forward in low gear. But, there is no headwind: a blessing.

Following the coast, now on Magerøya, I crawl along further into the wind before entering another long tunnel. This time it was must less strenuous. A gentle climb for 2 km and a gentle drop, again without wind. I start whistling, making an orchestra of sound echoing off the walls from all directions. A tribute to mum. All her favourites. She whistled all the time.

I arrive at Honningsvåg and enter the Nordkapp guesthouse (quite a common name in these parts). Chris is upstairs in the communal area reading a book in the warmth. We sit and a chat, comparing stories of this trip and others, and made plans for the day. Cycle the last 30km to Nordkapp and then a walk to Knivskjelodden for dinner. This is the true most northerly point of Europe: a low lying peninsula one bay across from the Nordkapp. A 9 km walk from the carpark. We go shopping, planning to cook up a feast on the most northerly point, watching the bus loads of tourists on the Nordkapp.

We talk and talk, and laugh, and before we know it, it is 15:00. We need to hurry. We still want to do a lot.

The final assault can only be completed by those that have made it this far. The wind is brutal, as are the long steep climbs: up and down and up again. During the whole trip from the Lofoten islands to here, I have had a head wind. The gods smile on us today and dish up a hurricane that is conveniently a tail wind on all up hill stretches and a ferocious head wind going down. On the flat bits it is often a side wind.



And, man, it is beautiful scenery. A winding road through rugged, barren, rocky land. Grass and moss. Rocks and stones. Lakes and fjords. Herds of reindeer. Sweeping views before dropping down along the road curving down to the bottom.

Towards Nordkapp

Towards Nordkapp

Towards Nordkapp

Towards Nordkapp

Towards Nordkapp

Towards Nordkapp




The last grunt to the Nordkapp is with a side wind and we freeze to death. We stop at the start of the walk to Knivskjelodden and hide under the shelter out of the wind for a snack. Then up and up. We get a discount entrance to the North Cape complex. Cyclists are classified as British students and get the reduced rate. We pass through the village of camper vans and buses and into the warmth.

From inside we look out the glass at the globe which everyone photos when they come here. That is for later. First a hot chocolate, a waffle, and soak up the warmth.

Well, dear readers. Here is the proof picture. Chris and I at the North Cape.


It is too cold and too late to go to Knivskjelodden, and so we have dinner at the restaurant at the end of the universe and make our way back.

We remark over and over with glee how perfect the direction of this hurricane wind is. Perfect head wind to brake our steep descents and perfect tail wind on the climbs. We whiz on home in 2 hours. A snappy time for 30 km in Norway.

Content, I curl up into bed.

I am happy to announce that the page ‘The Journey’ has now been added to my blog page. This tells about the cycle trip I am planning this year from Bodø to Nordkapp.

My first post.

Posted: May 5, 2012 in Cycling
Tags: , ,

Hi there. Well, this is my first post here. I intend to use this blog on my cycle trip to the Nordkapp in Norway. In 1997 I cycled from Oslo to Bodø, just north of the polar circle. This year (2012), 15 years later, I will continue this trip to Nordkapp – the most northern place on mainland Europe.