We are climbing Khardung La tomorrow. Terrain is no boundary. We are going to bash on regardless.
Bash on regardless
It was an uneventful return to Leh. We got our permit and ate a lot (again). I don’t want to stay a skeleton. 🙂
Day 22. 36km. Nimmu (3124m) – Leh (3440m)
Posted: August 11, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Leh, Nimmu
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Day 21. 40km. Sespol (3092m) – Nimmu (3124m)
Posted: August 10, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Nimmu, Sespol
We got a cheer from the Dutch tourists. Later we got a round of applause from the French crowd. We were superhuman cycling in this heat. Little did they know we only cycled 5km to the river, swam, and lay on the sand.
The skeleton basking in the sun at the Zanskar River
We don’t seem to get around to much cycling. After cycling alone for nearly a month, it’s nice to have someone to talk to. There’s also no goal of the cycling. We’re just killing time before our flights back home.
On the way to Nimmu
Tomorrow is Leh again, and then the highest road in the world – Khardung La.
Day 20. 63km. Leh (3440m) – Sespol (3092m)
Posted: August 9, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Leh, Sespol
When I got up this morning, I expected to be sleeping in Leh this evening. A sudden decision to be on the move with the New Zealander Jessica saw us climb and descend in the heat through barren, rocky landscape to end in a Sesspool.
Jessica climbing in the sun
Jessica wanted to go over 100km to a place called Lamayuru and then meander on back in 2 days, doing a few side trips. My friend Mark had said that there was a lot of climbing on the first day, and.. There was a lot of long climbs in the very hot landscape. We didn’t make it over 100km. We made it just over 60 before retiring in a nice café and eating a lot.
Drahtesel in the sun
The confluence of the Zanskar and Indus rivers
We spent the late afternoon visiting an old Buddhist cave, and the evening talking.
Day 19. 78km. Lato (3999m) – Leh (3440m)
Posted: August 8, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Lato, Leh
The road catapulted down a narrow canyon of earth red rock, the sedimentary layers pushing to the sky at 45 degrees. Bursts of green grass and yellow flowers around the villages. That was the small side valley I passed down. The Indus valley was one long military base.
The valley heading towards the Indus
Excuse the weather. It was grey. It rained a bit. Not inviting for any detours to monasteries and the like, so I pushed on straight to Leh.
There I met Jessica again, who I had met with Thomas back on day 1. She’s leaving Leh in a week too, and were cobbling some plans together.
Leh has also been a big feed. And not on rice and lentils.
Getting some calories in
Day 18. 80km. Thukje (4542m) – Lato (3999m)
Posted: August 7, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Lato, Thukje
‘I’ll take a selfie with you. One minute.’ Then someone else, and another. Phones thrust into my face from all sides. Meanwhile, the wind was blowing the cold hail through my thin jacket. I retired to the warm food hut. My own selfie by myself would have to wait. The trials and tribulations at the top of the second highest road in the world.
Taglang La
Today was the day of the cyclists. I spent a lovely breakfast and 17km ride with the German couple Jane and Daniel. I spent about 5km with two Spanish guys before we split up – my pace being too slow. And I met an American cyclist on the way down.
Taglung La felt like a real pass. The climb went on and on, and the weather was wild – changing it’s mind every couple of minutes. Tailwind. Headwind. Sun. Hail. Thunder.
Approaching Taglang La
Just before the top, the wind tried it’s best to blow me off the mountain, and it started hailing on cue as I arrived at the top.
Taglang La
The way down was spectacular (even if the photos weren’t). After skirting the side of the mountain a bit, the road dived down to a small stream way below through a bunch of sharp switchbacks on a bright red mountain slope. The hurricane wind was mostly a tailwind, except on some switchbacks, where I pedalled to move downwards.
The road down from Taglang La
Once I reached the stream at the bottom, I flew, blown by the very strong wind. Travelling between 40 and 50 kmh, I had my first glimpse of Ladakh. Villages with sudden bursts of green and yellow, and gompas everywhere. The weather sucked, so I stopped at Lato to experience this beautiful valley in the sun tomorrow.
The river at the base of Taglang La
The greenery of Ladakh
Day 17. 61km. Pang (4469m) – Thukje (4542m)
Posted: August 6, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Pang, Thukje
The bike stood there on the dry lake in the scorching sun. Around the bike were circles of tyre tracks from some motorbike enthusiast. Taking a photo of the scene every 5 seconds was the GoPro. Finally shade came, I packed up, left, and it started to hail.
Salt lake
Today was hot with a tailwind – except when it was hailing or raining with a strong headwind. The weather can change at the drop of a hat on these high altitude plains, and it did, numerous times.
This morning I climbed out of the canyon that Pang finds itself in, to be met with an amazing view of both the canyon and the beautiful More Plains.
Above Pang
Above Pang
Rolling along, I took many photos as I watched wild horses roaming in the distance.
More Plains
More Plains
My intention was to stay at Tso Kar lake, which was a 17km detour from the main road.
Towards Two Kar
I never really found the lake. There were mounds of grass, and hillocks of sand, but no big expanse on water.
Tso Kar lake
Tso Kar lake
There were, however, 2 German cyclists who are cycling from the other direction. We spent most of the evening together, exchanging stories.
Day 16. 79km. Sarchu (4289m) – Pang (4469m)
Posted: August 5, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Pang, Sarchu
Today I woke fresh and well. I cycled up the Gata Loops (21 hairpin bends) and over the Nakeela Pass. The top of the next pass was in view. It was early and so I pushed on. My first 5000+m pass and oodles of amazing views.
The view down from Lachung La
My theory about my sickness yesterday is that my water filter contains evil bacteria. I ate almost nothing and what I did eat went straight through me. My body couldn’t get any protein to make new haemoglobin, hence the new round of altitude sickness. I’m now well fed, and free of gastro, and no headache at all. All ready to attack the double pass of Nakeela and Lachung La.
The road followed the river, with one stunning view being replaced by the next around every corner.
Leaving Sarchu
Road from Sarchu
Road from Sarchu
The Gata Loops at the start of the Nakeela Pass saw a few traffic jams as the road is only wide enough for one car.
Climbing the Gata Loops
Finally I passed the Nakeela Pass, only to see the pitiful Whisky Nalah straddling a dry creek bed just below.
Nakeela La
The disappointment of Whiskey Nala with Lachung La in the background
I couldn’t stay here, and there was time, so I climbed the Lachung La and descended an extremely beautiful but bumpy road into Pang.
Lachung La
View down from Lachung La
Towards Pang
Towards Pang
Today was a rest day. First the problem was diahorrea. Some rehydration salts helped a bit. Later in the day I developed a headache. It was really worth staying put today.
Sarchu
I am surprised about the headache. I’ve been at this altitude for days. Anyway, I’ll reevaluate things tomorrow.
Day 14. 48km. Zing Zing Bar (4284m) – Sarchu (4289m)
Posted: August 3, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Sarchu, Zing Zing Bar
This evening I finally took the antibiotics. I feel very weak and have diahorrea. Still, I made it over a 4850m pass. I think a rest day may be on the cards tomorrow.
Baralacha Pass
I slept badly last night. I just couldn’t get warm. I also couldn’t bring myself to eat much. This all lead to a snail-paced crawl up the mountain.
It was beautiful climbing into snowy regions. There was a beautiful mountain lake near the top and amazing views at every turn.
Descending the Baralacha Pass
Lake at the top of the Baralacha Pass
I stopped in the tent village down from the pass and hung between awake and asleep. I forced down some food and continued down the valley on a road that was sometimes prestine and sometimes very bumpy.
Valley below the Baralacha Pass
Valley on the way to Sarchu
Day 13. 61km. Keylong (3145m) – Zing Zing Bar (4284m)
Posted: August 2, 2018 in Cycling, IndiaTags: Cycling, India, Keylong, Manali Leh Road, Zing Zing Bar
The horses were pushed forward by the shepherd and back by the bulldozer. Some were pressed against the prescipice. After a brief moment of panic they moved to safety. Finally the horses did lead the way past the bulldozer and forklift truck to push through the freshly fallen scree. It all took half an hour.
Clearing the road
I was impatient. I know – I shouldn’t have been. Cycling with the British cyclist Josh, we had got it into our heads to make it over the Barachala Pass in one day. He was on the other side of the scree as the minutes ticked by.
We decided around Pastio to give it a go. I put on my Infected Mushroom music for the first time this trip, and felt so alive and happy. I felt strong as I climbed the hairpins, with beautiful mountains as a backdrop. I got in the zone and laughed with joy.
The road up
At Pastio, we remarked that there were only men there. No women. It is a man thing – a right of passage of a sort – to ride the Manali Leh on a motorbike. The men were bathing in the lake there. It was a bit cold for us, and anyway, we were men with a mission. Next stop: Zing Bar.
The road to Zing Zing Bar
Before Zing Zing Bar I got cramp in my leg. *sigh* I sent a message on to Josh through a passing car that he should continue. I’ll make it to Zing Zing Bar and stay the night. Rather than continuing, he returned, and we cycled the last km to Zing Zing Bar together.
After a prolonged meal, be both continued. The tents for sleeping were 6km further on.
I’m now happily set up in Zing Zing Bar. Josh is on his way over the pass. I think it will be tight, getting over the pass on daylight – even without cramp. Zing Zing Bar is a cool place to spend the evening.
Zing Zing Bar
Zing Zing Bar
My tent at Zing Zing Bar
arctic-cycler.com 