My arrival in Luang Namtha sees the end of my delayed posts of my cycle trip through China. Like for the rest of my trip, I have put together a little video. This video is of the section from Xiahe to Luang Namtha. I hope you like it!
Posts Tagged ‘Laos’
New cycle video: Xiahe (China) – Luang Namtha (Laos)
Posted: January 12, 2016 in China, Cycling, LaosTags: China, Cycling, Laos
Day 244. 38km. Na Teuy – Luang Namtha
Posted: January 11, 2016 in Cycling, LaosTags: Cycling, Laos, Luang Namtha, Na Teuy
The end was in sight, and was reached today. Arrival in my place of rest was wonderful. Afternoon sleeps. Banana smoothies. Finalising my video. Listening to podcasts in bed. Everything the heart desires. The simple pleasures of a completely exhausted cyclist!
Three days of relaxation until Mark arrives. Several rounds of the three pizzas for the price of two deal at the local fast food place, and drinking lots of banana smoothies.
After having recovered somewhat, a kayak trip through the dense jungle did the trick. Such rich green, pouring down the steep river banks. Long roots hanging down from the heavens into the water, as we navigated through the cool water as it eased around the rocks, down the valley. Butterflies – blue ones and yellow ones. Dragonflies of all colours. Birds. A beautiful cacophony of nature.
Day 243. 73km. Mengla – Na Teuy
Posted: January 10, 2016 in China, Cycling, LaosTags: China, Cycling, Laos, Mengla, Na Teuy
I have left the People’s Republic of China, and am now in Laos. I staggered over the border – I have spent all my energy cycling in China, and am ready for a tropical rest in Laos.
I started on the old road today. I curved its way around the landscape as expected, but, was the centre of much roadwork activity. With the peace gone, the road surface only OK, and delays while trucks did their thing, I returned to the new road, went through tunnels, and got to the border faster.
I am staying in a little village 20km over the border in Laos. Another 35km tomorrow to Louang Namtha and then a rest while I wait for Mark (who cycled with me in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan) to join me.
New cycle video: Luang Namtha (Laos) – Bangkok (Thailand)
Posted: December 16, 2015 in Cambodia, Cycling, Laos, ThailandTags: Cambodia, Cycling, Laos, Thailand
I have finished cycling for 2015 and my trusty bike is getting a service – new rims, and various odds and ends are being fixed. In Bangkok, other than eating, I have been working on my latest video, which is now ready for viewing. 🙂 I hope you like it!
Day 268. 88km. Don Det – Stung Treng
Posted: November 27, 2015 in Cambodia, Cycling, LaosTags: Border Crossing, Bribery, Cambodia, Cycling, Don Det, Laos, Stung Treng
‘That will be $2.’
‘Can I have a receipt please?’
‘You can have the stamp for $1.’
‘Can I have a receipt please?’
‘OK. You can go.’
Border crossing in Laos.

My first glimpse of Khmer script on this trip
I have left my favourite place in Laos – Don Det. It just exudes ‘chill’ and I love it. On my day off I explored the islands of Don Det and Don Khon, ate, and hung out with a group of Belgians, and also with a German and Australian (from my home town Adelaide).

Little path on Don Khon

Sunset on Don Det

Kids playing at sunset, Don Det
Today I visited the largest waterfall in Asia (by volume), bribed my way through the Laos/Cambodia border crossing famous for its corruption, and sped along an often dusty road to the Cambodian Mekong town of Stung Treng (passing 23000km on the way).

Phapheng waterfall

My lovely frangipani

23000km

The dusty road

Crossing the bridge to Stung Theng
Tomorrow a change of plan. A detour to a secret homestay on a secret island in the Mekong. The marketing people haven’t done a good job at spreading the word. I’m very excited about it.
For the record: Bribery and crossing from Laos into Cambodia.
– Laos exit stamp. They wanted $2, but on insisting I get a receipt, I got the stamp for free.
– Medical check. I was tested for malaria by having a little machine pointed in the vague direction of my head, and waiting for it to beep. I don’t have malaria, and was able to reduce the bribe amount from $2 down to $1 by smiling and acting stupid (not too hard for me).. ☺
– Cambodia visa. I paid $35 (it should have been $30). No receipt was possible, and no discussion was possible. It costs $2 more if you don’t have a passport photo. No further bribe for the entrance stamp.
Day 267. 106km. Thang Beng – Don Det
Posted: November 24, 2015 in Cycling, LaosTags: Cycling, Don Det, Laos, Thang Beng
This place is chilled. The boat took me and my bike across the wide expanse of still water and green tropical islands to a place where time flows slower – it loses meaning. The reggae beat, the cool breeze of the fan, the hammock, the heat, the river. Don Det island.

Arrival on Don Det island
Fate brought me here. It wasn’t my original plan. On this trip I have learned to go with the flow, and the flow brings you to the coolest of places and experiences. This hippy, twenty-something hangout is about going with the flow. Here I can practice not sticking to strict timetables and burning kilometres. My body needs it.
From Vientiane I was going to cycle directly to Bangkok before embarking on my Bangladesh/India/Burma side trip. With unrest in Bangladesh and mandatory noisy police escorts for cyclists, I cancelled that. I rejoined with Mark who was cycling down the length of Laos and then to Siem Reap in Cambodia. Why not join him? So now I find myself in the 4000 islands in the Mekong River on the Laos/Cambodia border. Unfortunately I am now without Mark, who is still recovering from Dengue fever.
I left before sunrise this morning to avoid the heat, and enjoyed the empty road. There were few villages and few people. There was some farming, but more wooded plains. It feels I have left the populated part of Laos, on the road to the border. There is only the backpacker chill hangout left before the Mekong slides over the border into Cambodia.

Cycling in the morning light

Cycling in the morning light

The boat to Don Det

The bridge from Don Det to Don Khon
Day 266. 82km. Pakse – Thang Beng
Posted: November 23, 2015 in Cycling, LaosTags: Cycling, Laos, Pakse, Thang Beng
The crowds were flocking to Wat Phou in the heat– in busses, on motorbikes, in the back of shared vans. I went there too, but also to Wat Phou Ngoi – a real temple, being used, perched high above the Mekong. The still expanse of water and islands lay presented below me. Beside the monks, I was the only one there.

Wat Phou Ngoi

Wat Phou Ngoi

Wat Phou Ngoi
Wat Phou also sits above the plains with a steep staircase running to the top. At the base they were busy slicing rocks and hammering as loudly as possible.

Wat Phou
The towns around Champasak along the Mekong were lovely, with beautiful views over sandy beaches on the opposite shore. My destination lay on the other side, and a bit closer to tomorrow’s destination of the 4000 islands.

Crossing the Mekong

Returning to Route 13
Day 265. 121km. Tad Lo – Pakse
Posted: November 22, 2015 in Cycling, LaosTags: Cycling, Laos, Pakse, Tad Lo
1000m up. 1100m down. Back to where I was this time 48 hours ago. Bolevan Plateau – tick. It was nice – nice to get into cooler climes, nice to cycle through some greenery away from Highway 13. It was also hard work. I’m ready for the main road again.

The looming clouds
For the first time on my trip I have saddle sores. Ouch. All this sweating climbing a kilometre into the sky has made some parts very tender. The climb was constant but never terribly steep. It was a peaceful road and very pleasant.

The morning road
Lots of coffee, and a big waterfall.

Coffee

The top of the waterfall

The waterfall
Day 264. 90km. Pakse – Tad Lo
Posted: November 21, 2015 in Cycling, LaosTags: Cycling, Laos, Pakse, Tad Lo
There is a smell. I’ve only smelled it in Laos. A sweet fragrant aroma floating through the mountains. I don’t know what it is. I’ll call it the flower of Laos, and it was in great abundance today as I cycled along to the back door of the Bolevan Plateau.

The colourful road
After leaving the busy dual carriageway the road became quieter. The initial climb of 300m took the edge off the heat, and I had a pleasant meander through the green, lush landscape skirting the hills rising up to the Bolevan Plateau. It was a bit up-and-down, but nothing that slowed me down too much. I saw quite a few tourists on motorbikes waving at me, and congregating at the places mentioned in the Lonely Planet. Tad Lo is a vibrant little backpacker village next to a lovely little waterfall.

Happy kids

Papaya

Green

Tad Lo
Day 263. 78km. Napong – Pakse
Posted: November 20, 2015 in Cycling, LaosTags: Cycling, Laos, Napong, Pakse
An early start and a tailwind meant that I was in Pakse by lunch-time. The afternoon was spent planning where I will be cycling next. The Bolevan Plateau, here I come!

View from my guesthouse in Pakse