Today we left the tropics – although the tropical weather ended long ago. It’s been about 9 months since I entered the tropics in China and about 18000km. Now onward into the temperate winter.
Tropic of Capricorn
We’ve arrived in Alice Springs, and are staying with my uncle’s niece Julie and her husband Lyall. A lovely couple who have welcomed us into their family and life here.
Today Clement had his first Golden Gaytime with me. It was delicious.
Clement’s first Golden Gaytime
It was a late start today after our conversation until late in the night. It was cool to see the excitement in Elias’ (a backpacker working at the camping ground) when we were talking about the bike trip. I think we have a member of the 2017 trans-Asia cycling club. Clement and I are 2015 members.
Elias and Greg
The road was straight and the wind was not too strong. We are now within a day’s cycle of Alice Springs, camping at a roadside rest spot. We had a lovely campfire and dinner with a Polish couple. All ready for the bright lights, big city tomorrow.
‘You’re lucky to see it all this green,’ sail Lyall pointing to the dead brown grass along the side of the road. ‘It’s rained a lot here recently.’
It looked pretty dry to us.
My 38000km rest spot
We were cycling along the endless road without a bend, when a driver, standing next to his stationary truck called out to me: ‘Matthew?’
I stopped.
‘Yes.’
It was Lyall – husband of my uncle’s niece. I was contacted by my uncle’s niece, who I haven’t met (yet) a few days ago, and we were invited to stay with them in Alice Springs. Now Lyall – a truckie – was looking out for me on his drive from Alice Springs to Tennant Creek.
Today the kilometres passed a lot easier. We even had tailwind for some of the way. We find ourselves sleeping with the backpackers working at the local caravan park. Very cool guys – we stayed up into the night talking and got another view of Australia.
I didn’t sleep last night. The tent was shaking and flapping in the gale force winds, and I lay supporting the frame from gusts in all directions. The rest of the day I was like a zombie staggering on – pushing against the strong winds and dreaming of sleep in a warm, wind-free place.
Devils Marbles
When I got up, Clement’s tent was gone – he’d dismounted it to prevent the wind from destroying it. Mine was only held in place by my panniers placed at the four corners.
The weather had changed. Stronger winds and colder. A few rests at roadhouses (including an alien roadhouse) was an attempt to regain my will to continue. I was never motivated today, though, as the road was absolutely dead straight and flat into the wind, and I was quite simply tired.
Stuart Highway
‘We eat kangaroo, emu, goanna,..’
‘How do you kill the kangaroo?’ I ask.
‘Shoot it,’ he replied, ‘or run it over.’ He chuckled.
Waiting for Clement in the supermarket in Tennant Creek I had a short lesson on bush tucker.
Devils Marbles
A group of aboriginals were hanging around the entrance to the supermarket, so I went and started talking to them while Clement was shopping. They told me of bush bananas and bush oranges. They told me how to cook a kangaroo, and they told about the bush version of marijuana. Clement is keen on cooking a road-kill kangaroo (if it is fresh). Now I know how to cook it..
After Tennant Creek there was an awful lot of nothing. The road was dead straight which plays on the mind. Clement ran out of water for the first time (I gave him some of mine). In the dry he doesn’t drink much less than me (compared to 1/5 of what I drink in Indonesia).
We arrived at Devils Marbles just as the sun was setting. They are very beautiful.
Devils Marbles
It used to happen to me a lot just after she died. Doing something else, thinking of something else, and bang. I would burst into tears. That was in 2005. And it happened to me today. I am nearing where I grew up, and nearing where her ashes are scattered. The scenery looks familiar, and suddenly I was transported to that hospital room. The last time I saw mum alive – in 2005.
Banka Banka
I guess noone noticed my contorted face behind the sunglasses. They pass by quickly anyway. The scenery rolled past, and I was in another world.
Our start was late, after having a glorious hot shower, and then talking with almost everyone in the camping ground. We met some other cyclists today – one was from Thailand and has cycled 100000km over 5 years. That puts everything in perspective.
The thai cyclist
We only made 81km today to Threeways before chatting with a French cyclist and 2 French backpackers. Tomorrow will be a long day – shopping in Tennant Creek and then on to the Devil’s Marbles for sunset.
The gang at Threeways
Standing on the side of the road with Clement’s shorts pulled down, I carefully wrote 40,000 on his bum with black marker. He then preceded to remove all his clothes while cycling as the evening blue turned to indigo in the sky. I joined him and we cycled naked in the night, the amazing panorama of stars above us, and the truck drivers shining their bright headlights at us. And we sang – ‘Un kilometre à poil, ça use, ça use..’
Celebrating 40000km for Clement in outback Australia.
40000km for Clement
Today was awesome. It’s great to be alive!
We met some cool people at our lazy lunch stop (after 60km of headwind). ‘Just go up and say g’day!’ said Peter, as I told I wanted to know more about aboriginals, their culture and their knowledge and wisdom of this land. ‘They just want to be taken as they are, as people.’
I know he’s right, and it’s an obvious thing to say and do, but it gave me the courage to do it. I had a short conversation with an aboriginal as he walked past our picnic lunch spot. He was from Elliott, and coming back from a trip to Tennant Creek. It will be something I do forward. Like maybe many white Australians there is a barrier – maybe a subconscious fear. I want to break this barrier. And I will
Today had vista panorama views – over nothingness. Complete, wide and immense – nothing. Cycling through this I feel happy, and I feel free.
Stuart Highway
Stuart Highway
Sunset orange
We were welcomed with open arms in the camping ground at Banka Banka and had quite an alcoholic evening around the campfire feeling happy with life.
We all live on a sphere, rotating on an axis as it spins around a star. This gives us the different climate zones, and it gives some zones seasons. Clement and I are cycling away from the equator, leaving the tropics, and heading to Adelaide – now in the middle of winter. With every day and with every pedal stroke the heat ebbs away – its an amazing transformation.
Stuart Highway
The morning was chilly, and beautiful as we cycled through the scrub and the sky changed from black, through the deepest shades of purple, to its bright daylight hue. We also saw a landscape transition – quite abruptly – from savannah trees and dry grass to short scrubby plants. Distances feel even greater, and objects on the horizon that seem so close are well over 10km away – and take forever to reach.
There are reports of more cyclists on the road. Today we passed 2 Americans on reclining bikes, more cyclists are to be met ahead.
American cyclists
Our morning was spent covering 100km to Elliott – everyone told us to leave it as soon as possible. Well, it was our water and midday stop, and we stayed there for ages. Three hours later after a big feed, some phone calls and chats with backpackers, we headed off into the late afternoon and evening to camp in the absolute middle of nowhere – a place with a perfect view over the myriad of stars.
Evening tree
I love to have a beer with Clement,
I love to have a beer with Clem,
We drink in moderation,
And we never ever ever get rolling drunk.. (just a bit tipsy)
The optimal formula – sunrise start, 90km and then lunchtime beer on an empty stomach in the Daly Waters pub.
Lunch time at the Daly Waters pub
In the morning there is not much wind, and it is lovely and cool. The 90km rolled past all the way to the famous pub in Daly Waters – a few houses in the middle of nowhere.
After the solitary beer I fell asleep, and, on waking, (a little bit too) merrily ate my lunch, and three hours later, we eased back onto the bikes.
Just near the pub is the Stuart tree – John Macdowal Stuart engraved an S on it when he passed in 1857. I’m blown if I can see the S. Maybe it’s a scam..
The Stuart tree
We had left it a bit late to ride the remaining 55km to the next water stop, so we just went, hardly stopping, and arrived in the twilight.
‘I would fight to protect my country and my family,’ he said – the 65 year-old hippy with his feet up drinking beer out the front of the country pub.
‘You guys are from Europe – it’s going to shit. You should be there working for your country. Paying taxes and working hard.’
Our mate was working hard cleaning the toilet once a day in the Larrimah pub.
Larrimah hotel
‘I’m not from Australia,’ he said. ‘I’m from..’
‘New Zealand,’ I interjected.
He seemed disappointed. ‘Yes.’
We heard all about Kiwi (aka Kevin). Every detail. He didn’t let us say much, though. He still thinks I am from France.
Today was planned to be a day eating kilometres. Early in the morning and late in the evening the wind is weak, and we can make some ground without sweating much. A lunch-time dip in the Mataranka spring pool was great before another long grind against the wind to Larrimah.
Bitter springs
Stuart Highway
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