Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


The world is a different place when you are well. The climbs are not long, the heat is not stifling, and the views are lovely. I skirted the Toktogul lake from on high, admiring its blue waters with a backdrop of rugged, dry, chalky mountains.

Toktogul lake

Toktogul lake

As Will had warned me, the road was not flat. I’m not sure why, but the road constantly went into the hills behind the lake, rising and falling, but affording beautiful views. By myself, I went at my own speed, and started at my own time – 6am. I have confirmed that I am a morning person. ☺

Morning

Morning


Will gets his nourishment from chocolate, chips and energy drinks. Oh. And eggs. Fruit is a big no-no, and most other healthy things. But I am the one with diahorrea – again. I have lost all shame. Emergency toilet stops on the side of the road with no place to hide from the traffic – no worries. I can shit anywhere – and do.

The view over the dam

The view over the dam

Today was up-down-up-down-up-down-up-down. We climbed above the dam wall, and then skirted the dam between 100 and 200m above the water. All in the blazing sun. It was beautiful, but, feeling sick, it seemed relentless – every 12% climb followed by a 12% drop.

Roadside restaurants popped up at 17km and then again at 55km. With no shade, we pushed on until about 4 to the one at 55km, at which point I flopped into the sofa, took some antibiotics, slept, and visited the toilet.

View from the toilet

View from the toilet

Tomorrow is another rest day. Kim and Will left – being on a tight schedule, but not before demolishing 8 eggs each.

8 eggs each

8 eggs each


At altitude I lost my appetite. Today I lost my appetite due to the heat. The contrast in climate is spectacular. Today was back to the ritual of having a 3 hour afternoon sleep. For the heat, and relief from the boredom of the straight road through hot farmland.

Afternoon sleep

Afternoon sleep

We cycled through melon land today. Everyone was selling watermelons, and some were also selling rock melons. Often there were stretches of road with sellers on both sides, sleeping on couch sofas unter the trees or under little verandah lean-tos.

We are now in the mountains again – at least there are mountains around us, and we will climb slowly now following the valley. I’m looking forward to gaining some altitude and losing some heat.


‘On top of the price of the room you will have to pay for the shower.’
That was OK.
‘Oh. And it costs extra to store the bikes.’
This was after we had unpacked and already agreed on the price.
We left, and now find ourself sleeping on a couch outside in an expensive holiday resort for rich Russians. The universe provided a strange place to sleep tonight.

Sunset

Sunset

Will and Kim had left Osh a day earlier, and stayed overnight 55km from Osh. I thought I could try to catch them – I like cycling with them. The weather was fine for that, and the scenery was boring. Endless fields and farms. I put my head down and cycled. 130km out of Osh I caught them. We can now cycle together to Bishkek.

Watermelons

Watermelons


Last night I visited the toilet (different rocks near the tent) five times. Today was a blur – feeling awful, struggling up a steep 800m climb, regularly diving into the bushes on the side of the road for a shit. Exhausted, I collapsed into the sofa at the guesthouse in Osh. Now I can take the antibiotics.

Looking down the high pass

Looking down the high pass

I need a break. Osh – the 2nd biggest city in Kyrgyzstan seemed like a good place to have it. And, at about 1000m altitude, its just a short ride downhill. This morning I didn’t feel well, but, I could surely manage the last pass before Osh, and then roll down the hill. I didn’t want a rest day in a tent with nothing nice to eat. Checking the information on the antibiotic pills, I discovered that they make you very light sensitive. Ah! That’s why I got burnt in Uzbekistan! Today would have to be ridden without antibiotics.

Now at lower altitudes, it is hotter. And the pass before Osh is a monster climb (on an excellent road) up about 800m (very steep). Well, that completely took it out of me, and at the top I was a dribbling mess. There was a restaurant at the top (a luxury) with meat, bread and tea on offer. I couldn’t stomach that, and so just had a few sips of tea.

Already 16:00, we sprinted the last 60km downhill into Osh. Thankfully there was little headwind today, and we were able to make haste. Two or three toilet stops, some stomach pills, and some volcanic ash powder later, we arrived, where I took a luxury single room, took my antibiotics, and went to bed.


Today was sheep migration day. Herded by shepherds on horses, the wall of sheep advanced up the valley. And we advanced down the valley. Down and down several climate zones into a different temperate – and green – world.

The road to Osh

The road to Osh

Kyrgyzstan is a different world. Green, steep slopes with horses grazing. The mountains, with rocky outcrops, reminded me of the Dolomites in Italy rather than the barren, windswept plains of the Pamir Plateau. Everywhere there were yurts, and people with horses and sheep. On the side of the road were little boys selling fermented mare’s milk. For the record, it is not my taste..

Fermented mare's milk

Fermented mare’s milk

Krygyzstan feels wealthier and more western. There are more (modern) cars and the road surface is immaculate. We saw road signs indicating where roads go, including distances. This is a rare thing in central Asia. There were marked picnic spots on the side of the road, and accurate ascent and descent signs. Unfortunately, the headwind has been imported over from Tajikistan which slowed an otherwise fabulous descent from the cold, windswept high mountain plateau (over 4000m) to our end destination (tomorrow) of Osh (around 1000m).

Nice road surface

Nice road surface

We have a lovely little camp spot next to the raging river. Tomorrow on to Osh.


The weather threw everything at us as we left the roof of the world. Our headwind remained. It snowed over the pass on the border with Kyrgyzstan, and pissed down as we descended. Then the sun broke, the tailwind was rolled out, and we crossed the most spectacular valley flanked with massive snowy peaks. Welcome to Kyrgyzstan.

Looking back at the Pamirs

Looking back at the Pamirs

One of my favourite videos is ‘The Road to Karakol’. A mountaineer cycles around Kyrgyzstan, climbing peaks, and nearly dying as he has to cross a raging river. The video is funny, the scenery is spectacular, and it gets me emotional whenever I see it. In one scene, the cyclist has a race with a little boy on a horse. Today I saw that little boy on a horse, shepherding his sheep. Cycling down across a wide valley with spectacular mountains as a backdrop, I couldn’t help but think about the film. I am here in Kyrgyzstan, in the ‘Switzerland of Central Asia’.

Horseboy

Horseboy

The descent was muddy and wet.

Precarious dunny

Precarious dunny

Mixing of colours

Mixing of colours

The little town of Sarytash felt like a small step back to civilization. There were shops with things to buy, and it all felt a bit wealthier. Still no showers, though.

Sarytash

Sarytash


We sat huddled in the metre high drainage pipe under the road. Outside it was howling a sandy gale in the moon landscape, and dark clouds were forming and swirling around the snowy peaks. Cycling downhill at 6 km/h against the wind with nowhere to hide, camping was looking problematic. ‘Onwards,’ we decided. There must be somewhere better than this.

Our hideout from the wind

Our hideout from the wind

After our monster effort yesterday, we slept in, and then went on a tour through the ‘markets’ of the town. Our homestay host took us to the markets, which were all in people’s homes. No chocolates were on offer to replace what I threw down the hatch yesterday in our evening slog. Like Old Mother Hubbard, the cupboards were bare. Just lollies and biscuits.

The grocery shop

The grocery shop

And then the cabbage truck drove into town. Hurray, hurray, oh glorious day! They even had a few apricots!

The cabbage truck

The cabbage truck

There was a blue hole in the clouded sky above the beautiful Karakul lake. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the lake created its own sunny weather. Skirting the lake, it seemed the wind always blew away from the lake – which lead to the theory of us having a tailwind going over the pass. This theory proved to be incorrect.

The long road out of Karakul

The long road out of Karakul

Lake Karakul

Lake Karakul

The wind was the strongest I have experienced – and it was a headwind. Scaling the steep bits of the pass involved 10 pedal strokes followed by a minute regaining breath. Descending required pedalling to move forward, and the speed rarely passed 10 km/h. After shivering in the drainage pipe, we realised we needed to continue to keep warm. We are now camping on the sand behind a mound that seems, somehow, to deflect most of the wind. It is going to be cold tonight.

Our moonscape camping spot

Our moonscape camping spot


A grunt to make it up the 3 metre sandy verge from the parallel road (with fewer corrigations) to the main road. At 4200m I fail, slide off my bike, and stand there heaving in the thin air.

The view looking back from the pass

The view looking back from the pass

Today was a 4655m pass, bone shaking corrigations, and hurricane headwinds that made the descent on good road surface a crawl to the town that never drew nearer. Exhausted, I collapsed to sleep with the dinner still in front of me.

We were saved from the first snow flurry ascending the pass by a kind family just after the sign for the pass summit (5km from the top).

At the base of the pass

At the base of the pass

Father and kids

Father and kids

Little boy

Little boy

The steep ascent to the pass was a 3 km/h affair with amazing views.

View northwards from the Akbaital Pass

View northwards from the Akbaital Pass

Towards Karakul

Towards Karakul

The next threatening weather descended as we were pummelled by the corrugations and the headwind.

Cold wind

Cold wind

Corrugations

Corrugations

We decided to push on to the only town in the area – Karakul. Little did we know the wind would get stronger, and the town, always visible in the distance, seemed to stay the same distance away for 20 km. The sun set over the beautiful Karakul lake as we pushed on to the town.

The road to Karakul

The road to Karakul

The road to Karakul

The road to Karakul


The highest pass of the Pamir Highway is near, and today we put ourselves near its base. A big headwind and the altitude made it a breathtaking affair. Cycling with Mark, Kim and Will, we climbed to a lovely spot at 4100m, ready for an assault on the pass tomorrow.

Exhausted

Exhausted

We are cycling along the base of old glacial valleys. Relatively flat and wide, snowy mountains rise on both sides. And on one side is a fence. A fence marking only 15km to China. Even a watchtower ensuring that one does not penetrate to within 15km of China without a visa.

The 15km from China fence

The 15km from China fence

A little snow storm with strong winds rolled over us just after we set up camp. This meant we all retired into our tents and slept from 1700 until 1830. Then dinner and an early night. We need all the energy we can muster for tomorrow.

Our campsite

Our campsite