Posts Tagged ‘Toktogul’


When the climb is over 2200m (about the height of Mt Kosiosko – the highest mountain in Australia), it takes some time. Gastroniza sleeps, bee stings, icy river swims, watching milk being separated. And the ever uphill crawl. Still not at the summit yet.

Honey

Honey

Still hot for the most part (until I reached high enough), the day was punctuated by stops at some of the many many restaurants, usually followed by a sleep. I’m still never hungry, but I know I must eat. I force things down, and hope the lack of appetite is due to the heat.

When I wasn’t passing a restaurant, I was passing people selling honey. And where there’s honey, there are bees. One stung me – my first ever bee sting. For a few minutes I was worrying – what if I am allergic. It turns out I am spectacularly not allergic to bee stings.

Bee sting

Bee sting

As I got higher, the number of yurts increased. As the sun was getting lower, I was looking for a nice spot to set up my tent – all the nice spots are taken up by yurts.. ☺ So I asked if I could camp near a yurt on the river. Of course. I even got shown how to separate milk into cream and the rest. And some kymys – fermented mare’s milk.


The world is a different place when you are well. The climbs are not long, the heat is not stifling, and the views are lovely. I skirted the Toktogul lake from on high, admiring its blue waters with a backdrop of rugged, dry, chalky mountains.

Toktogul lake

Toktogul lake

As Will had warned me, the road was not flat. I’m not sure why, but the road constantly went into the hills behind the lake, rising and falling, but affording beautiful views. By myself, I went at my own speed, and started at my own time – 6am. I have confirmed that I am a morning person. ☺

Morning

Morning