Posts Tagged ‘Kizil Korgon’


Last night I visited the toilet (different rocks near the tent) five times. Today was a blur – feeling awful, struggling up a steep 800m climb, regularly diving into the bushes on the side of the road for a shit. Exhausted, I collapsed into the sofa at the guesthouse in Osh. Now I can take the antibiotics.

Looking down the high pass

Looking down the high pass

I need a break. Osh – the 2nd biggest city in Kyrgyzstan seemed like a good place to have it. And, at about 1000m altitude, its just a short ride downhill. This morning I didn’t feel well, but, I could surely manage the last pass before Osh, and then roll down the hill. I didn’t want a rest day in a tent with nothing nice to eat. Checking the information on the antibiotic pills, I discovered that they make you very light sensitive. Ah! That’s why I got burnt in Uzbekistan! Today would have to be ridden without antibiotics.

Now at lower altitudes, it is hotter. And the pass before Osh is a monster climb (on an excellent road) up about 800m (very steep). Well, that completely took it out of me, and at the top I was a dribbling mess. There was a restaurant at the top (a luxury) with meat, bread and tea on offer. I couldn’t stomach that, and so just had a few sips of tea.

Already 16:00, we sprinted the last 60km downhill into Osh. Thankfully there was little headwind today, and we were able to make haste. Two or three toilet stops, some stomach pills, and some volcanic ash powder later, we arrived, where I took a luxury single room, took my antibiotics, and went to bed.


Today was sheep migration day. Herded by shepherds on horses, the wall of sheep advanced up the valley. And we advanced down the valley. Down and down several climate zones into a different temperate – and green – world.

The road to Osh

The road to Osh

Kyrgyzstan is a different world. Green, steep slopes with horses grazing. The mountains, with rocky outcrops, reminded me of the Dolomites in Italy rather than the barren, windswept plains of the Pamir Plateau. Everywhere there were yurts, and people with horses and sheep. On the side of the road were little boys selling fermented mare’s milk. For the record, it is not my taste..

Fermented mare's milk

Fermented mare’s milk

Krygyzstan feels wealthier and more western. There are more (modern) cars and the road surface is immaculate. We saw road signs indicating where roads go, including distances. This is a rare thing in central Asia. There were marked picnic spots on the side of the road, and accurate ascent and descent signs. Unfortunately, the headwind has been imported over from Tajikistan which slowed an otherwise fabulous descent from the cold, windswept high mountain plateau (over 4000m) to our end destination (tomorrow) of Osh (around 1000m).

Nice road surface

Nice road surface

We have a lovely little camp spot next to the raging river. Tomorrow on to Osh.