Posts Tagged ‘Murghab’


The highest pass of the Pamir Highway is near, and today we put ourselves near its base. A big headwind and the altitude made it a breathtaking affair. Cycling with Mark, Kim and Will, we climbed to a lovely spot at 4100m, ready for an assault on the pass tomorrow.

Exhausted

Exhausted

We are cycling along the base of old glacial valleys. Relatively flat and wide, snowy mountains rise on both sides. And on one side is a fence. A fence marking only 15km to China. Even a watchtower ensuring that one does not penetrate to within 15km of China without a visa.

The 15km from China fence

The 15km from China fence

A little snow storm with strong winds rolled over us just after we set up camp. This meant we all retired into our tents and slept from 1700 until 1830. Then dinner and an early night. We need all the energy we can muster for tomorrow.

Our campsite

Our campsite


The plain was wide – sometimes grassy, sometimes just rock and sand. On both sides were rocky, snow-capped mountains. The sky was blue with beautiful white clouds. And the wind was at our back. Every bend in the road opened up a new stunning vista. I cycled the most beautiful road of my life with three others, and my, we had a day to remember.

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

We were prepared for the lonely road – no human life and no water for 100km to Murghab. Every now and then we spotted a lonesome yurt off the road and away from the bustle of the thoroughfare. This place is remote – a desert highland tucked away in a lost corner of central Asia. This is part of the appeal. So far from anywhere. Sitting in the little hut last night with the wind whistling outside, warmth radiating from the wood stove, one is at peace with the universe. On the Pamir Plateau, I am at peace with the universe, and at peace with myself.

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

Murghab

Murghab