Posts Tagged ‘Normanton’


The sunsets in Croydon (in Far North Queensland) are famous. When my friend moved there, I had to visit – but, of course, by bicycle. I had a smörgåsbord of sunsets, but also waterfalls and long outback roads as I cycled from the tropical eastern coast to the mangroves on the Gulf of Carpentaria.

I wasn’t the only one chasing sunsets. I met a German walking across the world. He is just finishing a circle around Australia after spending the pandemic here. I last cycled past him crossing Khardung La – the highest motorable road in the world in the Himalayas. In Croydon I ran into the cyclists doing the annual Cairns to Karumba charity cycle. They were going out as I was going home.

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Walking from Germany

For such a short trip it had many distinctive parts, making the holiday experience feel longer and more refreshing.

Palm studded sandy beaches at Palm Cove and Turtle Cove

Sunrise at Turtle Cove

Crater lakes and raging waterfalls on the Atherton Tablelands

Ellinjaa Falls

Hot springs and lava tubes on the savannah

Undara Lava Tubes

Sunsets in Croydon

Sunset at Croydon

Sunset at Croydon

Mangrove beaches and offshore sand banks at Karumba

Mangrove beach at Karumba

Mangrove beach at Karumba

Bird-filled sandy flats at Normanton

Mutton Hole Wetlands

Mutton Hole Wetlands

Many thanks to John Thompson and the Cairns Cycling Group Rides Facebook Group for the tips, especially how to get from the coast to the Tablelands without becoming roadkill (from windy, steep, narrow roads). Quaid Road is the go! Thanks to Elizabeth in Croydon for the motivation to discover this part of Australia!


The grass was crackeling as the smoke billowed up and was blown away by the wind. The eagles and hawks circled and dived in a mad feeding frenzy. They were feeding on grasshoppers fleeing the flames. It felt like a special moment in this beautiful, barren landscape.

The birds circled in a feeding frenzy

Looking at the landscape on Google Maps gets me excited. White plains with fingers of green in a fractal pattern as the rivers meander to the sea. I asked around how to get to this landscape. Many roads were blocked, but I could go to the Mutton Hole Wetlands. I’m glad I did.

Mutton Hole Wetlands
Mutton Hole Wetlands

It is a maze of tracks criss-crossing the landscape. Some ended in dead ends. Some ended at water that I didn’t dare to explore (because of crocs).

Dotted across the horizon were burns with smoke billowing out. I finally went to explore, and was amazed by the feeding spectacle.

Feeding frenzy

The sandy track followed the beach on the other side of a sandhill. I was exploring in the dark as the sun was just becoming a pink glow on the horizon. The sea began to be studded with little mangrove bushes. They became more dense. Finally they opened out into a mangrove swamp the other side of the beach. Dead trees stood high in the mud, with birds perched on their tips. It was a beautiful sight. Silence broken by bird calls. And this was all for me.

The mangrove beach
The mangrove beach
The mangrove beach

This beautiful place I visited for two sunrises. It was my favourite, secret place. On the second morning I made a pire from the dead wood.

My very own pire

My second sunset at Karumba was on a sand bar 7km out to see. A boat took me and the other visitors out to have a meal and drinks. It was a beautiful, surreal place.

Arrival at the sand bank
7km off shore on the sand bank
The sun sets
The sun sets
Our return ride arrives

All of this was on my day off pottering around Karumba. The return trip to Normanton was a bit of a slog. I have grown accustomed to a tailwind. Heading east, my friend became my enemy, and I had to remember how it is slowly counting down the kms into the wind. Tomorrow is another rest day in Normanton.

 


It’s the end of the road. The road from Cairns has led here, and has now stopped. The land ends at this remote ‘Outback by the Sea’ town. People sip their drinks under the palm trees watching the sun turn to orange and then red over the sea, the mangroves and the emerging sand bars. The end of the world vibe. I love it.

Sunset at Karumba

The road here saw the vegetation slowly disappear as I pedalled through low grasslands and then salt pans.

50km to Karumba
The final approach

And then the road rises and I pop out to a view of the sea.

The Gulf of Carpentaria

The cycling day was short, but my body decided it was time to be lazy. And what a chill place to be lazy.

Sunset at Karumba
Sunset at Karumba

“They sun themselves on the salt flats. Massive things. As big as the statue. If you stay more than 50m away you’ll be fine. And stay away from the water.” I contemplate my stay in croc territory as I watch the sunset from the bridge over the Norman River. I’m excited.

Life size, so they say

Today was a perfect cycling day. An ever so gradual slope downwards and a handy tailwind. I left at 5:15am in the dark and glided along through the dark, watching the sky turn pink and then orange before the direct sunbeams poked out between the trees.

Early morning on the road

The Gulflander train stops at Blackbull siding at 10:15am on Thursdays. I was there at 9 for a snack and photos.

Blackbull Siding
Blackbull Siding

I waited for the train 105km from Croydon, waving as it passed.

A snack stop at Leichardt Lake before on to the big smoke – Normanton.

Leichardt Lake
Leichardt Lake
The famous Purple Pub in Normanton

Out of Normanton is a pedestrian bridge over the Norman River. Its quite an impressive waterway. I spent an hour looking for crocs and watching the sky turn amazing colours.

The GoPro is capturing the sunset
Norman River at sunset
Norman River at sunset