Posts Tagged ‘Karumba’


The sunsets in Croydon (in Far North Queensland) are famous. When my friend moved there, I had to visit – but, of course, by bicycle. I had a smörgåsbord of sunsets, but also waterfalls and long outback roads as I cycled from the tropical eastern coast to the mangroves on the Gulf of Carpentaria.

I wasn’t the only one chasing sunsets. I met a German walking across the world. He is just finishing a circle around Australia after spending the pandemic here. I last cycled past him crossing Khardung La – the highest motorable road in the world in the Himalayas. In Croydon I ran into the cyclists doing the annual Cairns to Karumba charity cycle. They were going out as I was going home.

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Walking from Germany

For such a short trip it had many distinctive parts, making the holiday experience feel longer and more refreshing.

Palm studded sandy beaches at Palm Cove and Turtle Cove

Sunrise at Turtle Cove

Crater lakes and raging waterfalls on the Atherton Tablelands

Ellinjaa Falls

Hot springs and lava tubes on the savannah

Undara Lava Tubes

Sunsets in Croydon

Sunset at Croydon

Sunset at Croydon

Mangrove beaches and offshore sand banks at Karumba

Mangrove beach at Karumba

Mangrove beach at Karumba

Bird-filled sandy flats at Normanton

Mutton Hole Wetlands

Mutton Hole Wetlands

Many thanks to John Thompson and the Cairns Cycling Group Rides Facebook Group for the tips, especially how to get from the coast to the Tablelands without becoming roadkill (from windy, steep, narrow roads). Quaid Road is the go! Thanks to Elizabeth in Croydon for the motivation to discover this part of Australia!


The sandy track followed the beach on the other side of a sandhill. I was exploring in the dark as the sun was just becoming a pink glow on the horizon. The sea began to be studded with little mangrove bushes. They became more dense. Finally they opened out into a mangrove swamp the other side of the beach. Dead trees stood high in the mud, with birds perched on their tips. It was a beautiful sight. Silence broken by bird calls. And this was all for me.

The mangrove beach
The mangrove beach
The mangrove beach

This beautiful place I visited for two sunrises. It was my favourite, secret place. On the second morning I made a pire from the dead wood.

My very own pire

My second sunset at Karumba was on a sand bar 7km out to see. A boat took me and the other visitors out to have a meal and drinks. It was a beautiful, surreal place.

Arrival at the sand bank
7km off shore on the sand bank
The sun sets
The sun sets
Our return ride arrives

All of this was on my day off pottering around Karumba. The return trip to Normanton was a bit of a slog. I have grown accustomed to a tailwind. Heading east, my friend became my enemy, and I had to remember how it is slowly counting down the kms into the wind. Tomorrow is another rest day in Normanton.

 


It’s the end of the road. The road from Cairns has led here, and has now stopped. The land ends at this remote ‘Outback by the Sea’ town. People sip their drinks under the palm trees watching the sun turn to orange and then red over the sea, the mangroves and the emerging sand bars. The end of the world vibe. I love it.

Sunset at Karumba

The road here saw the vegetation slowly disappear as I pedalled through low grasslands and then salt pans.

50km to Karumba
The final approach

And then the road rises and I pop out to a view of the sea.

The Gulf of Carpentaria

The cycling day was short, but my body decided it was time to be lazy. And what a chill place to be lazy.

Sunset at Karumba
Sunset at Karumba