Rain. Mist. Not a day for Passo dell Stelvio. Instead, I rolled down into Bormio at the base of Passo del Stelvio all ready for the ascent tomorrow in the (predicted) sunshine.
Passo del Foscagno
Tomorrow (Thursday) is predicted to be better weather. Thursday and Friday will be good on Passo dell Stelvio, and then it will be crap as far into the future as we can see. Winter is coming, and those may be the last two nice days in the Alps. Today was a day to prepare for the big climb tomorrow. A short day to the base of the pass. As it turned out, it didn’t rain too much, but, you never know in advance.
All ready for the rain.
Climbing in the mist
Between me and Bormio is Passo del Foscagno (2291m). As Livigno is already quite high, this was not much of a climb. But, man, what a descent. 16km of down and down and down. The descent never seemed to end. Bormio is at 1225m.
Passo del Foscagno
Bormio has thermal baths. Due to a strange sequence of events, I found myself walking on a main road in the rain to some baths about 2km out of the town centre. I aborted this attempt in the name of safety, and instead watched the sunset from my hotel room balcony.
My heart is thumping, my panting is almost all I can hear. Through the adrenalin rush I can hear and observe only one sound. There is no brain capacity for more. The jingling of cow bells. The gush of water. The sprinkle of rain. Or pure silence in the beautiful mountains. The Drahtesel is conquering the Alps.
Looking down from the Albula Pass
Today I was greeted by lots of lovely people, all wishing me well on my route. At the top of the Albula Pass, on a hiking road to Zernez, on the bus (!) to Livigno, in the hotel and more.
Many look at my bike, trying to find the electric battery. So many people use them around here. I don’t know how easy it would be to charge such a battery in Tajikistan on the Pamir Highway. One would need a mother of a solar panel. 🙂
I hereby name my bike ‘Drahtesel’. Such a cool name, first used by Viktoria Schulte from the Kölnische Rundschau. While crawling up the mountain, I found myself talking to Drahtesel. For me it signifies a heavy but sturdy beast, that, slowly but surely, scales anything. We’re getting there Drahtesel! You’re doing well, Drahtesel. Drahtesel scaled his first pass in the Alps today – the Albula Pass (2315m).
Albula Pass
Sunrise in Bergün before the Albula Pass
Looking up at the Albula Pass
Then Drahtesel flanked the side of the valley in the forest, following a river down to Zernez. Although the river was flowing in my direction (I checked that), it was a steep up and down affair on gravel roads. The group of swiss walkers I met there made my day. What a lovely bunch. They told me all about the railway that was built there, and how the bridge collapsed 100 years ago and killed lots of workers.
The Swiss walkers
The railway bridge
Mountain view
My planned route was a turnoff from the road leading to the Ofenpass. Oops. I was wondering how the road was going to magically pass into Italy. There were no obvious side rivers. Just massive mountains everywhere. Well, a bike-free tunnel with a bike shuttle bus. My first cheat of the trip (only 3km – I don’t feel too bad about that).. 🙂
The road through to Italy
And then ‘Hello Italia’. My home for the coming week or two.
Out of the Rhein Valley and into mountains. Some beautiful views high above the river, and a big grunt to climb up to Bergün at the end. All in the dazzling sun.
Warnings of climbs were welcome. They mean amazing views in the peace and quiet in the forest overlooking the river and freeway.
I followed the Swiss Veloland Route 6 which switched from running high above the river to skirting the edge of the river. The views kept on coming and I laughed with joy around every corner as a new vista revealed itself.
I am feeling stronger and stronger. Pacing myself I can lug my 50kg ‘Drahtesel’ up all the climbs I have met thus far. It’s a great feeling. I’m an exercise addict and there’s nothing better than working towards this big challenge in this spectacular landscape.
Here are some of the views.
Bergün is a beautiful mountain village part of the way up the Albulapass.
Four countries, mist, then bright warm sun. And a tail wind surrounded by spectacular mountains. Ah! The alps!
Last night I discovered it was a longer ride to my warm showers host in Chur than I thought. Early to bed and early to rise. Healthy, wealthy and wise? Well, healthy, and very very happy!
Today saw me cycle through 4 countries.
The Bodensee was misty and was mostly one long settlement. It was flat and meant that fast cycling was called for.
When I left the Bodensee, the sun came out, a wind started blowing in my back, and the mountains rolled past me.
Did you know they grow grapes in Switzerland?
And some more nice views..
I was fascinated by Lichtenstein. How did such a small country become established? Cycling past and through it is interesting. You see the natural borders which gave rise to the country. The Rhein River, and a rocky cliff face that goes all the way to the river. The high mountains at the back make an unpassable barrier.
Thanks Suzanne for letting me stay over in Chur. She has travelled everywhere – always doing adventurous things. When looking at my route through the alps – ah – that is beautiful. And that. And that. Her stories and passion for her country make me all the more excited. Maybe we will meet sonewhere. In Georgia? In Armenia? In Iran?
Goodbye Inge, Stefan, Jan and Jonas in Meßstetten. It was great to see you again. The mist in the Schwäbischen Alb dissolved as Stefan and I rolled downhill to the Danube valley, and further across green fields and forests, following little streams on their way down to the Bodensee at Konstanz. A beautiful sunny cycling day!
Stefan in the Schwäbischen Alb
The bike paths in the hills are beautiful. They cross the rivers from one side of the valley to the other. They follow streams, rail lines, and sometimes the main roads – but more often than not they are away from everything, leaving the cyclist to enjoy the nature of an imposing valley, an open rolling field, or a cool shady forest. It is not all easy riding. Even following streams down, there are regular climbs as the path crosses the valley from left to right.
Cycling along a beautiful stream
A rolling field
On the Bodensee it is flat, and the cycling masses are present. The at one with nature feeling is gone, but, it is pleasant cycling without any major hills, and the Bodensee is pretty. We also passed some nice sunflower fields.
Bodensee
Sunflower fields
Thanks, Stefan, for accompanying me. We bade farewell at the market square in Konstanz. Tomorrow I continue alone.
Wow, wow, wow! Amazing weather along one of the most beautiful routes I have ever cycled. The Danube between Tuttlingen and Sigmaringen is incredible. And then, the route up from Sigmaringen to Albstadt and Meßstetten – cycling through my own personal wooded valley in the evening light. It was hard work, though! 🙂
The Danube
Thanks Emil from 2radforum.de for the tip. The Donau is one of the hidden pearls of Germany. From Tuttlingen the river winds its way through a narrow valley with amazing cliff faces flanking each side. The bike path runs along the valley away from the road and train, through the sun and shady woods. Around each curve a new vista opens out. In several places there were castles perched on the top of a cliff overlooking the valley.
The morning mist on the way to Tuttlingen
The Danube valley
Castle perched on a hill
Castle perched on a cliff face
After leaving the Danube at Sigmaringen, I climbed and climbed and climbed to Meßstetten. The valley I cycled up was amazing, lit with the soft evening light.
Climbing to Albstadt
I arrived in the dark. It was a bigger climb than I had anticipated. Hello Inge! It´s been 15 years!
A day extra before visiting friends in Meßstetten. I’m really in purple cow Milka territory now. Pine covered steep hills, and green fields. I can’t stop thinking of the alps in Switzerland. Due to a miscalculation, I find myself in a camping ground just 20km from Meßstetten. My plan of cycling a bit along the Danube before Meßstetten will be challenging.
In the forest before Tübingen
The friend I am visiting in Meßstetten will only be there on Friday evening, so I have an day to kill. Emil from http://www.2radforum.de suggested I cycle along the Danube and see the beautiful caves and cliffs. Based on this, I planned to cycle along the Neckar to the source, and tomorrow, skip over the source of the Danube, and follow it to Sigmaringen. So, today: first to Tübingen (again) through the beautiful forest.
Bebenhausen
The Neckar is long, and it winds back and forth.
Path along the Neckar
The Neckar valley is quite deep
In Sulz I investigated possible destinations for today. I noted that there was no way I was going to reach the source of the Neckar today. I also noted there are no camping grounds after Sulz along the Neckar. So… I cut cross country, to a camping ground just 20km from Meßstetten. I’m not sure what I will do tomorrow. I need to end in Meßstetten. Any suggestions?
Dirk, the bringer of good weather, came from Bonn and blessed us with sun today. My ‘rest day’ was a gentle meander downhill with Dirk to Tübingen through a beautiful forest. The rain started the moment Dirk got on the train home. I hope he joins me again.. 🙂
Kloster Bebenhausen
Tomorrow my trip continues with luggage. Today was with a naked bike to the castle at Herrenberg, and then through the forest to Tübingen. I found it hard to believe that we were high enough to continue downhill all the way to Tübingen. It was wonderful, rolling through the peaceful and sunny forest. Birds were circling above, and I saw a fox bound away into the forest. We also passed a monastery just before Tübingen.
Herrenberg
Dirk and me in the forest
Dirk in the forest
In the forest
My precious at the monastery
I’m glad that I can see one of my best friends, Cristina, before I leave Europe. She has just arrived in Ehningen after a business trip. What a good reason to have a rest day today!
Also, thanks Radwelt Ehningen for helping me out with a broken screw on my Ortlieb pannier!
The long way from A to B is best. I am not used to taking time on bike trips, and am slowly learning this new art. On the wide curves of the Neckar River are the most amazing vineyard views. And, as the day proceeded, the sun emerged, bathing them in a beautiful light.
Grapes on the Neckar
The day started grey, cold and damp. Marius joined me for the first kilometres. It was great feeling his excitement about his upcoming world bike trip. I was there 6 months ago. It’s hard to wait.
Marius
But, great things are given to those that wait. In the past I would have never followed a windy river, but rather cut off the curves. These wide curves are where the wine is grown. These wide curves were the highlight of the day. The great panorama opens out before the cyclist as he slowly passes around the bends. Magic.
Vineyard on the Neckar
Vineyard on the Neckar
Me in the Neckar
The weather was perfect in Stuttgart.
Stuttgart
And the weather at Philips was great too. I’m still a Philips employee – until the end of September. Hello Philips in Böblingen. 🙂
After a dry start crossing rolling fields, the heavens tried to outdo their effort from yesterday regarding downpours – and they succeeded. Marius – my warm shower host – is preparing for a world cycle trip. I love the twinkle in his eyes. We are both about to experience it. Living on the road.
Rolling fields on the way to Heilbronn
I am toasty warm, writing this blog in front of a wood fire in Heilbronn. Thanks Marius and his parents for their wonderful hospitality. This is the first fire of the trip. The weather has got colder, and has remained grey. Heidelberg was grey.
Heidelberg
Heilbronn was grey.
Me in Heilbronn
And then Heilbronn was wet. Really wet.
Torrential downpour in Heilbronn
Marius is leaving for his world trip in February. I know how excited he is feeling, and how impatient he is. I was there a few months ago. His eyes are shining, and he is experiencing the world at every moment. Good luck to you, Marius. It will be the trip of a lifetime!