Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


I enjoyed today. The islands are beautiful. Pag island is bleak. The mountains on the mainland loom over the coast shrouded in cloud. And it bucketed down.

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I made it to the ferry! I feel happy moving forward. The departure in the dark and the rumble of thunder waiting for the boat increased the excitement.

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A lunch break in Rab town.

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Just about to continue, a toilet break turned into a torrential downpour viewing. Drahtesel got a good clean.

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The rain stayed my friend for the rest of the day. Sometimes it abated and sometimes it poured down. At one point in the mountains, already wet, I stopped in a bus stop shelter.

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Enough rain. I stopped moderately early in Novalja on Pag island.

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My booking.com host didn’t show up and is apparently in Zagreb. I am now in a hostel with lovely friendly staff and am drinking a warm tea as my room is being prepared.They’re playing Seal ‘Crazy’. I like that song, and it goes with my mood. I’m warm and happy.

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Today didn’t go as it was supposed to. Suboptimal weather, suboptimal ferry timetables, and late ferries meaning I missed a connection. In summary, I am 20km from where I started today, and am trying to practise my life philosophy and am ‘letting it go’.

The late ferry from Merag to Valbiska

The late ferry from Merag to Valbiska

I left this morning in the dark. It had just stopped raining. I left not knowing where I would cycle to. I didn’t think I would end up where I am.

The weather

The weather

The weather forecast was crap (rain, thunderstorms), and so my plan of cycling further on Cres, catching the ferry from Mali Lošinj at the bottom of the island wasn’t looking very appealing. I wasn’t taking in much of the scenery as I cycled along. I had several options, and with each minute I changed my mind.
– Cycle to Rijeka and then down the coast. This is a very busy road, not recommended for cyclists.
– Catch the boat to Rab island. The boat leaves from Valbiska at 1820. I was at Valbiska before 9am. I didn’t want to wait all day for the boat, or cycle aimlessly around Krk island.
– Catch the boat to Cres, and cycle to the southern tip of the Cres island. The ‘ferry’ from Mali Lošinj only takes people and no bikes, I was told. So, cycling to the tip of the island meant also cycling back (which would take 2 days).
– Catch the ferry to Cres, cycle around Cres for the day, catch the same ferry back at 1730 in time for the 1820 ferry to Rab.

I almost cycled to Rijeka. Just minutes before the ferry left to Cres, I jumped on it. I love Cres island, and wanted to see more of it.

A philosophy of being happy is as follows: don’t get angry at what is – being angry doesn’t change anything. All you can control is your reaction to what is. The ferry times meant that I was going to lose today in terms of moving forward. My ferry back from Cres was delayed, and I missed my connection ferry to Rab. I am trying not to be angry, and am observing myself trying not to be angry. An interesting exercise. I find myself in a hotel room 2km from the ferry to Rab. Tomorrow is (unexpectedly) an early boat to Rab. I will be on that boat Inshallah.

I cycled to the lake in the middle of Cres island. It fascinated me – what is a big lake doing there in the middle of such a thin, mountainous island? It was hard to photograph due to the trees, but I had a go.

Lake in Cres island

Lake in Cres island

Despite being cloudy, it was warm cycling up all those hills. Here is today’s ‘hot and sweaty’ selfie. 🙂

Hot and sweaty

Hot and sweaty

Tomorrow Rab and Pag islands. I’ve heard they are beautiful! 🙂


Cres is a beautiful island! And my it’s hilly. Climbs under a clouded sky, and drops. From high high above the still blue water, the view back at the road traversed is spectacular.
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It was only to be a short ride to the ferry to Krk island to visit Annemieke – a Dutch friend of mine that has a house there. But I knew it would be tough.

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Spectacular views awaited.

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Note to self: Never assume anything about when a road will climb and when it will fall. The road to Merag – the boat to Krk island – caught me by surprise so many times. This time it must be downhill from here on. And then, yet again..

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It was good to see Annemieke and to have a lovely relaxing afternoon together in the sun.

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I lie on the grass overlooking the pebbly beach. I hear the sound of the waves lapping. The stars are out, after the fading of colours of the high rugged mountains opposite. I am wild camping on Cres island in Croatia. Stunning.

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Today I crossed the Istrian peninsula from one side to the other. Its bigger than it looks and hilly to boot. I cycled along quiet roads that meandered from one little town to the next. I passed fields, forests, grassy plains as I climbed up a bit, then drop a bit, then climb some more.

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I don’t know if they are glacial, but I passed two very steep grooves in the landscape. Rolling hillsides, then bang – a steep rut in the landscape. They were sweaty work climbing out of, but were very pretty.

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Along the bottom of the grooves were lovely flat valleys, that rose up steeply on the sides like a glacial u-valley.

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I had a ferry to catch at 16.30 to the island of Cres. I thought at first I could catch the earlier one at 13.30. Silly me. It is hot and steep. In the end, I pushed myself up the steep hills, dripping in sweat to make it in time.

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I asked around for a flat bit of ground to camp. They pointed me to the village beach. Not a bad spot for my first wild camp..

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Postscript: Its 4:30 am in my tent. I look into myself. No. I’m not scared. But I’m listening intently. I can only hear. All I see is the inside of the tent with my big pupiled eyes.
I recognise the lapping of the water. Sometimes a gurgle.
The water is quite relaxing. I can imagine it lapping on the pebbles and the rocks on the end on the beach.
Then a snap. I twig breaking in the steeply rising forest behind me. My ears perk up. Then another one. Snap. Then a small rumble as a slide of small rocks chatter down the slope.
Gurgle gurgle. Lap lap.
I start to doze.
Then with an automatic jolt of adrenalin I am brought to my senses by a gallop of something across the pebbly beach.
Gurgle gurgle. Lap  lap.
Snap.
Then something running around on the grass. A reindeer? I’ve no idea. About that size, I’d guess.
Wait. Just then I heard a bird sound together with the snap and rumble. A big bird?
Gurgle gurgle. Lap lap.
I think I know all the sounds. Time for sleep. I have a big hill to climb before the next ferry to krk.


Croatia is the country of smells. Intense, varied and beautiful. It started at the border. Croatia is the country of challenging cycle paths. I pushed my bike for the first time. And now, in October, it is the country of closed camping grounds. 🙂

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It was amazing. At the border the cycle path left the car road and rose into the hills. Then it started. The smells. Fragrances that could be used in saunas. Beautiful exotic plants that I don’t recognize. Then pine. Then fennel. Burning wood. Every 100m it changed – the smell.
At first I meandered along breathing in deeply. It was a dirt path but fine to cycle along.

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Then the rocks on the road got more numerous. Big rocks in ruts to be avoided, and small rocks that slip under the wheel. Try to accelerate on them and the wheel skids. And then it got steep. Drahtesel slid out from beneath me as I slid into a rut. Then uphill I had no chance. Drahesel was pushed just as some strollers walked past. My failure was witnessed. And this was on the official istria tourist cycle path. I’m not tough enough apparently. Once I saw the asphalt road, I stuck to it.

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Istria is clearly the tourist drag. Villages bursting with places to eat and places to stay. Lots of ‘apps’ – not for smart phones but for staying overnight. 🙂 And, of course, the villages are cute.

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I read a blog of a young cyclist that has cycled around the world. He listed some things that he learnt in his trip. He said how he learnt to sleep anywhere. A park, a field, a forest, wherever. I haven’t learnt that lesson yet. As it gets later in the afternoon I feel the stress increase. Where am I going to stay? Camping ground? If there’s none, a cheap hotel. I am now at the only open camping ground on the Istrian peninsula. Everything is closing or already closed. The day is approaching where I will sleep out there somewhere. It will be exciting and scary. And after a while, it’ll be nothing. But that day is in the future. Today I’m sitting in a restaurant with people who are staying in apps, drinking wine as they watch the sea lap on the shore.

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I don’t look like the other diners here. Hairy and unkept, with sharp tan lines. I am leaving civilization as the winter falls. I feel alive!

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White horses, science fiction underground river caverns, Trieste in sailing regatta fever, 50kg heave – no gym required, climb into Slovenia. All in beautiful sunshine. Thanks Marko for the tips!

Sunset in Koper

Sunset in Koper

A gushing river has etched out a massive cavern over millions of years. Perched on the side looking down, the river was far far below. The path I followed twisted and turned behind me, upwards to the silent cavern. Ahead was a bridge crossing the yawning depths, still far below the cavern roof. This gorge was massive. Without the man/woman-made path, lit up for my group, I would be in complete darkness. From above and below – rock. This gorge was underground.

The lit up path in the massive cavern

The lit up path in the massive cavern

The eery walls of white calcium carbonate, white pillars hanging from above and rising from below. A glisten would form on the bottom of a stalactite. The bulge of water would grow. And then, drip. And so they form, over thousands of years.
Different people see different shapes, said the guide. I see the ‘silence’ – a science fiction alien from ‘Doctor Who’. Or maybe one of the aliens from the film ‘Alien’ with Sigourney Weaver. Whatever I saw, it felt like I was in another world. Amazing.

Leaving the cavern

Leaving the cavern

But before, preparing me for my science fiction adjourn, I passed through the fields of Lothlórien from Lord of the Rings. Green, lush fields, with white horses frolicking in the sun. Legolas was just around the corner.

White horses in Lothlórien

White horses in Lothlórien

White horses in Lothlórien

White horses in Lothlórien

A fellow long-distance cyclist. Meet Samuel from France. Travelling a circuitous route from France to South America (via Greece). He didn’t join me into the caverns, and had gone by the time I emerged. We did go, together with Marko, to the cavern lookout. I guess our paths may cross on the way to Greece.

Canyon lookout

Canyon lookout

Me and Samuel

Me and Samuel

Me and Marko

Me and Marko

I wanted to see Trieste, which made my route today very convoluted. Marko had a brilliant tip of following an abandoned train track that went downhill all the way into the centre of Trieste. Fantastic!

Descent into Trieste

Descent into Trieste

Descent into Trieste

Descent into Trieste

Trieste was in sailing regatta fever. I made my way down to the shore, took the necessary ‘I was here’ picture, and then tried to find my way back. Not too easy.. OK. I don’t have a problem with going the wrong way up one way streets (otherwise I would still be there now). However, Trieste being so steep, at one point, the only way forward was up – and almost vertically up. No gym today, but a 50kg (bike and luggage) heave.

Piazza Unita in Trieste

Piazza Unita in Trieste

Gym training

Gym training

Once out of the centre, finding the way out of the city without freeways is also a challenge. Thanks to my little friends (that I discovered on the way from Venezia eastwards) – the black sticker with the red arrow.

My friend the cycling sticker

My friend the cycling sticker

Around and around, in and out, up and down, and then ‘Hello Slovenia’ (after a short steep uphill grunt).

Made it into Slovenia again

Made it into Slovenia again

Tonight is hostel night – in the seaside town of Koper in Slovenia. Tomorrow the Istrian peninsula in Croatia.

The alley with my hostel

The alley with my hostel


From busy Italian plains to quiet Slovenian hills. I was warned about the busy traffic near Trieste, so, I thought I would avoid it by cycling through Slovenia. It was lovely.

Vineyards in Slovenia

Vineyards in Slovenia

I am staying with Marko – an avid cycler in Sežana, in Slovenia just over the border from Trieste. With Slovenia as my destination today, I realised that Slovenia may be the solution to my traffic problems in Italy. I decided to go to Slovenia as quickly as possible – at Gorizia.

Border crossing, Slovenia

Border crossing, Slovenia

The road was pretty, following a nice valley through lots of vineyards, flanked by steep hills on both sides. It was rather cloudy, and the not good light conditions for photos, but a pleasant, and, more importantly, quiet.

Marko, my warm showers host, has been cycling everywhere on this planet. He gave me lots of tips for Slovenia, Croatia and Albania. I am quite excited at seeing some of these places. The next leg of my trip is gaining form! Yay!!

Me and Marko

Me and Marko


Busy straight roads on the northern Italian plains. Thanks Fabio from the Italian cycling forum for accompanying me for some of today. The kilometres raced by exchanging stories. Then, head down, as I burned the kilometres away. There’s no way to meander here anyway.

Me and Fabio

Me and Fabio

There’s no avoiding them. Main roads with lots of cars and trucks. Even the side roads which look better on the map have lots of traffic.
First, I was distracted with nice conversation with Fabio, who led the way. Then, I just followed the main road which went straight to Trieste. While cycling my brain was constantly calculating and updating the kilometres and estimated arrival times. The traffic acts as a shield to taking in any scenery. You brain power is taken up listening for cars behind, and watching oncoming cars, constantly reassessing the situation.

Then, 10km before my destination Palmanova, I left the main road. Suddenly, within 50 metres, I woke up from my daze. I saw fields. I saw trees. And I didn’t hear cars. It was like someone had flicked a switch. The living life switch.

Just off the main road

Just off the main road

And the clouds were beautiful. And threatening. Dark clouds, and occasionally light.

Light and dark

Light and dark

The clouds

The clouds


On a back road in the northern plains in Italy, I thought, this is pretty awesome. I am cycling across the planet. Away from the constant racket of cars, trucks and motorbikes, passing through fields and over valley ridges, I feel like I am cycling again. Not just making sure I’m staying alive. Happy.

Fimon

Fimon

Lunch is an important event for a cyclist. Sometimes it is in a pleasant place. Sometimes it is just somewhere when the hunger hits. Today I found a lovely bakery in a pretty town with a castle on the hill behind – Soave.

Reflecting my lunch

Reflecting my lunch

Another lucky pig to go with my sunglasses cloth

Another lucky pig to go with my sunglasses cloth

And milestones appease my ego. 2000km from Eindhoven and going strong.

2000km

2000km

A day of pleasant but not spectacular cycling.

Typical road

Typical road

In the evening sun

In the evening sun

Padova is a beautiful city. I was here once before many moons ago. Tonight the moon made for an impressive backdrop as I strolled through the city centre at night.

Padova by night

Padova by night

Padova by night

Padova by night


Today I felt like an ant, crawling around with thousands of other ants. I was part of the mound of tourist ants. I took photos, holding my phone up high. One of the many. Busses and cars transport the ants along busy roads and then wait outside where the ant density is too high. Drahtesel plies the same roads, and like the busses and cars, waits patiently outside.

Verona

Verona

Romeo, Romeo, where for art thou Romeo?
I saw Juliette’s tower today, and the balcony where such a scene may have taken place. Today, being the first Sunday in the month, meant that potential Juliette’s could stand out on the balcony for only one euro. The Juliettes rotated constantly on the balcony, being watched by the hoards of Romeos (and me, of course) from below.

Juliette's balcony

Juliette’s balcony

From high up from the central tower, I had a bird’s eye view out over Verona. It is a lovely city. The rooftops and squares gave me the feeling of Italy – a holiday feeling. I have already come a long way from the Netherlands.

Verona from above

Verona from above

Verona from above

Verona from above

Earlier in the day I visited Sirmione – a thin peninsula poking up into Lago di Garda. I convinced the policeman that I would only push my bike through the centre, and he let me through. I soon left. There really was no room..

Sirmione

Sirmione

I guess I am a loner. Crowds stress me. An open road, alone, through the mountains, through the plains – that is for me.