Rain. Mist. Not a day for Passo dell Stelvio. Instead, I rolled down into Bormio at the base of Passo del Stelvio all ready for the ascent tomorrow in the (predicted) sunshine.
Passo del Foscagno
Tomorrow (Thursday) is predicted to be better weather. Thursday and Friday will be good on Passo dell Stelvio, and then it will be crap as far into the future as we can see. Winter is coming, and those may be the last two nice days in the Alps. Today was a day to prepare for the big climb tomorrow. A short day to the base of the pass. As it turned out, it didn’t rain too much, but, you never know in advance.
All ready for the rain.
Climbing in the mist
Between me and Bormio is Passo del Foscagno (2291m). As Livigno is already quite high, this was not much of a climb. But, man, what a descent. 16km of down and down and down. The descent never seemed to end. Bormio is at 1225m.
Passo del Foscagno
Bormio has thermal baths. Due to a strange sequence of events, I found myself walking on a main road in the rain to some baths about 2km out of the town centre. I aborted this attempt in the name of safety, and instead watched the sunset from my hotel room balcony.
My heart is thumping, my panting is almost all I can hear. Through the adrenalin rush I can hear and observe only one sound. There is no brain capacity for more. The jingling of cow bells. The gush of water. The sprinkle of rain. Or pure silence in the beautiful mountains. The Drahtesel is conquering the Alps.
Looking down from the Albula Pass
Today I was greeted by lots of lovely people, all wishing me well on my route. At the top of the Albula Pass, on a hiking road to Zernez, on the bus (!) to Livigno, in the hotel and more.
Many look at my bike, trying to find the electric battery. So many people use them around here. I don’t know how easy it would be to charge such a battery in Tajikistan on the Pamir Highway. One would need a mother of a solar panel. 🙂
I hereby name my bike ‘Drahtesel’. Such a cool name, first used by Viktoria Schulte from the Kölnische Rundschau. While crawling up the mountain, I found myself talking to Drahtesel. For me it signifies a heavy but sturdy beast, that, slowly but surely, scales anything. We’re getting there Drahtesel! You’re doing well, Drahtesel. Drahtesel scaled his first pass in the Alps today – the Albula Pass (2315m).
Albula Pass
Sunrise in Bergün before the Albula Pass
Looking up at the Albula Pass
Then Drahtesel flanked the side of the valley in the forest, following a river down to Zernez. Although the river was flowing in my direction (I checked that), it was a steep up and down affair on gravel roads. The group of swiss walkers I met there made my day. What a lovely bunch. They told me all about the railway that was built there, and how the bridge collapsed 100 years ago and killed lots of workers.
The Swiss walkers
The railway bridge
Mountain view
My planned route was a turnoff from the road leading to the Ofenpass. Oops. I was wondering how the road was going to magically pass into Italy. There were no obvious side rivers. Just massive mountains everywhere. Well, a bike-free tunnel with a bike shuttle bus. My first cheat of the trip (only 3km – I don’t feel too bad about that).. 🙂
The road through to Italy
And then ‘Hello Italia’. My home for the coming week or two.