Posts Tagged ‘Australia’


“The tracks buckle in this heat,” he said. I was sharing one of my 6 icy poles with a guy who worked for the Sydney trains that I met at the supermarket. I cycled from Goulburn to Mittagong to avoid cancelled trains, and then to Albion Park for the same reason. I didn’t buckle in the heat, however.

Today where I was, it got to the high 30s. On the coast it hit 43C. No wonder the train tracks buckle. It didn’t feel too hot cycling however. I had a nice breeze, and a cute echidna to look at.

Echidna

At Bundanoon I took a little detour to one of my favourite lookouts – Bonnie View lookout. I was the only one there – everyone else was in the cooler cafes in Bundanoon.

Bonnie View lookout

When I planned the whole trip, there were trains running from Goulburn – so Goulburn was going to be my end destination. When I got there, I saw that they had planned trackwork (which wasn’t planned when I was making my plans), and that I needed to cycle to at least Moss Vale. The afternoon trains from Moss Vale got cancelled – one after the other (with about an hour between each cancellation). I guess they realised that the repair work was going to take longer than expected. I rang the trains people to find out how I was going to get from Moss Vale or Mittagong (I had cycled a few stops further to Mittagong) back home. No luck. The trains were cancelled and there were no replacement busses. After much deliberation, I decided to continue on to Albion Park on the coast to catch a train that WAS running. Leaving at 5pm from Mittagong, the sting had left the sun, and it was a pleasant ride.

I am quite happy with today’s achievement of 155km (with the heat and mountainous landscape). In fact, I am happy with the whole week’s cycle. I have seen some beautiful places and pushed the limits of this 54 year-old body and 1 year-old bike (well – actually the bike’s brake pads). Sydney has some beautiful places to visit in its back yard.

This is the whole week’s cycling route.


Living in the now, being in the flow, is about being totally engaged in what you are doing right now. No other thought enters, no other worry. You are engrossed in your activity – now.

Leaving at 7am before the temperature got to its maximum of 37C, I slalomed up the Wombeyan Caves Road, reducing the angle of incline. It was not too hot, and not so steep that I couldn’t cycle, and I was in the flow.

Then I met the same shape on the gravel road – corrugations. I continued my slalom cycling, avoiding the sine wave shaped undulations in the road. I was in the flow.

I rarely stopped to think of taking a photo, so in the flow I was. Here is a wombat sign.

Wombat sign

I stopped for morning tea at Taralga, and filled up with a lot of water to make it through the 45km of undulating terrain in the scorching sun.

As it turned out, it was not that hard, and I didn’t feel that hot. I had a tailwind, and the road was more downhill than up.

The heat, however, had stopped the trains. They can’t handle it when it is so hot, apparently, so I am not on my way home today. I am happy with this. I will continue towards Sydney tomorrow by bike. I will connect up the lines on my Strava heatmap – a record of everywhere I have cycled since I started using Strava in 2018 or so. I have not connected my routes starting in Goulburn with routes around Mittagong. A worthy pursuit for tomorrow.


Caves, gorge swimming, corrugated roads, kangaroo guests for dinner, heat and steep climbs/drops out of and into valleys. All in the bright sun (except for the caves and gorge swimming).

Gorge swimming

From Bummaroo (love the name), it was a long slog out of the valley in the already hot sun. At the top, a kind gentleman stopped his car and gave me a cold bottle of water. He was impressed.. 🙂

The road undulated through the farmland countryside before turning off to the Wombeyan Caves.

The turnoff

I started getting worried about the brakes when the road turned into a corrugated gravel track (knowing there was a massive descent just before the caves).

It was avoid the corrugations game today

Luckily, the road reverted to bitumen before the final descent, and the brakes made it (with only one mild squeak).

I came to Wombeyan Caves in 2019, but only for a short stay as I had to get back to Mittagong the same day (a very long ride on a road that is now closed). This time I had time to check out some of the caves – the Fig Tree Cave.

Fig tree cave

Then, time for a swim in the Limestone Gorge. I had memories of crystal clear water and only me there. This time, I shared the gorge with lots of people and a pink flamingo floatie. It was refreshing, though, after the walk there in the hot sun.

Limestone Gorge

I had to be very firm with a kangaroo this evening who was adamant he wanted to share my dinner. He let me pat him (which was nice), but it all became too intimate once he started pawing at and slobbering over my panniers. Even a light kick away from me didn’t deter him. I had to shout and run after him with arms waving. He left.

The friendly kangaroo

Became the annoying kangaroo

Well, this is not where I thought I’d be when I left Oberon this morning. Rather than Yerrenderie, I’m in a camping ground on the Abercrombie River. Let me explain.

The road to Yerrenderie

I left at 6am with a fully loaded bike with gallons of water. The road was beautiful through the plantation forest, undulating up to 1300m.

Early morning mist at Oberon
Shooters Hill Road

Then, the dirt track started. A big sign warned people – 60km, 4WD only, take spare tyres, take water etc etc. The first 9km was moderately harmless to the Mt Werrong camping ground. I thought this would be a piece of cake. After a snack and filling my water bottles from the tank that I wasn’t expecting, I continued.

The road started to get steep, dusty and rocky. Often I pushed my bike up, and rode the brakes down, only to repeat around the corner.

The road to Yerrenderie

While it was hard, I was enjoying it. Until the brakes started to squeak. The first sign of them wearing out. I was exactly half way between Mt Werrong and Yerrenderie -25km in both directions. Looking at the map, the road just got steeper. The brakes would not survive getting there, let alone getting back.

I couldn’t afford to be without brakes in the most remote part of this trip. I reluctantly turned around. I could walk up and down the steepest bits and make it back to Mt Werrong by sunset. From there, I could make it to the bitumen road tomorrow. I was confident the brakes would be fine on bitumen.

Then a car passed. And I caught a lift.

Thanks Mick and Amanda for the ride

They dropped me off at a place I’d passed earlier, not far from the main bitumen road.

Once I hit the tar, the brakes were fine. I hardly used them as I flew down the descents with confidence.

Still 30km from Taralga and 44km from Wombeyan Caves, I decided to call it a day at a camping ground just off the road where it crossed the Abercrombie River.

Kangaroos galore, I had a swim to freshen up, had dinner, and went to bed. I’m exhausted.

Lots of kangaroos

The back roads to Oberon – through beautiful forest roads. A visit to the National Park office to check on road condition and water availability. It’ll be a challenging day tomorrow.

The forest on Bastard Point Road

Today I saw some deer – together with lots of the standard kangaroos. No wild pig spottings like the last 2 days.

The back roads

A major shopping spree in Oberon, including lots of water. There’s no water until I get to tomorrow’s destination of Yerranderie. I have been eating like there’s no tomorrow, so lots of food was bought too.


Today was a big day. Sunrise at the Kanangra Walls and waterfall hunting on the back roads. Like yesterday, it was a sunny morning with a thundery and rainy afternoon. The jam-packed day included a mad dash in the rain and hail to the camping ground.

Kanangra Walls

The sunrise on the plateau at Kanangra Walls was spectacular. And I was the only one there.

The iconic image at Kanangra Walls
A view over everything

After a late breakfast, it was waterfall spotting – checking off all the falls in the book from #lostmtns in the Kanangra region.

Kalang Falls was a disappointment. I guess the reason may be it is only a short walk from the carpark, and I was not alone. By the time I got there, the masses had arrived.

Kalang Falls

Then it was on the side roads down to Morong Falls  I hadn’t realised how far it was off the main road. By the time I got there, the thunder was growling from all directions, and the rain fell intermittently. While I wanted to try out the natural bubble spa, and clamber down to the multiple pools below, I didn’t want to be caught in the thunderstorm on the (potentially slippery) rocks. It was a quick photo, a dip of the toes in the water, and off.

Morong Falls

After a thigh-deep river crossing, it was time to try Box Hill waterfall. Following an unmarked route, sometimes in the rain and hail, I made it there.

Crossing the Boyd River
Box Hill Falls

I just missed capturing the many fingers of lightening seconds before I took this photo. While I wanted to stay, I was aware that the track back to the road is easy to miss, and I didn’t want to hang around for the next bout of rain. As it was, the last 10km to the camping ground was in the rain.

Back at the camping ground, it was time to warm up, have dinner and wait until the rain stops so I can set up my tent.


I’m sitting in the eating shelter at the Kanangra Walls carpark. Today was sunny and rainy with a few claps of thunder. I didn’t get wet.

The rain is coming

With the office closed this week, I’m taking compulsory leave. A perfect opportunity to visit all the places in the back parts of the Blue Mountains that are too far to reach on weekend trips.

Kanangra Walls has always been on my list. Massive cliff faces dropping down to a spectacular valley.

Kanangra Walls

The weather has been weird the last few days. Sunny and beautiful in the morning. Dark, imposing clouds roll over in the afternoon. Rolls of thunder from the heavens. The occasional bolt of lightning.

But first the beautiful sunny morning undulating through the farmland.

The road to Oberon

Oberon was my refueling stop.

Entering Oberon

The rain started just as I arrived at the camping ground. I had a chat with two nature enthusiasts, Paul and Rebecca. They gave me some tips for things to see in the coming days.

I just made it to and from the famous lookout before the rain set in. Let’s see where I set up my tent (once the rain stops).

Before the clouds rolled over.

Before the clouds rolled over.

After the rain, the impressive clouds and the constant growl of thunder, the sun shone through just as it dipped below the horizon. My tent could be set up (and remain dry) just behind the shelter. I’m all set for my early morning walk on the Kanangra plateau.

The sinking of the sun at Kanangra Walls
The sinking of the sun at Kanangra Walls

I haven’t been there for a while as the bike, Drahtesel 1.0, was on life support. The sun was shining, and the Blue Mountains were calling. One of my favourite places there – Dalpura Canyon.

Not much cycling, really. A short cycle from the train to the trailhead, and then a walk down through the pagodas to the shady, cool canyon.

The bike rides like a dream. Bring on the next 95,000km.


The sunsets in Croydon (in Far North Queensland) are famous. When my friend moved there, I had to visit – but, of course, by bicycle. I had a smörgåsbord of sunsets, but also waterfalls and long outback roads as I cycled from the tropical eastern coast to the mangroves on the Gulf of Carpentaria.

I wasn’t the only one chasing sunsets. I met a German walking across the world. He is just finishing a circle around Australia after spending the pandemic here. I last cycled past him crossing Khardung La – the highest motorable road in the world in the Himalayas. In Croydon I ran into the cyclists doing the annual Cairns to Karumba charity cycle. They were going out as I was going home.

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Walking from Germany

For such a short trip it had many distinctive parts, making the holiday experience feel longer and more refreshing.

Palm studded sandy beaches at Palm Cove and Turtle Cove

Sunrise at Turtle Cove

Crater lakes and raging waterfalls on the Atherton Tablelands

Ellinjaa Falls

Hot springs and lava tubes on the savannah

Undara Lava Tubes

Sunsets in Croydon

Sunset at Croydon

Sunset at Croydon

Mangrove beaches and offshore sand banks at Karumba

Mangrove beach at Karumba

Mangrove beach at Karumba

Bird-filled sandy flats at Normanton

Mutton Hole Wetlands

Mutton Hole Wetlands

Many thanks to John Thompson and the Cairns Cycling Group Rides Facebook Group for the tips, especially how to get from the coast to the Tablelands without becoming roadkill (from windy, steep, narrow roads). Quaid Road is the go! Thanks to Elizabeth in Croydon for the motivation to discover this part of Australia!


The grass was crackeling as the smoke billowed up and was blown away by the wind. The eagles and hawks circled and dived in a mad feeding frenzy. They were feeding on grasshoppers fleeing the flames. It felt like a special moment in this beautiful, barren landscape.

The birds circled in a feeding frenzy

Looking at the landscape on Google Maps gets me excited. White plains with fingers of green in a fractal pattern as the rivers meander to the sea. I asked around how to get to this landscape. Many roads were blocked, but I could go to the Mutton Hole Wetlands. I’m glad I did.

Mutton Hole Wetlands
Mutton Hole Wetlands

It is a maze of tracks criss-crossing the landscape. Some ended in dead ends. Some ended at water that I didn’t dare to explore (because of crocs).

Dotted across the horizon were burns with smoke billowing out. I finally went to explore, and was amazed by the feeding spectacle.

Feeding frenzy