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The horses were pushed forward by the shepherd and back by the bulldozer. Some were pressed against the prescipice. After a brief moment of panic they moved to safety. Finally the horses did lead the way past the bulldozer and forklift truck to push through the freshly fallen scree. It all took half an hour.

Clearing the road

I was impatient. I know – I shouldn’t have been. Cycling with the British cyclist Josh, we had got it into our heads to make it over the Barachala Pass in one day. He was on the other side of the scree as the minutes ticked by.

We decided around Pastio to give it a go. I put on my Infected Mushroom music for the first time this trip, and felt so alive and happy. I felt strong as I climbed the hairpins, with beautiful mountains as a backdrop. I got in the zone and laughed with joy.

The road up

At Pastio, we remarked that there were only men there. No women. It is a man thing – a right of passage of a sort – to ride the Manali Leh on a motorbike. The men were bathing in the lake there. It was a bit cold for us, and anyway, we were men with a mission. Next stop: Zing Bar.

The road to Zing Zing Bar

Before Zing Zing Bar I got cramp in my leg. *sigh* I sent a message on to Josh through a passing car that he should continue. I’ll make it to Zing Zing Bar and stay the night. Rather than continuing, he returned, and we cycled the last km to Zing Zing Bar together.

After a prolonged meal, be both continued. The tents for sleeping were 6km further on.

I’m now happily set up in Zing Zing Bar. Josh is on his way over the pass. I think it will be tight, getting over the pass on daylight – even without cramp. Zing Zing Bar is a cool place to spend the evening.

Zing Zing Bar

Zing Zing Bar

My tent at Zing Zing Bar