Posts Tagged ‘Pang’


The bike stood there on the dry lake in the scorching sun. Around the bike were circles of tyre tracks from some motorbike enthusiast. Taking a photo of the scene every 5 seconds was the GoPro. Finally shade came, I packed up, left, and it started to hail.

Salt lake

Salt lake

Today was hot with a tailwind – except when it was hailing or raining with a strong headwind. The weather can change at the drop of a hat on these high altitude plains, and it did, numerous times.

This morning I climbed out of the canyon that Pang finds itself in, to be met with an amazing view of both the canyon and the beautiful More Plains.

Above Pang

Above Pang

Above Pang

Above Pang

Rolling along, I took many photos as I watched wild horses roaming in the distance.

More Plains

More Plains

More Plains

More Plains

My intention was to stay at Tso Kar lake, which was a 17km detour from the main road.

Towards Two Kar

Towards Two Kar

I never really found the lake. There were mounds of grass, and hillocks of sand, but no big expanse on water.

Tso Kar lake

Tso Kar lake

Tso Kar lake

Tso Kar lake

There were, however, 2 German cyclists who are cycling from the other direction. We spent most of the evening together, exchanging stories.


Today I woke fresh and well. I cycled up the Gata Loops (21 hairpin bends) and over the Nakeela Pass. The top of the next pass was in view. It was early and so I pushed on. My first 5000+m pass and oodles of amazing views.

The view down from Lachung La

The view down from Lachung La

My theory about my sickness yesterday is that my water filter contains evil bacteria. I ate almost nothing and what I did eat went straight through me. My body couldn’t get any protein to make new haemoglobin, hence the new round of altitude sickness. I’m now well fed, and free of gastro, and no headache at all. All ready to attack the double pass of Nakeela and Lachung La.

The road followed the river, with one stunning view being replaced by the next around every corner.

Leaving Sarchu

Leaving Sarchu

Road from Sarchu

Road from Sarchu

Road from Sarchu

Road from Sarchu

The Gata Loops at the start of the Nakeela Pass saw a few traffic jams as the road is only wide enough for one car.

Climbing the Gata Loops

Climbing the Gata Loops

Finally I passed the Nakeela Pass, only to see the pitiful Whisky Nalah straddling a dry creek bed just below.

Nakeela La

Nakeela La

The disappointment of Whiskey Nala with Lachung La in the background

The disappointment of Whiskey Nala with Lachung La in the background

I couldn’t stay here, and there was time, so I climbed the Lachung La and descended an extremely beautiful but bumpy road into Pang.

Lachung La

Lachung La

View down from Lachung La

View down from Lachung La

Towards Pang

Towards Pang

Towards Pang

Towards Pang