Posts Tagged ‘Thukje’


‘I’ll take a selfie with you. One minute.’ Then someone else, and another. Phones thrust into my face from all sides. Meanwhile, the wind was blowing the cold hail through my thin jacket. I retired to the warm food hut. My own selfie by myself would have to wait. The trials and tribulations at the top of the second highest road in the world.

Taglang La

Taglang La

Today was the day of the cyclists. I spent a lovely breakfast and 17km ride with the German couple Jane and Daniel. I spent about 5km with two Spanish guys before we split up – my pace being too slow. And I met an American cyclist on the way down.

Taglung La felt like a real pass. The climb went on and on, and the weather was wild – changing it’s mind every couple of minutes. Tailwind. Headwind. Sun. Hail. Thunder.

Approaching Taglang La

Approaching Taglang La

Just before the top, the wind tried it’s best to blow me off the mountain, and it started hailing on cue as I arrived at the top.

Taglang La

Taglang La

The way down was spectacular (even if the photos weren’t). After skirting the side of the mountain a bit, the road dived down to a small stream way below through a bunch of sharp switchbacks on a bright red mountain slope. The hurricane wind was mostly a tailwind, except on some switchbacks, where I pedalled to move downwards.

The road down from Taglang La

The road down from Taglang La

Once I reached the stream at the bottom, I flew, blown by the very strong wind. Travelling between 40 and 50 kmh, I had my first glimpse of Ladakh. Villages with sudden bursts of green and yellow, and gompas everywhere. The weather sucked, so I stopped at Lato to experience this beautiful valley in the sun tomorrow.

The river at the base of Taglang La

The river at the base of Taglang La

The greenery of Ladakh

The greenery of Ladakh


The bike stood there on the dry lake in the scorching sun. Around the bike were circles of tyre tracks from some motorbike enthusiast. Taking a photo of the scene every 5 seconds was the GoPro. Finally shade came, I packed up, left, and it started to hail.

Salt lake

Salt lake

Today was hot with a tailwind – except when it was hailing or raining with a strong headwind. The weather can change at the drop of a hat on these high altitude plains, and it did, numerous times.

This morning I climbed out of the canyon that Pang finds itself in, to be met with an amazing view of both the canyon and the beautiful More Plains.

Above Pang

Above Pang

Above Pang

Above Pang

Rolling along, I took many photos as I watched wild horses roaming in the distance.

More Plains

More Plains

More Plains

More Plains

My intention was to stay at Tso Kar lake, which was a 17km detour from the main road.

Towards Two Kar

Towards Two Kar

I never really found the lake. There were mounds of grass, and hillocks of sand, but no big expanse on water.

Tso Kar lake

Tso Kar lake

Tso Kar lake

Tso Kar lake

There were, however, 2 German cyclists who are cycling from the other direction. We spent most of the evening together, exchanging stories.