Day 30. 93km. Vrsar – Porozina

Posted: October 13, 2014 in Croatia, Cycling
Tags: , , ,

I lie on the grass overlooking the pebbly beach. I hear the sound of the waves lapping. The stars are out, after the fading of colours of the high rugged mountains opposite. I am wild camping on Cres island in Croatia. Stunning.

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Today I crossed the Istrian peninsula from one side to the other. Its bigger than it looks and hilly to boot. I cycled along quiet roads that meandered from one little town to the next. I passed fields, forests, grassy plains as I climbed up a bit, then drop a bit, then climb some more.

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I don’t know if they are glacial, but I passed two very steep grooves in the landscape. Rolling hillsides, then bang – a steep rut in the landscape. They were sweaty work climbing out of, but were very pretty.

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Along the bottom of the grooves were lovely flat valleys, that rose up steeply on the sides like a glacial u-valley.

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I had a ferry to catch at 16.30 to the island of Cres. I thought at first I could catch the earlier one at 13.30. Silly me. It is hot and steep. In the end, I pushed myself up the steep hills, dripping in sweat to make it in time.

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I asked around for a flat bit of ground to camp. They pointed me to the village beach. Not a bad spot for my first wild camp..

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Postscript: Its 4:30 am in my tent. I look into myself. No. I’m not scared. But I’m listening intently. I can only hear. All I see is the inside of the tent with my big pupiled eyes.
I recognise the lapping of the water. Sometimes a gurgle.
The water is quite relaxing. I can imagine it lapping on the pebbles and the rocks on the end on the beach.
Then a snap. I twig breaking in the steeply rising forest behind me. My ears perk up. Then another one. Snap. Then a small rumble as a slide of small rocks chatter down the slope.
Gurgle gurgle. Lap lap.
I start to doze.
Then with an automatic jolt of adrenalin I am brought to my senses by a gallop of something across the pebbly beach.
Gurgle gurgle. Lap  lap.
Snap.
Then something running around on the grass. A reindeer? I’ve no idea. About that size, I’d guess.
Wait. Just then I heard a bird sound together with the snap and rumble. A big bird?
Gurgle gurgle. Lap lap.
I think I know all the sounds. Time for sleep. I have a big hill to climb before the next ferry to krk.

Comments
  1. felixxbln says:

    There are definitely no reindeers in Croatia … 😉

  2. Hallo friend, I met you in the little coffe-bike-break-station (in Italy called “bicigrill”), based 17 km after Trento/Italy. I’m a Alessandro friend, in the photo with a blue jacket with colored stripes across … I would suggest you: in HR try to visit Kornati Islands …
    For you, my best “Goob bike”!
    With the complimets of our Trento Bike Federation
    Riccardo

  3. Paul Montgomery says:

    Hi Matthew.

    Looks like things are going well. I hope it feels this way too.

    Croatia is very lovely and of course they don’t care if you swim naked.

    Your blog is a real pleasure to read. I have been really enjoying it. Thanks!

    All the best

    Paul

    Sent from my iPhone

    • Hey Paul. Great to hear from you. It is very beautiful here but rather hilly. Luckily the sun has a habit of being behind the clouds when I go uphill and of coming out when I go downhill. 🙂

  4. Alessandro says:

    Camping in the wild, I see (and with unknown animals roaming about your tent, I see 🙂

    In the picture before last above: is that the Leme Fiord?

    I hope the good weather will accompany you some more. Here we are having lots of rain that would spoil any bike touring.
    Cheers,

  5. cyclerist says:

    If you’re heading further to the south hope you’ll have some sun in the next few days.
    Here is the official croatian meteo web site for next 7 days for Zadar region so you can plan better where to go 🙂
    http://prognoza.hr/sedam.php?id=sedam&param=Hrvatska&code=14428

    Take care!
    Marko

  6. Valerie Volk says:

    We too have ‘wild camped’ on these islands, especially Rab and Pag, where we had a week living on the beach in a camping van. You’re right. They are magic at night.

    Sent from my iPad

    >

  7. Druadan says:

    very beautiful places!

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