Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


Another sprint, Metallica blaring in my ears, and then all I could hear was the call to prayer. The local mosque was calling out to its followers. Slowly the religious landscape has been changing as I travel south. I am approaching the second large muslim region of the planet – Malaysia and Indonesia – my home for the next months.

Ao Nang beach

Ao Nang beach

I have seen more women with hijabs, many fluttering in the wind as they pass me on their motorbikes. I have seen more halal restaurants, and I have seen more mosques. The variation in the world seen slowly from the eyes of a cyclist.

I left my warmshower host, Andrey, early and did a little detour to Ao Nang beach. It seems there littering is allowed for 21 hours each day.

Littering allowed

Littering allowed

The rest of the morning was spent in Krabi replacing my broken bike computer. I couldn’t find one with an altimeter, but, I guess I’ve already done most of the mountains.. ☺ Getting to Koh Lanta – my planned destination – became another race as I only left Krabi at 13.00. Head down, music on, on the freeway, I couldn’t enter the zone today. The headwind saw to that.

Tomorrow I’m off on a snorkelling trip to Koh Rok where I will spend the night in my tent on the beach by my little self. An evening snorkel in the clear blue waters as I watch the sunset is rather appealing to me at this moment. No blog entry tomorrow.


I almost cried for the beauty today. Turquoise, still water studded with rock pinnacles on the horizon. Then security guards with batons, broken bike computer cables, missing pannier screws and broken helmet buckles added to my low blood-sugar levels, putting a dampener on a day which unfolded in a glorious paradise backdrop.

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

Many people I have spoken with said I must make the detour to Koh Yao Noi. I am glad I did. The views are absolutely amazing.

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

I had a few hours, so I decided to visit one of the beaches at the end of a dirt road. I chose the one leading to Paradise Resort. This is a very very steep and dusty road through the jungle. Quite pleasant, but I was looking forward to sipping a smoothie on the beach at the end. Not to be.

No Trespassing! Paradise Resort at Koh Yao Noi.

No Trespassing! Paradise Resort at Koh Yao Noi.

No passing through here

No passing through here

The guard was armed with a script in English, insisting that due to security, all visitors had to register 48 hours in advance. A bomb going off was mimed to explain the security risk. The guard was also armed with a baton. (Don’t worry – he was only doing his job. When I backed off, he put the baton away.) I walked the steep public footpath to the nearby rock-climbing area, and to the other edge of the private resort.

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

A note to the owners of Paradise Resort on Koh Yao Noi. Please put a sign at the start of the dead-end road informing people of your policy of no unregistered visitors. This can reduce the frustration had by all.

Thanks to Andrey, my lovely warm showers host in Krabi. The night is still young, but I’m looking forward to exchanging stories!

But first, one more photo from beautiful Koh Yao Noi.

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi


My arrival in Luang Namtha sees the end of my delayed posts of my cycle trip through China. Like for the rest of my trip, I have put together a little video. This video is of the section from Xiahe to Luang Namtha. I hope you like it!


The end was in sight, and was reached today. Arrival in my place of rest was wonderful. Afternoon sleeps. Banana smoothies. Finalising my video. Listening to podcasts in bed. Everything the heart desires. The simple pleasures of a completely exhausted cyclist!

Fields near Luang Namtha

Fields near Luang Namtha

Three days of relaxation until Mark arrives. Several rounds of the three pizzas for the price of two deal at the local fast food place, and drinking lots of banana smoothies.

After having recovered somewhat, a kayak trip through the dense jungle did the trick. Such rich green, pouring down the steep river banks. Long roots hanging down from the heavens into the water, as we navigated through the cool water as it eased around the rocks, down the valley. Butterflies – blue ones and yellow ones. Dragonflies of all colours. Birds. A beautiful cacophony of nature.


The endpoint today was what I had planned. The path there was somewhat different. This morning I consumed a breakfast buffet in the hung-over Patong. This evening I dined with a view over the still turquoise waters studded with kaarst islands. Party vs serenity, and in between, an island I didn’t expect to visit.

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

Actually, there are no boats that go from Phuket town to Koh Yao Noi – only from the town I cycled past in a blur yesterday. I had no desire to cycle the same freeway with a headwind. The alternative was to take a boat to a different island – Koh Yao Yai, cycle across it, and catch a further boat to Koh Yao Noi. This made for an unexpected serene bike ride across the peaceful, beautiful tropical island of Koh Yao Yai.

Koh Yao Yai

Koh Yao Yai

Koh Yao Yai

Koh Yao Yai

Koh Yao Yai

Koh Yao Yai


I didn’t think I would be in the party capital of SE Asia this time yesterday. Look where going with the flow brought me today. The lack of boats from Phangnga to Koh Yao Noi on Sunday, the big tailwind, and the endorphine rush of cycling long distances in ‘the zone’ brought me to Patong Beach.

Patong beach at sunset

Patong beach at sunset

The boat left from the 80km distant Phangnga at 13.00, so I left early to try to make it. It was cool and misty, I was bursting with energy, and there was a tailwind. By 11 I was in Phangnga, only to find there was no boat on Sunday. There was a boat to Koh Yao Noi, however, from the north of Phuket island (a further 70km away), so I set off for it. Cycling along the freeway with music blasting in my ears, I entered the ‘zone’. I had boundless energy and simply flew along, laughing all the way. This is cool! I realised: I didn’t need to catch the boat today. I can experience the absolute opposite of my lonely beach experience – at Patong Beach. I knew this is what I wanted to do.

The freeway to Phuket

The freeway to Phuket

Sunset at Patong Beach

Sunset at Patong Beach

This place is quite a sight. An evening of mayhem before returning to serenity. Walking down the tourist drag in the early evening, I saw bars – massive ones lined with stools stretching off to the horizon. Music was pumping out onto the street in preparation for the long night. Topless men and scantily clad women thrust menus for drinks, food or other services at me as I walked past. This must be heaving with people in the evening before the people heave themselves at the end of the night. I didn’t see any heaving. I did see empty, void expressions on many faces. Tourists and sex-workers alike, some people are not happy here, and everyone has the right to be happy.

Patong

Patong


I have left the People’s Republic of China, and am now in Laos. I staggered over the border – I have spent all my energy cycling in China, and am ready for a tropical rest in Laos.

Na Teuy

Na Teuy

I started on the old road today. I curved its way around the landscape as expected, but, was the centre of much roadwork activity. With the peace gone, the road surface only OK, and delays while trucks did their thing, I returned to the new road, went through tunnels, and got to the border faster.

I am staying in a little village 20km over the border in Laos. Another 35km tomorrow to Louang Namtha and then a rest while I wait for Mark (who cycled with me in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan) to join me.

Na Teuy

Na Teuy


I got up before dawn and walked out onto the beach, the waves lapping at my feet, and the panorama of stars laid bare above my head. And then I saw her. Majestically hanging in the sky. ‘Hello. It’s been a while. I’ve cycled from far-away climes to see you!’
The Southern Cross.

Sunrise at Phum Riang Beach

Sunrise at Phum Riang Beach

It is warm, but there is a light cool breeze. My eyes are adjusted to the dark. All I can see are stars and the silhouettes of trees. And the glimmering water. The water is calm, lapping over the damp sand before receding for the next wave. In the distance is a bright star – it is approaching. As it nears, I see a beam of light pointing forward from the star. At its side there is a red light, flashing every few seconds. Then I see a shooting star, falling from the heavens towards the water. I feel at peace here. By myself. The sand between my toes and the breeze ruffling my hair. And the Southern Cross on the horizon. The day will start soon, but now – right now – the world sleeps and time has lost its meaning.

The morning was beautiful, but, the small roads past lonely beaches was not on the agenda today. Instead were main roads with traffic extending in straight lines across the hot, dry landscape. I avoided the biggest of the roads but navigating my way along side roads with Google Maps. Tomorrow a dash down to Phanggna to catch the ferry.


The old road on the map got even wigglier and steeper than yesterday. Today I didn’t see the cycling forbidden signs, and cycled smoothly up and downhill on the new road that rarely was on land – either on massive stilts above the valley, or in carbon monoxide tunnels. I saved about 50km,10000 kcal and one day of cycling.

Banana plantation

Banana plantation

Motorbikes were also forbidden, which didn’t deter anyone. I must have cycled past at least a dozen policemen. The road was OK to cycle on.
The valleys were very steep and absolutely dense in the greenest of green foliage. Looking down from my lofty perch on a bridge, the jungle below reigned supreme. I could not help but think how hard it would have been cycling here, on the old road.

Misty mountains

Misty mountains

Mengla is the last sizable town in China. Laos – here I come!


While curving my way up and down and around and around, I wondered what the fractal dimension was of this road. I wondered this when regarded as projected onto a 2-dimensional space (like a map), or when in its true 3-d space. In 2 dimensions, taking a scaling factor ε=1/3, and using the formula

I think the fractal dimension is the same as the Koch Curve – namely 1.2619.

Equally nerdy, I remembered the puzzle – if you have 100km to go, you can go 50km, and then have 50 to go. Then, if you go 25, you have 25 to go. Then, going 12.5, you have 12.5 to go. If you continue halving the distance travelled, you never reach the 100km. This is how I felt, winding my way in ever tighter curves, towards the Laos border. All the while either climbing or falling on the steepest of steep slopes. Its beautiful, but tomorrow I’m taking the main road with long, badly ventilated tunnels. I’ve had it with hills.

The valley

The valley

It's hilly

It’s hilly

It's hilly

It’s hilly

It's hilly

It’s hilly