Posts Tagged ‘Phang Kan’


I didn’t think I would be in the party capital of SE Asia this time yesterday. Look where going with the flow brought me today. The lack of boats from Phangnga to Koh Yao Noi on Sunday, the big tailwind, and the endorphine rush of cycling long distances in ‘the zone’ brought me to Patong Beach.

Patong beach at sunset

Patong beach at sunset

The boat left from the 80km distant Phangnga at 13.00, so I left early to try to make it. It was cool and misty, I was bursting with energy, and there was a tailwind. By 11 I was in Phangnga, only to find there was no boat on Sunday. There was a boat to Koh Yao Noi, however, from the north of Phuket island (a further 70km away), so I set off for it. Cycling along the freeway with music blasting in my ears, I entered the ‘zone’. I had boundless energy and simply flew along, laughing all the way. This is cool! I realised: I didn’t need to catch the boat today. I can experience the absolute opposite of my lonely beach experience – at Patong Beach. I knew this is what I wanted to do.

The freeway to Phuket

The freeway to Phuket

Sunset at Patong Beach

Sunset at Patong Beach

This place is quite a sight. An evening of mayhem before returning to serenity. Walking down the tourist drag in the early evening, I saw bars – massive ones lined with stools stretching off to the horizon. Music was pumping out onto the street in preparation for the long night. Topless men and scantily clad women thrust menus for drinks, food or other services at me as I walked past. This must be heaving with people in the evening before the people heave themselves at the end of the night. I didn’t see any heaving. I did see empty, void expressions on many faces. Tourists and sex-workers alike, some people are not happy here, and everyone has the right to be happy.

Patong

Patong


I got up before dawn and walked out onto the beach, the waves lapping at my feet, and the panorama of stars laid bare above my head. And then I saw her. Majestically hanging in the sky. ‘Hello. It’s been a while. I’ve cycled from far-away climes to see you!’
The Southern Cross.

Sunrise at Phum Riang Beach

Sunrise at Phum Riang Beach

It is warm, but there is a light cool breeze. My eyes are adjusted to the dark. All I can see are stars and the silhouettes of trees. And the glimmering water. The water is calm, lapping over the damp sand before receding for the next wave. In the distance is a bright star – it is approaching. As it nears, I see a beam of light pointing forward from the star. At its side there is a red light, flashing every few seconds. Then I see a shooting star, falling from the heavens towards the water. I feel at peace here. By myself. The sand between my toes and the breeze ruffling my hair. And the Southern Cross on the horizon. The day will start soon, but now – right now – the world sleeps and time has lost its meaning.

The morning was beautiful, but, the small roads past lonely beaches was not on the agenda today. Instead were main roads with traffic extending in straight lines across the hot, dry landscape. I avoided the biggest of the roads but navigating my way along side roads with Google Maps. Tomorrow a dash down to Phanggna to catch the ferry.