Archive for the ‘Cycling’ Category

Day 21. 100km. Merano – Trento

Posted: October 3, 2014 in Cycling, Italy
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Note: It is now possible to donate to Planet Green, of which Green Pedals is a project which I am supporting with my bike trip. See more here: https://greenpedalsforschools.wordpress.com/donate/

Why cycle along the valley when there are passes to climb? A day cycling the non-standard bike route along the Noce River with my new friend Alessandro from Trento. Oh. And I am now the proud owner of a lucky pig cloth for drying my sunglasses. 🙂

Adige Valley

Adige Valley

Note to self: Climbing 1200m is easier at higher altitudes where it is cooler.
I met Alessandro on the Italian cycling forum, and have received a very warm welcome at his and his wife’s house in Trento. ‘I see you like passes,’ he writes. ‘Well, how about the Gampenpass.’
I googled it. 1518m. Feeling pretty good about myself after scaling the Passo dello Stelvio, I arranged to meet Alessandro in the neighbouring valley to the Adige River. It was hot work.

Adige Valley

Adige Valley

Gampenpass

Gampenpass

All worth while. Here is my new lucky pig sunglass cleaning cloth.

Lucky pig sunglasses cloth

Lucky pig sunglasses cloth

Alessandro met me on the other side of the pass. The nice part about climbing 1200m, is that you then have that in the bank. This extra altitude was spend helping us along getting back to the Adige River. The Noce River is flanked with steep cliff faces, which were, unfortunately, never in the right place in the right conditions for being photographed. I had a go anyway.

Noce River

Noce River

Trento itself is what I really like about European cities. The city is alive with people living, restaurants, bars and things happening. I took some of the standard photos in the main city square before having a lovely evening with Alessandro and his wife Susan.

Trento

Trento

Me and Alessandro

Me and Alessandro

Day 20. 101km. Bormio – Merano

Posted: October 2, 2014 in Cycling, Italy
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I woke to clear blue skies. The Passo dello Stelvio was calling me and Drahtesel. Forests. Rugged mountains. Hairpins galore. Bare grassy plains, bathed in sun. I stopped pedalling, and there was silence. Just a gentle whoosh of the mountain breeze. Just me, for this moment, in this amazing place.
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When it’s nice weather, take advantage of it.. Strike while the iron is hot.
I guess it must also be old english – ‘strike’. Anyway, in Dutch, ‘strijken’ is to iron, which is good to do when the iron is hot. It wasn’t hot today, but it was sunny, and perfect for climbing the Passo dello Stelvio.

This pass has been on my agenda for ages. I got a tip to do this pass from one of the cycling forums I am writing to. It kind of felt everything has been leading up to this day. Stopping at the start of the pass, I was looking up into the mountains. Up and up and up.

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I cycled up in the shade behind a ridge, first through forests, then through half tunnels, protecting the road from rock slides, then a set of hairpin bends to lift the road up onto a high grassy, lonely plain. On this lonely plain I saw a small ball waddling over the grass. I thought, it looks like an echidna. And then I saw his tail. A beaver! How sweet!

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The road from Switzerland joins the road at the top of the Umbrail Pass. I visited Switzerland one last time before I head further south.
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The top of the pass was busy. Hotdog stands, souvenir shops, and amazing amazing views.
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The descent was FUN! In the sun, the view sweeping from one side to the other as I rounded the bends. Snowy peaks became visible. A big glacier. And it was all downhill.

At the bottom, I followed the Adige River through endless apple orchards.
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Surprisingly, the descent continued. I had to pedal, but, I kept up a speed of 25-30 km/h without much effort. I am sleeping at the Merano camping ground. Again, with a nice sunset.

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Day 19. 40km. Livigno – Bormio

Posted: October 1, 2014 in Cycling, Italy
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Rain. Mist. Not a day for Passo dell Stelvio. Instead, I rolled down into Bormio at the base of Passo del Stelvio all ready for the ascent tomorrow in the (predicted) sunshine.

Passo del Foscagno

Passo del Foscagno

Tomorrow (Thursday) is predicted to be better weather. Thursday and Friday will be good on Passo dell Stelvio, and then it will be crap as far into the future as we can see. Winter is coming, and those may be the last two nice days in the Alps. Today was a day to prepare for the big climb tomorrow. A short day to the base of the pass. As it turned out, it didn’t rain too much, but, you never know in advance.

All ready for the rain.

All ready for the rain.

Climbing in the mist

Climbing in the mist

Between me and Bormio is Passo del Foscagno (2291m). As Livigno is already quite high, this was not much of a climb. But, man, what a descent. 16km of down and down and down. The descent never seemed to end. Bormio is at 1225m.

Passo del Foscagno

Passo del Foscagno

Bormio has thermal baths. Due to a strange sequence of events, I found myself walking on a main road in the rain to some baths about 2km out of the town centre. I aborted this attempt in the name of safety, and instead watched the sunset from my hotel room balcony.

Bormio

Bormio

Bormio

Bormio

Bormio

Bormio

Day 18. 68km. Bergün – Livigno

Posted: September 30, 2014 in Cycling, Italy, Switzerland
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My heart is thumping, my panting is almost all I can hear. Through the adrenalin rush I can hear and observe only one sound. There is no brain capacity for more. The jingling of cow bells. The gush of water. The sprinkle of rain. Or pure silence in the beautiful mountains. The Drahtesel is conquering the Alps.

Looking down from the Albula Pass

Looking down from the Albula Pass

Today I was greeted by lots of lovely people, all wishing me well on my route. At the top of the Albula Pass, on a hiking road to Zernez, on the bus (!) to Livigno, in the hotel and more.

Many look at my bike, trying to find the electric battery. So many people use them around here. I don’t know how easy it would be to charge such a battery in Tajikistan on the Pamir Highway. One would need a mother of a solar panel. 🙂

I hereby name my bike ‘Drahtesel’. Such a cool name, first used by Viktoria Schulte from the Kölnische Rundschau. While crawling up the mountain, I found myself talking to Drahtesel. For me it signifies a heavy but sturdy beast, that, slowly but surely, scales anything. We’re getting there Drahtesel! You’re doing well, Drahtesel. Drahtesel scaled his first pass in the Alps today – the Albula Pass (2315m).

Albula Pass

Albula Pass

Sunrise in Bergün before the Albula Pass

Sunrise in Bergün before the Albula Pass

Looking up at the Albula Pass

Looking up at the Albula Pass

Then Drahtesel flanked the side of the valley in the forest, following a river down to Zernez. Although the river was flowing in my direction (I checked that), it was a steep up and down affair on gravel roads. The group of swiss walkers I met there made my day. What a lovely bunch. They told me all about the railway that was built there, and how the bridge collapsed 100 years ago and killed lots of workers.

The Swiss walkers

The Swiss walkers

The railway bridge

The railway bridge

Mountain view

Mountain view

My planned route was a turnoff from the road leading to the Ofenpass. Oops. I was wondering how the road was going to magically pass into Italy. There were no obvious side rivers. Just massive mountains everywhere. Well, a bike-free tunnel with a bike shuttle bus. My first cheat of the trip (only 3km – I don’t feel too bad about that).. 🙂

The road through to Italy

The road through to Italy

And then ‘Hello Italia’. My home for the coming week or two.

Hello Italia

Hello Italia

Lake Livigno

Lake Livigno

Day 17. 61km. Chur – Bergün

Posted: September 29, 2014 in Cycling, Switzerland
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Out of the Rhein Valley and into mountains. Some beautiful views high above the river, and a big grunt to climb up to Bergün at the end. All in the dazzling sun.
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Warnings of climbs were welcome. They mean amazing views in the peace and quiet in the forest overlooking the river and freeway.
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I followed the Swiss Veloland Route 6 which switched from running high above the river to skirting the edge of the river. The views kept on coming and I laughed with joy around every corner as a new vista revealed itself.
I am feeling stronger and stronger. Pacing myself I can lug my 50kg ‘Drahtesel’ up all the climbs I have met thus far. It’s a great feeling. I’m an exercise addict and there’s nothing better than working towards this big challenge in this spectacular landscape.
Here are some of the views.
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Bergün is a beautiful mountain village part of the way up the Albulapass.
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Day 16. 150km. Konstanz – Chur

Posted: September 28, 2014 in Cycling, Germany, Switzerland
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Four countries, mist, then bright warm sun. And a tail wind surrounded by spectacular mountains. Ah! The alps!
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Last night I discovered it was a longer ride to my warm showers host in Chur than I thought. Early to bed and early to rise. Healthy, wealthy and wise? Well, healthy, and very very happy!

Today saw me cycle through 4 countries.
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The Bodensee was misty and was mostly one long settlement. It was flat and meant that fast cycling was called for.
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When I left the Bodensee, the sun came out, a wind started blowing in my back, and the mountains rolled past me.
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Did you know they grow grapes in Switzerland?
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And some more nice views..
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I was fascinated by Lichtenstein. How did such a small country become established? Cycling past and through it is interesting. You see the natural borders which gave rise to the country. The Rhein River, and a rocky cliff face that goes all the way to the river. The high mountains at the back make an unpassable barrier.

Thanks Suzanne for letting me stay over in Chur. She has travelled everywhere – always doing adventurous things. When looking at my route through the alps – ah – that is beautiful. And that. And that. Her stories and passion for her country make me all the more excited. Maybe we will meet sonewhere. In Georgia? In Armenia? In Iran?
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Day 15. 110km. Meßstetten – Konstanz

Posted: September 27, 2014 in Cycling, Germany
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Goodbye Inge, Stefan, Jan and Jonas in Meßstetten. It was great to see you again. The mist in the Schwäbischen Alb dissolved as Stefan and I rolled downhill to the Danube valley, and further across green fields and forests, following little streams on their way down to the Bodensee at Konstanz. A beautiful sunny cycling day!

Stefan in the Schwäbischen Alb

Stefan in the Schwäbischen Alb

The bike paths in the hills are beautiful. They cross the rivers from one side of the valley to the other. They follow streams, rail lines, and sometimes the main roads – but more often than not they are away from everything, leaving the cyclist to enjoy the nature of an imposing valley, an open rolling field, or a cool shady forest. It is not all easy riding. Even following streams down, there are regular climbs as the path crosses the valley from left to right.

Cycling along a beautiful stream

Cycling along a beautiful stream

A rolling field

A rolling field

On the Bodensee it is flat, and the cycling masses are present. The at one with nature feeling is gone, but, it is pleasant cycling without any major hills, and the Bodensee is pretty. We also passed some nice sunflower fields.

Bodensee

Bodensee

Sunflower fields

Sunflower fields

Thanks, Stefan, for accompanying me. We bade farewell at the market square in Konstanz. Tomorrow I continue alone.

Farewell to Stefan in Konstanz

Farewell to Stefan in Konstanz

Day 14. 135km. Schömberg – Meßstetten (via Danube)

Posted: September 26, 2014 in Cycling, Germany
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Wow, wow, wow! Amazing weather along one of the most beautiful routes I have ever cycled. The Danube between Tuttlingen and Sigmaringen is incredible. And then, the route up from Sigmaringen to Albstadt and Meßstetten – cycling through my own personal wooded valley in the evening light. It was hard work, though! 🙂

The Danube

The Danube

Thanks Emil from 2radforum.de for the tip. The Donau is one of the hidden pearls of Germany. From Tuttlingen the river winds its way through a narrow valley with amazing cliff faces flanking each side. The bike path runs along the valley away from the road and train, through the sun and shady woods. Around each curve a new vista opens out. In several places there were castles perched on the top of a cliff overlooking the valley.

The morning mist on the way to Tuttlingen

The morning mist on the way to Tuttlingen

The Danube valley

The Danube valley

Castle perched on a hill

Castle perched on a hill

Castle perched on a cliff face

Castle perched on a cliff face

After leaving the Danube at Sigmaringen, I climbed and climbed and climbed to Meßstetten. The valley I cycled up was amazing, lit with the soft evening light.

Climbing to Albstadt

Climbing to Albstadt

I arrived in the dark. It was a bigger climb than I had anticipated. Hello Inge! It´s been 15 years!

Me and Inge

Me and Inge

Day 13. 113km. Ehningen – Schömberg

Posted: September 25, 2014 in Cycling, Germany
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A day extra before visiting friends in Meßstetten. I’m really in purple cow Milka territory now. Pine covered steep hills, and green fields. I can’t stop thinking of the alps in Switzerland. Due to a miscalculation, I find myself in a camping ground just 20km from Meßstetten. My plan of cycling a bit along the Danube before Meßstetten will be challenging.

In the forest before Tübingen

In the forest before Tübingen

The friend I am visiting in Meßstetten will only be there on Friday evening, so I have an day to kill. Emil from http://www.2radforum.de suggested I cycle along the Danube and see the beautiful caves and cliffs. Based on this, I planned to cycle along the Neckar to the source, and tomorrow, skip over the source of the Danube, and follow it to Sigmaringen. So, today: first to Tübingen (again) through the beautiful forest.

Bebenhausen

Bebenhausen

The Neckar is long, and it winds back and forth.

Path along the Neckar

Path along the Neckar

The Neckar valley is quite deep

The Neckar valley is quite deep

In Sulz I investigated possible destinations for today. I noted that there was no way I was going to reach the source of the Neckar today. I also noted there are no camping grounds after Sulz along the Neckar. So… I cut cross country, to a camping ground just 20km from Meßstetten. I’m not sure what I will do tomorrow. I need to end in Meßstetten. Any suggestions?

Oh. By the way, I passed 1000km today. Yay!

1000km mark

1000km mark

Day 12. 54km. Around Ehningen

Posted: September 24, 2014 in Cycling, Germany
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Dirk, the bringer of good weather, came from Bonn and blessed us with sun today. My ‘rest day’ was a gentle meander downhill with Dirk to Tübingen through a beautiful forest. The rain started the moment Dirk got on the train home. I hope he joins me again.. 🙂

Kloster Bebenhausen

Kloster Bebenhausen

Tomorrow my trip continues with luggage. Today was with a naked bike to the castle at Herrenberg, and then through the forest to Tübingen. I found it hard to believe that we were high enough to continue downhill all the way to Tübingen. It was wonderful, rolling through the peaceful and sunny forest. Birds were circling above, and I saw a fox bound away into the forest. We also passed a monastery just before Tübingen.

Herrenberg

Herrenberg

Dirk and me in the forest

Dirk and me in the forest

Dirk in the forest

Dirk in the forest

In the forest

In the forest

My precious at the monastery

My precious at the monastery

I’m glad that I can see one of my best friends, Cristina, before I leave Europe. She has just arrived in Ehningen after a business trip. What a good reason to have a rest day today!
Also, thanks Radwelt Ehningen for helping me out with a broken screw on my Ortlieb pannier!

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