Another pause – this time in Tehran. Time to make a new video. Hope you like it!!
Archive for the ‘Armenia’ Category
New Video: Part 4 of my trip. Tbilisi to Tehran by bike
Posted: July 30, 2015 in Armenia, Cycling, Georgia, IranTags: Armenia, Cycling, Georgia, Iran
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Day 112. 80km. Meghri – Jolfa
Posted: July 3, 2015 in Armenia, Cycling, IranTags: Armenia, Cycling, Iran, Jolfa, Meghri
We are in Iran! Yay!!! Today we cycled along the most amazing valley. Steep, barren mountains rising vertically upwards towards the heavens. Snow-capped mountains in the distance. And it is warmer. We have crossed into a new world.
The road to Jolfa
The valley started like a deep chasm with cliff-faces rising up on both sides. Slowly, it opened out. Grassy plains, poppies swaying in the (head) wind, and massive peaks looming behind. We stopped often for photos, and rejoiced the warmer weather.
Steep chasms
The road to Jolfa
The road to Jolfa
The road to Jolfa
The road to Jolfa
Day 111. 77km. Kapan – Meghri
Posted: June 30, 2015 in Armenia, CyclingTags: Armenia, Cycling, Kapan, Meghri
Proud. We are looking at the mountains of Iran, and we have cycled here over the Caucasus. Two years ago this was a dream. Now it is reality, and, cycling up a 12% slope in the snow and hail I laughed. I am here. Now.
Meghri pass
Today was not a day of admiring the scenery. It was hidden behind the cloud. Today was a day to climb from 800m to 2535m and down the other side to 600m. And the climb was going to be steep. My music cocooned me in a sphere of self-contemplation. Music that has accompanied me while preparing this trip.
While cycling in the arctic in northern Sweden, I was listening to ‘Alive’ by Krewella, and a shiver ran down my spine. Here I am cycling to the North Cape in Norway, through the tundra, and I had got there by bike. This trip was amazing, and, my next trip is going to be even more amazing. I was going to cycle back home. I cried with joy. I had made up my mind.
The planning of the trip took two years, and a lot of music accompanied me. My three months for Philips in Boston was a time where the trip planning took concrete form. My playlist today was full of those numbers.
‘Under Control’ by Calvin Harris and ‘Shewolf’ by David Guetta remind me of the final phases of planning in Eindhoven. And, ‘Let’s Go’, by Calvin Harris is just raw energy. Man, I was happy, rounding every hairpin bend, passing piled up snow, watching the snow turn from being flaky to consisting of small pellet-like balls. And then I watched the hail. I was here, now, doing what I had chosen to do, and what I love to do.
Snow mound
Iran is in sight
Coming down, the hail and snow turned to rain, and then cleared. The last kilometres into Meghri had good visibility, and we saw some beautiful mountain landscape.
Iran in the distance
Meghri valley
We even ran into a couple of Dutch touring cyclists – a rare sight in these parts.
Cycle tourists
Oh. I lost my voice today. I feel fine, but sound awful. I’m sure I’ll be fine tomorrow, when we enter Iran. We’re so excited!
Day 110. 67km. Goris – Kapan
Posted: June 27, 2015 in Armenia, CyclingTags: Armenia, Cycling, Goris, Kapan
After a one-day hibernation in Goris due to total lack of energy and a thumping headache, James and I cycled through the cloud to Kapan. We have heard the road is very beautiful. Well, we saw the road (and other objects) within a circumference of 20m of our humble selves before arriving damp and cold in Kapan.
Kilometres to Meghri and Yerevan
Today was good. I felt strong after my bear-like long sleep from 8pm through to daylight, some forays out of the room during the day, and another long night’s sleep. Today there was no wind, which made the steep climb a breeze (hehe). We climbed over the Vorotan Pass – the name makes me think of Mordor from Lord of the Rings. We didn’t see any hint of Mordor, there were no orcs, and no black riders. We didn’t see a hint of anything at all.
In the valley we could see, so I took a photo of James cycling along.
James from above
Actually, we did see hints of some things. James and I felt at home – we were riding towards the Crazy Club.
The Crazy Club
And the Velcome Disco seemed very velcoming.
The Velcome Disco
Arriving in Kapan we ran into another cyclist from Australia, cycling from India to Istanbul. He was bursting for an inner tube, and James could oblige. We will be meeting up with him shortly for a pre-Anzac day dinner.
Day 109. 38km. Shaki – Goris
Posted: June 24, 2015 in Armenia, CyclingTags: Armenia, Cycling, Goris, Shaki
I slept 11 hours and still felt tired and unmotivated. Am I developing a cold? Our destination today was strategically near, in a nice town, ready for the last two mountain slog days in Armenia. A battle through the roadworks and wind brought us to Goris where we went on a nice wander in the sun.
Goris
The road made its way up a mini-pass of 2200m (starting at 1800m) through a lot of roadworks. I realised I was not myself when I found myself getting very irritated at trucks booming their horns directly behind me, instructing me to move off in into the roadside sludge so they can pass. This is nothing new, but, it irritated me today.
The road to Goris
The road to Goris
I was so glad to roll down the hill into a beautiful valley, with the cute town of Goris nestled at the bottom. The sun came out, and James and I had a wander around, enjoying our half-day off.
The valley surrounding Goris
Watching football
Car
Shop in Goris
Soviet ice cream
Day 108. 84km. Getap – Shaki
Posted: June 21, 2015 in Armenia, CyclingTags: Armenia, Cycling, Getap, Shaki
With a 1300m climb on the agenda today, and rain forecast for mid-afternoon, James and I left in the (surprising) sun and (surprising) tailwind up a river gorge. The rain and cold hit at the pass, after which we cycled through the familiar high altitude lunar landscape to our warm and snug abode in Shaki.
Arctic Lake
Easy does it. The road climbs and climbs. The skies were grey and it was a bit hazy, not making for great photos. Still, it was a pleasant cycle.
Poppies
Village shop
Day 107. 130km. Sevan – Getap
Posted: June 18, 2015 in Armenia, CyclingTags: Armenia, Cycling, Getap, Sevan
Lake Sevan has an arctic feel. With the sun out, we had amazing views of the lake, the barren land, the snow-capped mountains and rusted paraphernalia. Today we had sun, gale-force wind (side and headwind), rain, snow, hail, thunder and lightening. And a 1300m drop into the most amazing valley. Cool!
Rusty train on Lake Sevan
The wind was ferocious – mostly a side-wind along the lake. It added to the arctic, deserted feel of the lake. We stopped numerous times for photos.
Lake Sevan
Lake Sevan
Lake Sevan
It was 15:45, and we wanted to get over the high pass and down the other side to the valley below. Well. The pass was a monster slog against the headwind, and through the snow. On the 2350m plateau at the top, it started to snow/hail/rain, the hail like bullets blown into our eyes. But my, it was beautiful!
Up out of Lake Sevan
The high pass plateau
Almost at the top of the pass
The view over the valley from the top was nothing short of spectacular. It was a long, long way down.
View from the top of the pass
And we rocketed down. We needed to find somewhere to stay. Camping was not too appealing with this weather, and the next town of any size was 25km down the valley. We are now snug as a bug in a rug (well, two bugs in rugs) in a little hotel on the corner of two roads.
Day 106. 77km. Vanadzor – Sevan
Posted: June 15, 2015 in Armenia, CyclingTags: Armenia, Cycling, Sevan, Vanadzor
Sometimes you want to meet the locals, and have a local experience. Sometimes you need quiet and to be by yourself. Today we wanted peace and a good night’s sleep. We had a beautiful day’s cycling in the sunshine to Lake Seven – a beautiful lake surrounded by snowy mountains. And then a 10 hour sleep. Wonderful.
Fisherman on Lake Sevan
Today was up, then down, then up, then down. All in the beautiful sunshine in the Armenian mountains. We got an early start from our kind host in Vanadzor as we needed to climb quite some metres today.
View on the way to Dilijan
James on the way up
Emerging from the tunnel before Lake Seven we found ourselves in the snow. Cruising down the river, we saw a gap in the mountains open out with each bend in the road, which turned into a wide expanse with snow-capped mountains on the horizon. Beautiful.
Entering Sevan town
All along the road following the lake shore were little huts, and fisherman waiting for cars to pass. They held out their arms, indicating the size of the fish they could sell. They must have mighty big fish in this lake!
Day 105. 80km. Ayrum – Vanadzor
Posted: June 12, 2015 in Armenia, CyclingTags: Armenia, Ayrum, Cycling, Vanadzor
’44? I wish you marry very (very) soon and have many children. Then you call: Ashot – I return to Armenia with wife and children.’
We toast (again), downing more of the 25 year old herbal alcohol beverage dating back to his friend’s wedding. And all this takes place in the Dutch language in his friend’s living room. Armenian hospitality at it’s best.
We met him in the mobile phone shop. James and I were huddled over our phones with super fast Internet like herion addicts getting our first hit for weeks, injected directly into the arm.
‘I saw James’ orange shirt and I thought – they are from Holland. I am so happy.’
I took over as the translator, and James and I found ourselves in Ashot’s humble abode eating sausages and bread, and drinking an almost pure alcohol vodka poured from a coke bottle. Then his friend came and we were invited to his place for even more hospitality.
Our friends in Vanadzor
In the living room, watched over by the dead parents’ portrait above the wall sized carpet hanging, Armenian music pumping out from the 5 thigh high loud speakers, we danced, hugging each other and collapsing into neighbouring armchairs. Ashot’s preficiency in Dutch meant we covered topics like the Armenian genocide, the role of the wife, and many configurations and permutations of how wonderful it is that we met and could share the first night of our lifelong friendship together.
Our friends in Vanadzor
And this, after a spectacular day cycling up an amazing cliff adorned valley in the beautiful warm sun and lovely tailwind.
I passed 8000km at a small village and celebrated with James and a young frenchman who is hitching around the world.
8000km
And then onwards and upwards. For this valley, it’s a case of pictures tell 1000 words.
Rubbish valley
Alaverdi
Alaverdi
The road to Vanadzor
The road to Vanadzor
Armenian hospitality and Armenian landscape. What a wonderful combination. As Ashot would say:
‘I wish you have many many special days like today!’
Day 104. 104km. Tbilisi – Ayrum
Posted: June 9, 2015 in Armenia, Cycling, GeorgiaTags: Armenia, Ayrum, Cycling, Georgia, Tbilisi
Our nice little camping spot on the lawns in front of an abandoned factory seemed high profile judging by the number of kids visiting us. The military also visited us – and kicked us out. We are now sleeping in someone’s house that is being renovated with a spectacular view over the mountains. This is called going with the flow.
Our living room in Ayrum
Armenia on a sunny day. We were welcomed by the border guards with their impressive tall green hats. We collected some drams (the currency) and were on our way, following the border river.
Drams
The small village of Ayrum was chosen as our end point of the day. A kind lady who spoke German pointed out a nice abandoned factory with lots of lovely lawns for pitching a tent. On getting to the factory, we passed the army barracks. They wanted our sunglasses, and James obliged, giving a spare set of spacey sunglasses. I was allowed, then, to try out the beret.
Armenian beret
So, they knew about us. And they knew where we were camping. We set up the tent, and the soldiers visited our campsite, together with the kids, multiple times. We also socialized with the neighbours – with all 3 generations.
The neighbours
On the 3rd visit from the soldiers, the boss told us we could not camp. We were near the Georgian border. (We weren’t.) Our neighbours spoke to the soldier – could we camp in their garden? No, said the soldier. So, we are now in their second house that they are renovating – up on the hill above the village. What lovely people!
Our Ayrum hosts
View from our verandah
arctic-cycler.com 