Posts Tagged ‘Ayrum’


’44? I wish you marry very (very) soon and have many children. Then you call: Ashot – I return to Armenia with wife and children.’
We toast (again), downing more of the 25 year old herbal alcohol beverage dating back to his friend’s wedding. And all this takes place in the Dutch language in his friend’s living room. Armenian hospitality at it’s best.

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We met him in the mobile phone shop. James and I were huddled over our phones with super fast Internet like herion addicts getting our first hit for weeks, injected directly into the arm.
‘I saw James’ orange shirt and I thought – they are from Holland. I am so happy.’
I took over as the translator, and James and I found ourselves in Ashot’s humble abode eating sausages and bread, and drinking an almost pure alcohol vodka poured from a coke bottle. Then his friend came and we were invited to his place for even more hospitality.

Our friends in Vanadzor

Our friends in Vanadzor

In the living room, watched over by the dead parents’ portrait above the wall sized carpet hanging, Armenian music pumping out from the 5 thigh high loud speakers, we danced, hugging each other and collapsing into neighbouring armchairs. Ashot’s preficiency in Dutch meant we covered topics like the Armenian genocide, the role of the wife, and many configurations and permutations of how wonderful it is that we met and could share the first night of our lifelong friendship together.

Our friends in Vanadzor

Our friends in Vanadzor

And this, after a spectacular day cycling up an amazing cliff adorned valley in the beautiful warm sun and lovely tailwind.

I passed 8000km at a small village and celebrated with James and a young frenchman who is hitching around the world.

8000km

8000km

And then onwards and upwards. For this valley, it’s a case of pictures tell 1000 words.

Rubbish valley

Rubbish valley

Alaverdi

Alaverdi

Alaverdi

Alaverdi

The road to Vanadzor

The road to Vanadzor

The road to Vanadzor

The road to Vanadzor

Armenian hospitality and Armenian landscape. What a wonderful combination. As Ashot would say:
‘I wish you have many many special days like today!’


Our nice little camping spot on the lawns in front of an abandoned factory seemed high profile judging by the number of kids visiting us. The military also visited us – and kicked us out. We are now sleeping in someone’s house that is being renovated with a spectacular view over the mountains. This is called going with the flow.

Our living room in Ayrum

Our living room in Ayrum

Armenia on a sunny day. We were welcomed by the border guards with their impressive tall green hats. We collected some drams (the currency) and were on our way, following the border river.

Drams

Drams

The small village of Ayrum was chosen as our end point of the day. A kind lady who spoke German pointed out a nice abandoned factory with lots of lovely lawns for pitching a tent. On getting to the factory, we passed the army barracks. They wanted our sunglasses, and James obliged, giving a spare set of spacey sunglasses. I was allowed, then, to try out the beret.

Armenian beret

Armenian beret

So, they knew about us. And they knew where we were camping. We set up the tent, and the soldiers visited our campsite, together with the kids, multiple times. We also socialized with the neighbours – with all 3 generations.

The neighbours

The neighbours

On the 3rd visit from the soldiers, the boss told us we could not camp. We were near the Georgian border. (We weren’t.) Our neighbours spoke to the soldier – could we camp in their garden? No, said the soldier. So, we are now in their second house that they are renovating – up on the hill above the village. What lovely people!

Our Ayrum hosts

Our Ayrum hosts

View from our verandah

View from our verandah