Posts Tagged ‘Rushan’


The cyclists meet again at the famous touring cyclist hostel – the Pamir Lodge in Khorog. Everyone knows everyone either directly or through another cyclist or motorbiker. And everyone is doing bike maintenance. Khorog and the art of bicycle maintenance. Where have I heard that before?

The road ahead

The road ahead

One motorbiker was putting vegetable oil into his hydraulic gears. Reece, who I met again after our brief separation, was stitching up his tyre that had exploded (when a kid forced him into a massive pothole in the attempt to get a high-five). Maxime, who I met in Uzbekistan and again in Dushanbe was fixing a broken spoke. I swapped some tyres around on my bike, and put on some new brake pads. Also, we went for dinner – twice.

The road surface was quite good and flatter than it has been, and I was feeling better. I was able to speed through the 72km to Khorog by lunch time. Being flat, the regular 20m spurts of gravel, rocky, potholed road, requiring 5-10km/h speeds were less annoying. The surface was much better than a few days ago, where there was only gravel, rocky and potholed road. The valley remained beautiful, but wider than before.

Flowers in the valley

Flowers in the valley

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

I will probably spend a day of rest and recreation in Khorog tomorrow, and then on and up to the really high mountains of the Pamir.


Cycling through a haze in my brain, I plodded along the valley towards Khorog. I was not really present, just feeling weak after emptying my stomach at 1am last night. The kids tried to pull me back into the now – ‘Hello hello!’. ‘What is your name?’. ‘Otkyda?’ I retired for the afternoon in Rushan and slept for 4 hours between 1600 and 2000.

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

Our military hosts came this morning bearing more gifts – milk. Just what I felt like having. Reece needed to move on quickly today, and I wasn’t going to be able to do that, so we parted ways. As it turned out, we met repeatedly throughout the day. I was (very) slow, but steady. Reece was fast with lots of technical problems with his bike. Tomorrow on to Khorog.