Posts Tagged ‘Khorog’


One fine morning Happy Dolphin and Barf left Khorog to buy some cheap Chinese tyres and cycle to the roof of the world. Happy Dolphin felt pleased with his new name – the same as his cheap Chinese tyres. Barf had earned the name at 1am at the military base 4 days earlier. After a day of stitching tyres, Pamir stew lunches, and shoulder transport of bicycles over swinging bridges, Happy Dolphin and Barf set up tent in a wolf infested forest under a rock slide.

Barf

Barf

Reece’s stitched up tyre lasted about 40km. When changing to one of his Happy Dolphin cheap Chinese tyres, he spotted a rip and instead put on his other Happy Dolphin. His second Happy Dolphin is still of service.

While sitting in front of a little shop, gulping down a cola, we were invited to tea by the local village German teacher. Tea turned into lunch and a lovely talk with her daughter who dreams of travelling the world.

Dreaming of far-away places

Dreaming of far-away places

The cycle along the valley was stunning. The mountains got bigger and bigger, and the walls of rock higher and higher. The sun was shining, and the wind was gently blow us forward.

Road through the Pamirs

Road through the Pamirs

Towards the Pamir plateau

Towards the Pamir plateau

Our camping spot is across a swinging bridge. The bikes were transported across the bridge on our shoulders, and the bags one by one. A lovely spot.

Bridge to the campsite

Bridge to the campsite


The cyclists meet again at the famous touring cyclist hostel – the Pamir Lodge in Khorog. Everyone knows everyone either directly or through another cyclist or motorbiker. And everyone is doing bike maintenance. Khorog and the art of bicycle maintenance. Where have I heard that before?

The road ahead

The road ahead

One motorbiker was putting vegetable oil into his hydraulic gears. Reece, who I met again after our brief separation, was stitching up his tyre that had exploded (when a kid forced him into a massive pothole in the attempt to get a high-five). Maxime, who I met in Uzbekistan and again in Dushanbe was fixing a broken spoke. I swapped some tyres around on my bike, and put on some new brake pads. Also, we went for dinner – twice.

The road surface was quite good and flatter than it has been, and I was feeling better. I was able to speed through the 72km to Khorog by lunch time. Being flat, the regular 20m spurts of gravel, rocky, potholed road, requiring 5-10km/h speeds were less annoying. The surface was much better than a few days ago, where there was only gravel, rocky and potholed road. The valley remained beautiful, but wider than before.

Flowers in the valley

Flowers in the valley

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

I will probably spend a day of rest and recreation in Khorog tomorrow, and then on and up to the really high mountains of the Pamir.