Posts Tagged ‘Deh’


Cycling through a haze in my brain, I plodded along the valley towards Khorog. I was not really present, just feeling weak after emptying my stomach at 1am last night. The kids tried to pull me back into the now – ‘Hello hello!’. ‘What is your name?’. ‘Otkyda?’ I retired for the afternoon in Rushan and slept for 4 hours between 1600 and 2000.

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

Our military hosts came this morning bearing more gifts – milk. Just what I felt like having. Reece needed to move on quickly today, and I wasn’t going to be able to do that, so we parted ways. As it turned out, we met repeatedly throughout the day. I was (very) slow, but steady. Reece was fast with lots of technical problems with his bike. Tomorrow on to Khorog.


‘Are you OK?’ asked Reece.
‘No.’
‘Are you outside of the tent?’
‘Yes.’
Behind me was the dark mountainside in Tajikistan, opposite the looming black wall in Afghanistan, and above me the clear starry night. In front of me, one metre in front of the tent, I heaved out the vomit, wave after wave.

My little helpers

My little helpers

Our camping spot this morning was a short walk from a mine field. I discovered this on my sunrise walk, and promptly backtracked the way I had come. This is a serious border – between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Minefields, constant police checks, military patrolling up and down the roads, and sitting under trees, rifle in hand.

Mine field

Mine field

An early morning rise resulted in a late start after I replaced my tyre which had worn out, and Reece readjusted his gears. By departure it was already hot, and I felt it the whole day, getting weaker and weaker as time went by. I still felt quite good in the morning, and both Reece and I repeatedly cried out for joy as each new view unfolded. This is an amazing valley!

Afghanistan

Afghanistan

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

My little helpers

My little helpers