Posts Tagged ‘Ver’


My ex called them ‘brain f*cks’. Worrying about something incessantly – something you wish you hadn’t done but now can’t change. I worried for ages about the unfiltered water I drank from the kind Pamir people last night. Slowly my mind cleared as I climbed the valley today, and once again revelled in its beauty.

Around 3500m.

Around 3500m.

I marvel the touring cyclists around me. With exploded tyres, they stitch them together and take off down the most corrugated roads of the planet without a worry. They are all a carefree, take-it-as-it-comes bunch. I take two spare tyres and numerous inner tubes and still worry.
When filtering water last night, a local woman warned me of camping where we were due to wolves. ‘Ah. We have been camping with wolves all the way,’ said Reece. He is right.
The woman told me that I should have some ‘good’ water from her house. Clean water. Drinking water. Before I knew it, all my bottles were filled with clean looking water from the little stream running past their house. Just the sort of stream that I would normally have filtered. They have a cow. Roaming upstream from the water. How much do the people know about hepatitis? I drank the water, and my mind went in a spin until this afternoon. Having overcome the fear of actually doing this world cycle trip, I still have returns of these mind f*cks. There have been some worriers in my family. I don’t want to be one..

I find myself tonight in an old, dilapidated hot spring ‘hotel’ from the communist times. The actual hot water from the springs is too hot to enter, and is in a mouldy pool that has seen better times. The outside toilet block is a first for me. Three squat toilets next to each other with no dividing walls. I’ve heard more of that is coming in China. Yay! ☺

On mind f*ck days, I am happy to have a roof over my head. Tomorrow I’m going over the first serious high pass – over 4200m. I’m interested to see how that goes.

The underbelly

The underbelly

The valley

The valley

Rain is coming

Rain is coming


One fine morning Happy Dolphin and Barf left Khorog to buy some cheap Chinese tyres and cycle to the roof of the world. Happy Dolphin felt pleased with his new name – the same as his cheap Chinese tyres. Barf had earned the name at 1am at the military base 4 days earlier. After a day of stitching tyres, Pamir stew lunches, and shoulder transport of bicycles over swinging bridges, Happy Dolphin and Barf set up tent in a wolf infested forest under a rock slide.

Barf

Barf

Reece’s stitched up tyre lasted about 40km. When changing to one of his Happy Dolphin cheap Chinese tyres, he spotted a rip and instead put on his other Happy Dolphin. His second Happy Dolphin is still of service.

While sitting in front of a little shop, gulping down a cola, we were invited to tea by the local village German teacher. Tea turned into lunch and a lovely talk with her daughter who dreams of travelling the world.

Dreaming of far-away places

Dreaming of far-away places

The cycle along the valley was stunning. The mountains got bigger and bigger, and the walls of rock higher and higher. The sun was shining, and the wind was gently blow us forward.

Road through the Pamirs

Road through the Pamirs

Towards the Pamir plateau

Towards the Pamir plateau

Our camping spot is across a swinging bridge. The bikes were transported across the bridge on our shoulders, and the bags one by one. A lovely spot.

Bridge to the campsite

Bridge to the campsite