Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


A day on the road. Cycling along the border between acceptable weather and crap weather, we missed the rain, but didn’t swim either. James passed the 6 megametre mark. We are staying at an almost closed camping ground near Kavala. A rather uneventful day.

The Greek coast

The Greek coast

The cheesecake James made to celebrate his 6 megametre (6000km) mark didn’t set, so, we had to settle for 2 chocolate milkshakes, a chocolate milk, a salty yogurt drink, a coffee and a salty cheese pastry instead.

James' 6000km mark

James’ 6000km mark

Our camping ground is rather abandoned, only patrolled by hoards of cats that fight amongst themselves to earn the right to torment us having our dinner. Tomorrow up with the chickens on the way to Bulgaria.


The mist and grey skies have returned. As have the busy roads and factories. Onwards as fast as possible watching the death wishes of the mad Greek drivers.

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‘I’ve had it. I’ve cycled 15000km around Europe and once I get to Istanbul, I’ll throw my bike into the Bosphorus.’
The English cycler we met today wasn’t enjoying his trip. James and I found it hard to say why he is doing it. While removing layers at a bus stop I spotted him. A long distance cyclist with lots of luggage. My squeal of excitement didn’t last long as he proceeded to cycle right past us. Later we saw him and heard all his misery. The whole trip sucked. He had cycled a big loop around Europe from Scandinavia to here. He didn’t ask where we were going.

We are camped on a football field at the beach patrolled by a white cat. James revealed some ouzo, and then made a cake to celebrate his upcoming 6000km mark.

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Day 59. 24km. Thessaloniki

Posted: November 12, 2014 in Cycling, Greece
Tags: , ,

We ended up staying in Thessaloniki, not that it was planned that way. A slow start, cycle down to the centre, and an extended stay in the bike shop resulted in 2 happy cyclists, 2 repaired cycles and a lovely evening in Thessaloniki with James contemplating life, the universe, everything, and how amazingly happy we are with life.

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

A great evening with Ioanna in her local restaurant resulted in us meeting Lefteris – the cook of the wonderful food, who had a friend Akis who is the best bike mechanic in Greece. Today we found ourselves having a bike repair, basking in the sun, and watching the beautiful people walk by day, generally enjoying life. Drahtesel is now fitted out with a new tyre and brake pads, ready to stop (which was almost not the case) in the next torrential downpour.

Akis and Drahtesel

Akis and Drahtesel

My ex-colleagues at AUTH (University of Thessaloniki)

My ex-colleagues at AUTH (University of Thessaloniki)

Lunch waiting for the Drahtesel repairs

Lunch waiting for the Drahtesel repairs

Approaching sunset in Thessaloniki

Approaching sunset in Thessaloniki


Sometimes it is not about the journey, but about the destination. Today was not as wet, and the road was straight and flat. Extremely uninspiring landscape under grey skies. We moved into overdrive, and steamed along the semi-freeway, though industrial areas to Thessaloniki. It is great to see Ioanna again from my past life working for Philips and the HeartCycle EU Project.

Some industry

Some industry

We caught our first glimpse of the sea since Montenegro.

On the Aegean Sea

On the Aegean Sea

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

James and I bought a little gift for Ioanna. Something to tweet about!

Something to tweet about

Something to tweet about

Ioanna and Tweety

Ioanna and Tweety

Looking out over Thessaloniki with Ioanna

Looking out over Thessaloniki with Ioanna

And we practiced our camp cheesecake. We are now all ready to celebrate Jame’s 6000km and my 5000km.

Cheesecake

Cheesecake


Today we found the three wise men, bearing kajmak, Choco Lips and Šir. One of them gave us quite a shock. The Gods also delivered water in copious quantities today, direct from the heavens. James and I both agree, through, that rain is preferable to a head-wind. We are now snuggled up in front of a wood fire in Edessa.

The four wise men

The four wise men

The local priest was lovely, letting us camp in front of the church, use the toilet, and he even gave us a loaf of bread. Great guy!

The priest

The priest

The rain was relentless today, meaning that we stopped frequently to warm up and drink some coffee (James) and hot chocolate (me). We were showered with gifts in Arnissa – local apples and liqueur. We are receiving a warm welcome in an unfortunately wet country.

Planning our route forward

Planning our route forward

And there is nothing better than sitting in front of a wood fire after a wet day on the road. 🙂

Our guesthouse in Edessa

Our guesthouse in Edessa


Grey, wind, gloom. Goce joined us to the Greek border before we continued along the straight, flat road into the headwind. It was totally uninspiring and we had to push ourselves (me especially) to get some kilometres done.

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It is amazing the difference the weather makes. It didn’t rain, but it was cold with a fairly strong headwind. The grey skies and mood made the farmland landscape unenergizing.

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Still, we did enter a new country – Greece.

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We stopped in a small village and were allowed to camp on the lawns in front of a church. A storm will be cooked up shortly.

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It is a different feeling cycling in a grey, overcast, cold landscape. Sleeping in and eating is more appealing than cycling. We made our way to Bitola and called it a day. We had a lovely evening with Goce – our warm shower host in Bitola. Greece tomorrow.

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The summer infrastructure of our resort also felt grey in the cloudy skies.

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We crossed some plains, and then climbed over a pass of over 1100m before dropping into Bitola.

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A lovely evening chatting and eating with Goce and his father. We had ijvar – a secret Macedonian fondue. Yummy.

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It was Mr. Harris, with the inner tent in the bedroom. Staying in the Cluedo murder mystery, back to the 70s lake resort, James and I reminisce the fantasmogorical day cycling around and then up over the stunning Lake Ohrid.

Drahtesel preparing herself for the climb

Drahtesel preparing herself for the climb

I don’t know where to start. Pictures tell more than 1048 words. We pfaffed around at the beautiful camping spot overlooking Lake Ohrid, watching the sunrise, and listening to our stomachs advising us to eat a hamburger for breakfast.

Sunrise at our campsite on Lake Ohrid

Sunrise at our campsite on Lake Ohrid

A quick stop-off at Viagra Beach before pigging out in Ohrid town.

Viagra Beach

Viagra Beach

Ohrid town

Ohrid town

Pigging out in Ohrid

Pigging out in Ohrid

Ohrid town

Ohrid town

Ohrid town

Ohrid town

And then the most glorious amazing climb up to 1600m in the soft, orange evening sun, with a view to die for over Lake Ohrid. Man, this ride was amazing.

Spot James

Spot James

Some curves in the road

Some curves in the road

I'm the king of the world!

I’m the king of the world!

Approaching the summit

Approaching the summit

The summit

The summit

The view the other side

The view the other side

With darkness approaching, we scooted down the mountain. Our first choice of lodgings was in an abandoned hotel on the lake shore. After a minor incident with a dog, where my loud screaming finally scared away the growling, teeth-bearing dog, we opted to continue down the road along the lake in the dark. We are staying in a luxurious resort from the 70s, ideal for an Agatha Christie novel. It was Dr. Harris, with the inner-tent in the bedroom.

The murder weapon

The murder weapon

James leaving the scene of the crime - the bedroom

James leaving the scene of the crime – the bedroom

On the way to dinner

On the way to dinner

Phoning for help

Phoning for help


Welcome to Macedonia, and hello again, James. In Macedonia the roads are smoother and built such they are less steep although the landscape is the same. A walk in the park as I cruised along a gorgeous valley in the sun to Lake Ohrid where I joined forces with James again.

Our tents on Lake Ohrid

Our tents on Lake Ohrid

James had described it, and it was true. Everything changed at the border. It is probably mostly in the mind, but, I too, felt more relaxed. Everything felt more orderly, better built, and more relaxed.

I passed a few milestones. Firstly, country number 13.

Country number 12. Macedonia

Country number 12. Macedonia

Then 4000km with a nice view out over a lake.

The 4000km mark

The 4000km mark

While cruising along the road through the valley, nestled between steep, high mountains, I could only try to compare and determine what is different. Why is it so easy cycling here? Why is the road less steep? Well, the road didn’t suddenly drop to cross every little stream, but rather there were some (slightly) longer bridges. The road was also cut into the mountain more, meaning that not every bump needed to be traversed. Whatever it was, I zoomed along and was chatting to James at lunch. I put my tent up next to his with a view out over Lake Ohrid, and we spent hours sharing stories and making plans going forward.

Lake in Macedonia

Lake in Macedonia


Indecision and paranoia. I ended up cycling up ‘Samsung Galaxy’ valley seeing trouble everywhere where there was none. I had to use my people judgement today, trust someone, and follow my intuition. I am still here, so I guess it worked out OK.

Some vertical metres

Some vertical metres

The bus I wanted to take on this beautiful, sunny day, was leaving at 13.00. It was 7:30, and the café where my bike was, was very smoky. Outside, where there should have been fresh air, there was a noisy generator running with nasty fumes. I went to a neighbouring café, also with a generator, and spoke to some locals. One spoke very good English, and I felt was more trustworthy. There is no problem on the road to Peshkopi. I am very safe.

(On a side note: It turns out all cafes in Albania have generators running out the front. This is because they have to pay much more for electricity that everyone else. As a consequence, they don’t pay, and generate their own electricity, spending 3 euros a day on kerosene.)

Yesterday a boy took a photo with himself, me and Drahtesel and posted it on Facebook. This meant that I was known through the valley. I understand no Albanian, but I heard ‘Samsung Galaxy’ interspersed in the conversation, and interest in my phone everywhere I went. My friend Mr. Problem had said ‘phone’, and then indicated – stolen, gone. That’s all I could think of. In reality, the kids were just being kids. Joking around, and interested in a novelty (me).

Kids said, ‘remember me?’, and invited me in for coffee or a drink. Me, Mr Paranoid just continued. I don’t like this about myself. I feel the paranoia gone now.

It was a beautiful road, but, my, it was very, very steep and it went up and down and up and down – 100s of metres at a time. I feel very fit – me and Drahtesel make a good team!

The road to Peshkopi

The road to Peshkopi

The road to Peshkopi

The road to Peshkopi

The road to Peshkopi

The road to Peshkopi

The road to Peshkopi

The road to Peshkopi