Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


‘It’s a big switchback – just skirting around a stream – probably not very steep.’ We chuckled later as we gazed towards the heavens, admiring the switchback from below. We climbed very high, and are in awe at the beauty of this valley.

Looking down at our climb

Looking down at our climb

I am the pupil and this terrain is my teacher. I have not cycled along such roads – my bike and myself are rattled to the bones. I lost a pannier screw, and had to use a less crucial screw from another pannier as a replacement. The muddy sludge wedged its way between the tyre and the mud-guards and break pads. I had to regularly squirt them down to keep the wheel turning. Stream crossings also helped in dislodging the mud.
I have not cycled past such remote villages where the shops are bare – the people grow and make their own food. My food stocks are dwindling as the shops only have lollies and biscuits (and soap, fluffy teddy bears and Barbie dolls). Lucky we bought pasta earlier.
People don’t drink bottled water (which is good). I feel bad about having used bottled water up to now. So many plastic bottles (even if I always disposed of them correctly). I now filter the stream water – with my very very slow filter. You realise the importance of water when you have to squeeze every drop you drink through a ceramic filter. And scaling mountains is thirsty work.

On the way

On the way

Outside the shop

Outside the shop

We are staying in an abandoned hut high above the valley. What a spectacular place to have dinner and sleep. We are truly blessed.

Our dinner view

Our dinner view


It is not going to rain. I think we are near the top. It should be an easy day. We can go for an early morning swim in the lake, and then amble on into the town. Even with the bad road surface, we should be able to manage 70-80km. Famous last words. But it was an amazing day.

The road to the Pamirs

The road to the Pamirs

I had an exciting night holding my tent into position against the strong winds. A slow morning of breakfasting and then fixing a flat tyre protected from the rain by a tree meant that today was never going to be a kilometre rich day. But we didn’t want it to be one. With such a beautiful valley unfolding before us, what better way to enjoy it than to meander slowly.

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

We were invited in for tea by some kids. A game of zombies was a big hit.

The kids that invited us in for chai

The kids that invited us in for chai

Zombies

Zombies

After having cycled a whole 16km, we stopped for lunch and a swim at a lake. The thunder roared as we splashed around in the lake, and it pissed down as we curled up on a bed inside the restaurant, and decided to sleep a bit.

Thunderstorm sleep

Thunderstorm sleep

Tonight we find ourselves in an unfinished shop in a little village. Outside the rain is pattering on the roof, and we lie warm in our sleeping bags, fed with some bread and yoghurt. Life is good.


Today. A toilet audience. A wheel jammed in the gutter. A presidential 12000km from Eindhoven celebration. A belly of berries. A wind in all directions. Scree-slope roads. Climbs and drops. The mountains are getting bigger. I liked today.

Berries

Berries

He was sitting on the ridge – the little shepherd boy. From his perch he could see everything. Every possible toilet spot. And I needed to go. We often get audiences. Often kids. They just stand there and watch.

Our camping spot

Our camping spot

We only needed to go 4km today for me to reach 12000km from Eindhoven. At the 11999km mark I was greeted twice by a billboard of the Tajikistan president – one standing in a field of tulips, and one 500m further on holding some equipment while inspecting some engineering project. I was disappointed that he waited until 12001km before congratulating me with another billboard. Still, it had all the bells and whistles – and flags.

12001km

12001km

The president

The president

Reece got stuck in the gutter while getting back from the presidential address.

Reece in the gutter

Reece in the gutter

Today was a day of climbing (and even more often, descending) in the scree. It made for some slow going, but gave me a sense of achievement for getting through it.

A hot climb

A hot climb

Lovely view

Lovely view

Sunset

Sunset

And today was a day of mountains of berries – we bought some from some little girls at our lunch stop.

Eating berries

Eating berries


The third farewell and best wishes were made. The group of cyclists gathered at Vero’s had reached 12. We joked about my tent being eaten by the turtle and took more photos. Finally, after 3 nights in Dushanbe I find myself on my way to the Pamir Mountains with a new cycling partner – Reece.

The cycling gang at Vero's

The cycling gang at Vero’s

We had all heard of each other.
‘Ah – you are the Australian who got held up at the Iranian border.’
They had heard of me through Monique – a French cyclist they had met, and who I had met twice – in Bukhara and in Samarqand. I met ‘the’ Swiss couple and the Belgian couple. Each had already heard the other’s stories from this closed group of Pamir cyclists.

Reece and I set off, not realising that the road climbed and climbed and climbed. We thought that happened 100km later. The mountains are just starting now, and we have an amazing camping spot next to a bendy river. Fed and cleaned (by the water fight we had in the river), we are ready for bed.

On the road

On the road


I walked through the door piercing the surrounding high wall, and entered touring cyclist paradise. Vero and her house and garden are famous – all touring cyclists come here before setting out on the Pamir Highway. And here I am, little Matthew. I’m about to set out on the Pamir Highway!

Vero giving us tips on the Pamir Highway

Vero giving us tips on the Pamir Highway

Three young French cyclists ushered me in, bikes in hand. These bikes looked hard-core, with tyres wide enough to fit on a small car. As I entered in further, more bikes were hanging around. In front of me was a beautiful verandah with armchairs and couches, and a big garden full of cyclist’s tents. Another cyclist was sitting on the verandah reading. A parrot in a cage welcomed me as I was shown inside.

I had heard of Vero from other cyclists on the way. Famous like Akbar in Marand, all cyclists find themselves staying here. I spent the evening sharing stories and dreams with the other cyclists, and before I knew it, it was bed-time.

Its great to be cool again. After my heat-stroke (was it that?), I stayed in Denov for a day, mostly lying in front of the fan, or sitting inside the air-conditioned supermarket. In the evening the cool change rolled in, and it was wonderful. I cycled to Dushanbe through the haze into a headwind, but was happy. It was cool again!


Surreal scenes of waterfalls, greenery, skies with fluffy clouds. In the foreground lions, maidens with milk jugs or kingfishers with freshly caught fish. These posters hang proudly in every café, hotel and restaurant. Today I dreamed about the cool water in the scene, tried to ignore the whoozy stomach and lethargy, and lay down to rest in front of the fan. Today was scorching.

Waterfall paradise

Waterfall paradise

The sun was blazing down, the road rose and fell in an undulating, dry, barren landscape. The road surface was horrendous, and I felt nauseous. It was 12:30 and I pulled into the first café I saw and flaked out on the carpet couch. I couldn’t face anything to eat. I just sipped on a cold bottle of Coke.

Midday rest

Midday rest

After a couple of hours, I managed to put away an ice-cream and some salad, and didn’t feel so hot and lack-lustre. Then a commotion outside. A second cyclist – Maxime from France. A cycling partner for the day.

Then we ran into another 3 cyclists coming the other direction. We chatted in the shade of some trees, putting off the departure back into the heat.

Before the heat struck, it was a lovely descent from Boysun into a surreal landscape – big bumps in the landscape, and a mountain range of plates of rock sticking up from the plains at an obscure angle.

Bumpy landscape

Bumpy landscape

Donkey

Donkey

The road has everything

The road has everything

Tomorrow Tajikistan if I am up to leaving the hotel.


Uphill again into the town of Boysun. There were rumours of a B&B registered for tourists. I had made the major climbs in the early morning and in the late afternoon, but still, I was knackered. Then a boy jumped out.
‘Hotel?’
‘Yes!’

Landscape near Boysun

Landscape near Boysun

Cycling in the mountains and heat takes planning. On the menu today was a big climb, a big drop, and a second big climb. This was done on a mixed bag of brand new roads and bumpy, rocky, sandy affairs. Its nice being in the mountains again. Lovely views, and it is not quite so hot.

Approaching the pass

Approaching the pass

Mountain ridge

Mountain ridge

Herder

Herder

My standard 3 hour afternoon rest/sleep. This time I was harassed by flies – and they bite!

Midday rest

Midday rest

My B&B has found a niche in the market – cycling tourists that are required to stay in registered hotels by the Uzbekistan government. Apparently there are cyclists most nights this time of year.


I’m on the cycle road to Dushanbe. I hear word of other cyclists that have passed. People are not surprised by my destination. Cycle in the morning. Sleep after lunch. Cold shower and then on into the evening. Cycling in the central Asian heat.

Midday rest

Midday rest

Today I was given a screw. A kind gentleman helped me out at the garage when I discovered a screw had come loose and fallen off making my front pannier wave around. Today I was given a piece of watermelon. And today I was given lots of encouragement toots.

Watermelon

Watermelon

And I am happy. I’ve left the endless hot, flat plains. I’ve climbed into the hills. It doesn’t feel so stiflingly hot and the scenery is nicer. Bring on the Pamir Mountains!

Up from the plains

Up from the plains


Campsite

Campsite


Burnt and frazzled, I sit in my hotel in Qashi which is registered to host foreigners. Note to self: sun-screen bought in Uzbekistan does not work. Second note to self: allow 2 hours to find a hotel able to host foreigners. Officially I need to stay and register in a hotel every night. Tomorrow night I am camping.

That golden smile

That golden smile

Central Asia is heating up. After noon it is like a furnace, and any self-respecting cyclist is having a siesta – or trying to – lying on a carpet sofa being offered vodka, and discussing German football.

A 3-hour lunch-time break was opted for when I noticed my arms were bright red. My newly bought sunscreen seemed to have no effect – certainly not the SPF60 claimed on the tube. I told the people with the vodka of this – Uzekistan sunscreen no good. Shocked and insulted they investigated the tube – it’s made it India. Not Uzbekistan. Relief.

I was told that when in a big city I need to stay in a hotel and register (as there is a hotel, and there is no excuse not to use it). After Qashi, hotels are a bit thin on the ground, so I can camp and have a good excuse at the border. Well, try to find the hotel in Qashi. A first random cycle around resulted in nothing. Asking someone for a hotel meant that I sat in his office while he phoned some people to find out. I then was taken to a hotel – one which is not allowed to house foreigners. They took me to a second – which is also not allowed to house foreigners. I am staying at the third. I’m looking forward to my tent tomorrow. No hassle.


With a bit of time on my hands, and a good internet connection, I have put together a video of the next leg of my bike trip. See what you think.. 🙂