Posts Tagged ‘Yozgand’


‘It’s a big switchback – just skirting around a stream – probably not very steep.’ We chuckled later as we gazed towards the heavens, admiring the switchback from below. We climbed very high, and are in awe at the beauty of this valley.

Looking down at our climb

Looking down at our climb

I am the pupil and this terrain is my teacher. I have not cycled along such roads – my bike and myself are rattled to the bones. I lost a pannier screw, and had to use a less crucial screw from another pannier as a replacement. The muddy sludge wedged its way between the tyre and the mud-guards and break pads. I had to regularly squirt them down to keep the wheel turning. Stream crossings also helped in dislodging the mud.
I have not cycled past such remote villages where the shops are bare – the people grow and make their own food. My food stocks are dwindling as the shops only have lollies and biscuits (and soap, fluffy teddy bears and Barbie dolls). Lucky we bought pasta earlier.
People don’t drink bottled water (which is good). I feel bad about having used bottled water up to now. So many plastic bottles (even if I always disposed of them correctly). I now filter the stream water – with my very very slow filter. You realise the importance of water when you have to squeeze every drop you drink through a ceramic filter. And scaling mountains is thirsty work.

On the way

On the way

Outside the shop

Outside the shop

We are staying in an abandoned hut high above the valley. What a spectacular place to have dinner and sleep. We are truly blessed.

Our dinner view

Our dinner view


It is not going to rain. I think we are near the top. It should be an easy day. We can go for an early morning swim in the lake, and then amble on into the town. Even with the bad road surface, we should be able to manage 70-80km. Famous last words. But it was an amazing day.

The road to the Pamirs

The road to the Pamirs

I had an exciting night holding my tent into position against the strong winds. A slow morning of breakfasting and then fixing a flat tyre protected from the rain by a tree meant that today was never going to be a kilometre rich day. But we didn’t want it to be one. With such a beautiful valley unfolding before us, what better way to enjoy it than to meander slowly.

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

We were invited in for tea by some kids. A game of zombies was a big hit.

The kids that invited us in for chai

The kids that invited us in for chai

Zombies

Zombies

After having cycled a whole 16km, we stopped for lunch and a swim at a lake. The thunder roared as we splashed around in the lake, and it pissed down as we curled up on a bed inside the restaurant, and decided to sleep a bit.

Thunderstorm sleep

Thunderstorm sleep

Tonight we find ourselves in an unfinished shop in a little village. Outside the rain is pattering on the roof, and we lie warm in our sleeping bags, fed with some bread and yoghurt. Life is good.