I walked through the door piercing the surrounding high wall, and entered touring cyclist paradise. Vero and her house and garden are famous – all touring cyclists come here before setting out on the Pamir Highway. And here I am, little Matthew. I’m about to set out on the Pamir Highway!
Three young French cyclists ushered me in, bikes in hand. These bikes looked hard-core, with tyres wide enough to fit on a small car. As I entered in further, more bikes were hanging around. In front of me was a beautiful verandah with armchairs and couches, and a big garden full of cyclist’s tents. Another cyclist was sitting on the verandah reading. A parrot in a cage welcomed me as I was shown inside.
I had heard of Vero from other cyclists on the way. Famous like Akbar in Marand, all cyclists find themselves staying here. I spent the evening sharing stories and dreams with the other cyclists, and before I knew it, it was bed-time.
Its great to be cool again. After my heat-stroke (was it that?), I stayed in Denov for a day, mostly lying in front of the fan, or sitting inside the air-conditioned supermarket. In the evening the cool change rolled in, and it was wonderful. I cycled to Dushanbe through the haze into a headwind, but was happy. It was cool again!