Posts Tagged ‘Akbalik’


The plain was wide – sometimes grassy, sometimes just rock and sand. On both sides were rocky, snow-capped mountains. The sky was blue with beautiful white clouds. And the wind was at our back. Every bend in the road opened up a new stunning vista. I cycled the most beautiful road of my life with three others, and my, we had a day to remember.

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

We were prepared for the lonely road – no human life and no water for 100km to Murghab. Every now and then we spotted a lonesome yurt off the road and away from the bustle of the thoroughfare. This place is remote – a desert highland tucked away in a lost corner of central Asia. This is part of the appeal. So far from anywhere. Sitting in the little hut last night with the wind whistling outside, warmth radiating from the wood stove, one is at peace with the universe. On the Pamir Plateau, I am at peace with the universe, and at peace with myself.

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

The road to Murghab

Murghab

Murghab


I was the one with altitude sickness today. I had a headache at midnight, and took altitude sickness tablets at 5am. The day was a headache blur in the dormitory bedroom surrounded by posters of far-away waterfalls and bowls of fruit. To get away, I cycled 13km through the snow to the last hut of humanity for 100km.

My humble abode for the night

My humble abode for the night

Reece had improved before me, and left to make it to the bottom of the next pass on the way to Murghab. I stayed in indecision, seeing the horizontal sleet and snow outside. There was ‘maybe’ the hut I had heard of down the road to stay. After that, there would be nothing. I wanted to move on. I knew I was still recovering from altitude sickness. I didn’t want to camp outside tonight. I left in a break from the snow, and was blown along by my friend the tailwind to the most lovely little hut on the high Pamir plain.

View from my abode

View from my abode

The little kids in the hut were lovely. They cycled around on my bike, and even filtered water for me.

The kids

The kids

The new cyclist

The new cyclist

And then rolled in the cycle tourists. A group of 3 – from South Korea, Ireland and America. Some more cycling partners for the next days. Let’s see.