Posts Tagged ‘Alichur’


I was the one with altitude sickness today. I had a headache at midnight, and took altitude sickness tablets at 5am. The day was a headache blur in the dormitory bedroom surrounded by posters of far-away waterfalls and bowls of fruit. To get away, I cycled 13km through the snow to the last hut of humanity for 100km.

My humble abode for the night

My humble abode for the night

Reece had improved before me, and left to make it to the bottom of the next pass on the way to Murghab. I stayed in indecision, seeing the horizontal sleet and snow outside. There was ‘maybe’ the hut I had heard of down the road to stay. After that, there would be nothing. I wanted to move on. I knew I was still recovering from altitude sickness. I didn’t want to camp outside tonight. I left in a break from the snow, and was blown along by my friend the tailwind to the most lovely little hut on the high Pamir plain.

View from my abode

View from my abode

The little kids in the hut were lovely. They cycled around on my bike, and even filtered water for me.

The kids

The kids

The new cyclist

The new cyclist

And then rolled in the cycle tourists. A group of 3 – from South Korea, Ireland and America. Some more cycling partners for the next days. Let’s see.


The Pamir plateau is spectacularly beautiful. Two passes around 4200m and some awful road later, we passed the crest and saw the most amazing vista of rolling sandy plains with a beautiful deep blue lake, surrounded by high, towering peaks. Reece’s head was thumping, The altitude sickness may force him down tomorrow.

The Pamir plateau

The Pamir plateau

Reece had a splitting headache, and the road was unforgiving. A sandy, rocky ascent to 4271m, then after a sandy rocky descent, another bumpy ascent to 4200m. Very exhausting, but surrounded by the most beautiful landscape.

Province border

Province border

A steep climb

A steep climb

The Pamir plateau

The Pamir plateau

Reece on the Pamir plateau

Reece on the Pamir plateau

In Alichur Reece and I went to the doctor. He has some emergency tablets, and plans to descend tomorrow.