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Day 3 of England cycle: Canterbury to Calais (60km)

Posted: May 13, 2013 in Cycling, England, France
Tags: Cycling, England

A pleasant day with no stress. No concrete deadlines saw us meander our way to Dover. Yes. Let’s pass through Sandwich and Deal. A late afternoon boat brought me back to the mainland.

No super early rise. I first left the tent at 7 and left by 10:30 or so. After about 3 km we were in Canterbury, and stopped at the cathedral. We were befriended by a ginger cat. Just something for me.

The cat in Canterbury cathedral

My souvenir from Canterbury is a beefeater cigarette lighter (for lighting my new stove). Before arriving, Chris warned how all the tourist shops are full of souvenir paraphernalia – from London. Now, every time I cook on my summer trip I will remember the long weekend trip in England. With souvenir shopping and grocery shopping (my snack bag needed continuous filling up), we didn’t leave Canterbury before 12. You could tell we were not in a hurry. But that is OK.

Following a more or less straight route to Dover, we passed a signpost – Sandwich 6 miles. My, that was close. We decided to go there. The first time we had a real tailwind – and it was lovely. Cruising uphill at 25-30 km/h. Downhill much faster. Sandwich was soon upon us. Then along the coast to Deal, where we had lunch is a cosy little place overlooking the sea. Despite not cycling much, we were both hungry. After bubble and squeak I ordered a chocolate cake. Chris did too.

The cake is mine!

The coast turned, and our final leg from Deal to Dover was not only up and up, but against a crushing headwind. The same wind that would blow me home tomorrow.

On reaching the top of the white cliffs of Dover, we saw a boat coming in. That could be my boat. Taking the shortcut down to the harbour (carrying our bikes) I made it to board that same boat.

My boat arrives in Dover

I booked a hotel in Calais, and slogged against the now gale force winds from the harbour to the city to take my refuge for the night.

Day 2 of England cycle: Chelmsford – Canterbury (125km)

Posted: May 11, 2013 in Cycling, England
Tags: Cycling, England

An early train from London to Chelmsford to join Chris on the second day of my England cycle trip. The weather got better and better and a side/tail wind soared our spirits.

A breakfast of porridge at Chris’ and I got to meet Val, after having heard so much about her. It rained during breakfast, but Val ordered nice weather for our trip, and it came to pass.

It was a very varied trip. We stated crossing with the horses.

A little ferry trip across the Thames brought us into Kent.

Then an interesting path through the docks.

The weather really became lovely as we meandered through the fields.

And then we stopped for a late lunch at Rochester. Lovely.

Kent also has its fair share of mud flats. We followed a windy road around the coast, passing lots of ship wrecks.

The cycle got nicer and nicer in the evening light. The route 1 twisted and turned through fields, over dikes, and over rolling hills.

Light was running out, and we left route 1 to make some speed to get to a camping ground at Canterbury.

I used my new whisperlight cooker, new pots and new tent for the first time. All passed the test. My test is now approved wind and rain resistant. Yes. It rained at night. 🙂

Day 1 of England cycle: Harwich – Chelmsford – London (150km )

Posted: May 11, 2013 in Cycling, England
Tags: Cycling, England

Up bright and early, rising from my spaceous cabin on the Hoek van Holland – Harwich ferry, I battled into the wind across the pleasant English fields to London.

Travelling on the ferry – a massive ship full of shopping and entertainment possibilities – sweeps you away into the holiday spirit. Excited families wander around the multiple decks passing away the time on the overnight voyage. I had a wonderful cabin with shower all to myself. I got an early night for the 5:30 breakfast.

It was sunny in the early morning as I rode off the ferry and turned off onto national cycle path one that took me into Harwich centre along a lovely wooded path.

I was accompanied with a gale force headwind. In Norway I learned a kind of zen acceptance of this. The scenery is beautiful and the wind just means you enjoy it longer. A lot longer.

I followed national cycle route 1 through lots of fields yellow with rape seed.

Route 1 is rather circuitous as it meanders through the countryside. At times I thought it can’t be right as it lead me miles off track. My Google maps route took me to a dual carriageway. In this era of GPS, asking can still be the best way forward.

Lunch became a late lunch as it was such slow going to get to Chelmsford where Chris lives. He came especially from work to welcome me.

Then on to London to visit Leigh. Chris gave me a pleasant and not too long route into London. My plans of cycling past all the tourist attractions before going to Leigh’s were dashed by the wind. Traffic lights were shaking in its force and a double decker bus swayed. The wind made me somewhat later than planned. 🙂

It was good to see Leigh again.

Day 3 of Eindhoven – Paris by bike: Guise – Paris (205 km)

Posted: May 5, 2013 in Cycling, France
Tags: Cycling, France, Paris

I was awake before the sun. It was crisp – well, cold outside. My tent had a layer of ice as I left it to start my morning ritual. Today was a long and eventful day. It saw me cycle 205 km into the Parisian dusk.

Trip map and gpx.

The sky was clear, and the sun threw a long shadow and a beautiful soft light as I cycled through the pretty little village of Guise and through the fields.

Guise in the soft morning light

Fields in the early morning

The scenery was serene as I followed the Oise river in the sun. Unfortunately the wind had changed direction, and I now had a head wind. That, and the up and down (chopping off some of the meanderings of the river), it was slow going. But, all was better after stopping at a little boulangerie in a little village and buying a beautiful baguette sandwich and some other tasty morsels. And then eating them on some stairs in front of the boulangerie in the sun. This is France!

Fields

Then the irritation begun. I left my planned route (although I don’t think it existed in real life anyway), and found myself on a main road with trucks whizzing by. Attempts to leave the road resulted in crawling along stony sandy paths that meandered along getting nowhere slowly. Then the planned route (eurovelo) followed a canal. Only, there was no path that didn’t fizzle out. And then there was one, but, it was blocked by massive works on a bridge. There were also ‘no entry’ signs on the canal road, so, there was definitely no guarantee of the road not being blocked again. And the wind was strong, and blowing directly into my face.

Stretches of the canal were suddenly beautiful bike paths – from Appilly to Sempigny. And then, there was another massive bridge works. I crossed that bridge on the narrow pedestrian passage, lugging the bike up a narrow, steep and windy staircase – 3 times. Then the clouds got darker, the wind picked up, and I found myself contemplating a very busy road. Stop, Matthew. Time to eat. Frustration. Anger. Everything sucks. This is lack of sugar. You know that. I ate some müsli bars, and everything seemed better.

My trip to the massive supermarket saw me buy vast quantities of müsli bars. Enough to last the whole year. I still haven’t learned to counter the urge to buy the whole shop when hungry. After a proper lunch, the main road and head wind didn’t bother me, and before I knew it, I was in Compiegne.

The final blow was when I saw a sign – Paris 69km. It was already quite late in the afternoon. I wasn’t going to make it. And, then, the wind changed – it became a tail wind. I left the main road and was blown across beautiful fields, and through lovely villages, past beautiful castles. Life was better again, and I was cycling to Paris! Yay!

Castle

The big question was: could I get into Paris without going along an almost freeway? All roads become main freeways near Paris. My planned route had me going along a canal all the way into Paris. I didn’t believe that, though.. But, there it was. A beautifully signed and cared for bike path, just where it was meant to be. And it took me all the way into Paris.

It got darker and darker, but I was on the home stretch, and I had a tail wind. I hurtled along the canal. On and on. Passing runners, cyclists, fishermen, lovers sitting admiring the waters. It was a beautiful sunset. A bright pink sky.

Sunset near Paris

And then I crossed the periferique. I was in Paris!

Hello Paris!

I had made it! 205km today, and 541km in total. I was happy.

The next day was the victory tour.

Arc du Triompf

Eifel Tower

Day 2 of Eindhoven – Paris by bike: Brussels – Guise (191km)

Posted: May 4, 2013 in Belgium, Cycling, France
Tags: Belgium, Cycling, France

On day 2, the quest to clock up those kilometres was on. Paris was a long way away and I had two more days. I knew the terrain between Brussels and Paris was hilly, and so the quickest way to get there was not necessarily the shortest way as the crow flies (I am not a crow), but to follow waterways or old abandoned train tracks that have now become bike paths. I followed these where I could, and in between these, I just followed my nose (well, GPS on the smart phone).

Brussels – Guise. 191km

Following a suggested Brussels-Mons bike route, I started day 2 being blown down the canal that joins Brussels with Charleroi and Mons in the south. I learnt more about how canals work and how they connect cities of quite different altitude. First you have sluices. You have huge ramps transporting goods uphill when no more sluices will do the job. You have aqueducts. And an amazing massive sluice like a cliff face in the landscape.

So I was officially in the hills. In fact, I had been in them for a while, and the canal had allowed me experience beautiful hilly landscape without the effort. Leaving the canal between Mons and Charleroi saw me start what I would do a lot more of. Up and down and up again. Through villages, across pastures, and through forests. I was following my nose connecting the canal with the start of my downloaded Eurovelo route, before I hit a Belgium bike route – RAVeL – that ended up connecting with Eurovelo at the French border.

I crossed over into France and was welcomed with a beautiful sight. A wonderful bike path following a river, and the hope that such bike infrastructure would be with me all the way to Paris – a mere 250km away.

Promise of bike paradise

With the wind at my back, the kilometres rolling past along a serene river, I was thinking – is that all – I though Paris was further. I am going to get there in the early afternoon tomorrow. I will have time to do lots of sightseeing. Just to be on the safe side, I decided to cycle at least 180km today to only have 150km tomorrow (assuming Paris was indeed 250km from that sign). Well, I cycled 191km on day 2, and Paris was a lot further away that the planned 150km on day 3. The sign was more an indication that biking infrastructure is planned. In places it existed. Most of the time it didn’t. Maybe Paris was 250km from that sign. It certainly wasn’t the way I went.

Well, for those that are interested, there is a beautiful bike path from the Belgian border to Mauberge, there is a signposted route along normal roads (sometimes main roads) to another cycle path from Ferriere la Grande to Glageon. These were part of the voies vertes bike network in France. The route I followed to my endpoint in Guise was quite pleasant along little country roads. Guise itself is a cute little country town on the Oise river where I set up tent and devoured a big pizza.

Near Guise

Day 1 of Eindhoven – Paris by bike: Eindhoven – Brussels (145km)

Posted: April 30, 2013 in Belgium, Cycling, Netherlands
Tags: Belgium, Cycling, Netherlands

What was originally going to be a continuation from last week’s cycle from Givet to Paris was thrown on its head when a friend from Brussels invited me over. I calculated, Paris should still be reachable with the first night in Brussels. The second and third days would be long, but the wind was blowing in the right direction, and I was motivated.

I needed a route to get me to Paris. I pasted one together using the bike node system in Flanders in Belgium, a route I found from Brussels to Mons along a canal, and bits of eurovelo 3 that supposedly went to Paris and further. I threw the gear into the paniers and I was all set. This what I ended up cycling.

Eindhoven – Paris by bike

Day 1

Link to interactive map and gpx.

It’s always lovely cycling in the early morning along the canals in Belgium. A layer of mist hangs low over the water, steaming up into the skies. Birds chirp and the occasional one plops into the water out of my sight as I pass. The air was fresh – well, cold. I cycled fast to get the blood flowing, warm gloves on to slow down the freezing of my hands.

Mother nature wanted me to get to Brussels quickly. I was blown down those canals and across those fields. It was wonderful. And the roads were quiet taking me through nature.

I am rarely in this situation. I am going to get to my destination way ahead of time. The winds were too strong. 😉 Time to do the tourist rounds of Brussels before meeting with Kevin.

Somewhat of a rarity on my bike trips, I finished around 5, but was in Brussels at 4. I could have a relaxing evening. We went for a nice dinner at a thai restaurant and had a chat. All ready and rested for the early start. Day 2 and 3 would have to be big to reach Paris!

Weekend cycle. Eindhoven – Givet – Namur. 300km

Posted: April 23, 2013 in Belgium, Cycling, France, Netherlands
Tags: Belgium, Cycling, Eindhoven, France, Netherlands

Weekend cycles are good to get ready (mentally and physically) for my 2 month cycle to the North Cape in 6 weeks. This weekend I left my home in Eindhoven, touched French soil (in Givet), and returned to Namur in Belgium to catch the train home.

Eindhoven – Givet – Namur. Info and gpx download on EveryTrail

Flat and curvy is better than up and down, and up and down. This trip I followed the Maas River (which is flat and curvy), starting with passing through my favourite forest, then cycling along my favourite canal – a canal following the Maas on the Belgian side of the border.

Leendebos

The view over the canal following the Dutch – Belgian border

Lovely island in the canal.

I had chosen to cycle south as the wind was blowing that way. When I have no concrete destination in mind – cycle where the wind blows. I will have enough headwinds cycling to the North Cape.

After Maastricht (well, skirting around it), I entered new territory. Castles, fields and a beautiful river – the Maas (Meuse).

Border post

Castle at the Dutch-Belgian border

Meuse at Liege

When the road was nice, it was very nice – bike paths and no cars. In Belgium (Wallonie), the cycle network is not connected. So.. When it was not nice, it was not nice. Busy roads, loud. Not fun.

I had booked a room in a castle in Huy – between Liege and Maastricht on the Maas. It was a lovely castle with friendly, helpful staff. They gave me a great tip for a cycle route the next day. And, it had an interesting view – looking out over the nuclear reactor on the other side of the street.

Domaine Du Chateau de la Neuville

Bedroom with my bike

Lovely view

In Wallonie (the french speaking part of Belgium), they have the RAVeL network (Reseau Autonome des Voies Lents) – ravel.wallonie.be. These are separate bike roads, no cars in sight (usually), passing leisurely through the countryside. I first discovered these when I crossed the border into Belgium (there was a big sign explaining the system). In Huy, I was suggested to go on the Ligne 126 to Ciney. This followed an old train track, passing up a beautiful valley, through forests, and through a high area above the valley. And, as it followed an old train line, it was not steep. And it was empty. Beautiful.

Abandoned train station on Ligne 126

Fields

Reaching the end of the path, I had to make my way uphill and down dale to the Meuse. The landscape away from the Meuse is undulating, and then a sudden steep drop to the river. Fun to cycle down, but once you’re down, its hard to leave the valley. The steep sides of the Meuse River made for some lovely cycling. I passed vertical rockfaces covered with rock climbers. Looked like fun.

Vertical cliffs on the Meuse

View from above.

Dinant

The goal of the trip was to step over into France. I did.

France

And then cycled back to Namur to catch the train.

I learned some stuff about my equipment, remembered stuff I learned cycling in Norway last year, and remembered how important it is to cycle along a scenic road, with little traffic, and a good surface. On this trip I discovered that:

My phone backup batteries can discharge if something is pressing on them in the bag – at least that is my theory why they were both discharged on the last day.
Just like following the curves of a fjord in Norway, following the curves of the Maas River is better than taking a ‘short cut’. I learned in Norway to get mentally prepared for all places where the road deviated from the coast. Last weekend I learned that the Maas River has steep banks.
Unfortunately, longish stretches of cobblestones in the RAVeL network made the busy road that I was avoiding seem appealing. But then, lots of roadworks on the RAVeL routes forced me to take the main roads, after which I dreamed of hitting the cobblestones again.

First 2013 weekend cycle – Eindhoven – Den Helder. 320 km

Posted: April 16, 2013 in Cycling, Netherlands
Tags: Cycling, Delft, Den Helder, Eindhoven, Netherlands

The spring is here and my new bike needs to be put to the test before setting out for the North Cape in June. What better way than to return to familiar territory, visit some friends, and pass through what should be tulip territory. Last weekend I cycled 320 km from Eindhoven to Den Helder via Den Haag (The Hague).

In the early and fresh (i.e. cold) Saturday morning hours, I passed through fields, along canals and through forests, almost entirely on cycle paths far away from cars and other disturbances. The birds were chirping – something I have missed in the long colder winter that is now ending. Leaving with the conviction of warm weather (which was predicted for Sunday), it took time before I decided that, yes, may hands really were freezing off, and I really should wear my toasty warm gloves that I had bought for the North Cape. The fields were ploughed, the trees still bare, and waiting in great expectation for the burst of green.

Ploughed field

Bare trees waiting

As the day continued, the sun started to break through the clouds, but the (head) wind did not drop. I passed wide polders, along dikes, and lots of typical dutch houses and windmills.

Dutch polder and house

I avoided Rotterdam by passing to the south of it, along a thin peninsula of land, with a view to the industrial area to the north. The wind was causing me to burn extra calories, but the sun was well and truly out.

And then I passed through Delft, the town where I lived when I first came to Holland exactly 20 years ago!

Oude Kerk, Delft

Nieuwe Kerk, Delft

After a lovely evening catching up with my friends in Den Haag, I continued my trip turning northwards, this time with a strong tail wind. Up through the dunes following the coast. There is nothing better than hurtling through the dunes at 40 km/h with the wind at your back.

Unfortunately, the tulips were not out – only the first of the daffodils. It has been too cold for the flowers to dare rise from the soil.

Cafe in the dunes

The first of the daffodils

Watch out for wild roosters

Company in the dunes

Cycling through the dunes

Daffodils from the dike

Arrival in Den Helder

By the end of the trip it was quite warm – about 20C. A real summer feeling as I rode back in the train. Lovely to see all the bikes packed into the train. Back at home where cycling is loved, and there is amazing infrastructure for it!

Unplanned ‘triathlon’ in the Adinrondack Mountains

Posted: April 1, 2013 in Cycling, Hiking, Running
Tags: Adinrondack, Cycling, Hiking, Peasleeville, Running, USA

I have been on a project for work in Boston for the last two months. It has been cold, and it has been snowy. Coming from warmer climes, I didn’t know about driving in snow storms, not using high-beams in blizzards and how important it is to clear the snow on the car roof and bonnet. I am now versed in the ways of the New England winter. Now it is time for the spring – and then the summer – and my big cycle trip.. Yay!

I saw the first sign of spring during my Easter in the Adinrondack Mountains in up-state New York. I was there with some friends (Candice and Sarah), staying in a beautiful log cabin in Peasleeville. On Easter Saturday the sun came out and the mercury rose. The white winter landscape twinkled in the sun as it slowly prepared to melt – over the coming two months. But, for me, the white would remain and I breathed in the beauty.

I saw the blue of my cabin window and jumped out of bed. Such a morning could not be wasted. A jogging loop through the hills was in order. On the map it didn’t look too far. In practice it was further than it looked. (I didn’t check the scale.) Through charming farming land, and through wooded hills.

Peasleeville barn

Strackville Road

25 km and a big breakfast later, Candice, Sarah and I took out the bikes. This was my first bike trip in the USA. It was a short one (21 km), to a little iced over lake. We had visions of a longer trip, but, as we had more planned for the day, we cut it short to make alternative use of the brilliant sun.

Lake in Macomb Park

And then, keen to see the amazing views on a clear day that I seen from mountain tops on cloudy days, we decided to scale the local mountain out the back of the cabin.

The sun was really shining brightly now, and it was actually quite warm.

On the way up Mt Terry.

It was a steep, snowy climb up a four-wheel track to a communications tower at the top of the mountain. In fact, the tower was not at the highest point. This, however, was not reachable in the winter. I tried my best, bush-bashing cross-country. The snow was deep and, being warm, unstable. I ended my hike in a frozen but thawing bog near the summit. It was beautiful, tranquil, and utterly silent.

Bog at Mt. Terry.

So, without planning it before-hand, I had done 3 different activities outdoors. 25km running, 21km cycling and 9km mountain hiking. And then a big dinner in the wood cabin with the fire burning.

Matthew toys with the idea of ditching the iPhone and Apple maps.

Posted: March 24, 2013 in Running
Tags: Running

With Apple maps being horrible for tracking my cycling trips (half the roads are missing), I am on the verge of switching to a Samsung galaxy smart phone. My friend Autri has one, so I did a test run tracking a trail and writing a blog entry on wordpress.

I must say it is quite easy doing everything on the galaxy. I am getting close to being convinced. I’ll do some research on recharging batteries and mounting it on my bike. The battery usage seems to be ok. We’ll see.

So, here is my test photo to see how uploading photos goes.

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Day 3 of England cycle: Canterbury to Calais (60km)

Day 2 of England cycle: Chelmsford – Canterbury (125km)

Day 1 of England cycle: Harwich – Chelmsford – London (150km )

Day 3 of Eindhoven – Paris by bike: Guise – Paris (205 km)

Day 2 of Eindhoven – Paris by bike: Brussels – Guise (191km)

Day 1 of Eindhoven – Paris by bike: Eindhoven – Brussels (145km)

Day 1

Weekend cycle. Eindhoven – Givet – Namur. 300km

First 2013 weekend cycle – Eindhoven – Den Helder. 320 km

Unplanned ‘triathlon’ in the Adinrondack Mountains

Matthew toys with the idea of ditching the iPhone and Apple maps.

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