‘Don’t shit on the fish!’
The young man raced out of the house in the fading light of the evening. Clement was going, as instructed, to the place where we had a shower scooping water out of the stream that ran next to the road. Directly downstream was a little fish-pond containing some large specimens of orange fish swimming peacefully. The young man thought Clement only wanted a piss.
‘Don’t shit on the fish!’
Little did we know that the stream on the left of the road was for shitting, and the stream on the right is for showering (or urinating). We will know for next time.

The shower

The shower

That happened in the evening. This morning our new friends made a fantastic breakfast for us. We squatted down, fascinated in the kitchen, watching chillies being ground, dough being kneeded, and tempeh being fried. It was all using local ingredients. Just outside the kitchen, our friend pointed to a durian tree, a coconut tree, cocoa, mangos,.. The list was endless. And the rice was from the local paddies. Fantastic!

The grinding of chillies

The grinding of chillies

Then we were invited to the local school, adorned with many wise sayings which don’t translate well into English.

Lost in translation

Lost in translation

The teacher and kids welcomed us into their class and asked us questions on our trip.
Their eyes were shining, hearing about a world out there – a world that they will inherit. Before leaving, we were farewelled in chorus from the school gate.

The school kids

The school kids

School kids

School kids

Today was a day of climbing and cruising back downhill. These valleys are amazing – little areas with rice paddies, surrounded by little hills, dotted with palm trees.

Rice paddies

Rice paddies

Looking down

Looking down

The day finished with the road deciding to climb almost vertically upward. It’s really cool – pushing my body, the sweat pouring off, crawling up a road that gets steeper after every turn – with an amazing backdrop. The endorphins flow and I am happy.

We asked if we could camp in the school grounds in a small village. That was OK, but maybe first we would like to have a drink at the neighbour’s, and have a shower in the roadside stream with a view out over the fish. We were then invited for dinner, and then to sleep. Again, such lovely, hospitable people. All gathered round to look at our maps and hear some stories. Dinner was an amazing spread of delicious Indonesian food. What a lovely country!

The family

The family


‘Can you turn off the light?’ I asked, lying on the living room floor at night, next to Clement, ready to go to sleep. There was a pause of incomprehension. Clement pointed to the light, and made a cross symbol. Incomprehension. I tried the same kind of waving my arms around. The grandpa turned on the other light. Two lights were on.
‘No. No.’ We pointed to the light. ‘Can you turn off the light?’
Hesitantly he turned off both lights. They couldn’t possibly mean that. Who would want to sleep in the dark?

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The family

I love West Sumatra. What a day it was, ending with some lovely new friends in a little village nestled amongst steep hills with a view over the rice fields. Today we had durian, played with the baby pet monkeys, cycled on beautiful roads through rice paddies and snoozed on a restaurant balcony. We also crossed the equator. Hello southern hemisphere!

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Rice fields

The road was varied today. Steep undulating hills, a flat river and then a 17km climb into the heights. High above, the wind is cool, the view over the mountainous forest landscape is amazing, and we are given mangoes fresh from the tree directly over our head. Using a stick like a snooker cue, the mangoes are knocked down to be consumed.

We stopped for our first durian of the trip. I remember durian fruit as being the most horrible food I have ever tried. The last time, I was not even able to swallow it. This time both Clement and I managed to eat it, and we even finished off a full durian together.

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Durian

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Durian

The people here keep monkeys – and the monkey babies are soooo sweet!

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Monkey

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Monkey

In the heat of the day, we passed the equator. I feel at home now. People stand on their heads, and the water goes down the sink in the right direction. ☺ (For the nerdy people there (like myself), the water rotates in a random direction in both the northern and southern hemispheres. The effect due to the Coriolus force from the rotation of the earth is minimal, and is outweighed by other random forces.)

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Equator


Cycling in the zone. Paranoia. Heat and hills. Cramp. Amazing spread of food for dinner. Today was a weird day.

River

River

Clement and I both are bursting with energy. The road is flat and straight, and we power on, going faster and faster. It’s great feeling the energy flowing through my body. I feel strong. I feel I can conquer the world, and I guess I am conquering it, in a strange kind of way. I pass Clement as my music reaches a climax, and am overtaken as Clement does the same. People wave, pass us giving the thumbs-up. We are fast, and we have come a long way to cycle in this blur of a tropical background.

After 80km we stop for lunch, and we talk. And talk. And talk. Two hours pass – two hours of the hottest part of the day. And then we continue, this time at a slower pace – the sun is pounding down and it is hot. The landscape becomes hilly. The sweat pours off me – Clement calls me a ‘spring’ – a spring of sweat.

Then the mood changes. Suddenly people seem threatening. I don’t know why. A guy invites us to his lake to swim, and we both don’t trust him. Strange people drive past making us feel uneasy. Are the tired looking women, plastered with make-up and dressed to kill, standing by their cars, standing there for a reason?

The cramp hits – well, the preliminary twinges of cramp. The hills are steep, and it’s a constant up and down in the heat. No amount of water can fix my twinges, and I know that it is only a matter of time before I buckle over in agony from cramp. We stop – a truck stop – everyone looks weird and suspicious. Or is it us?

A fantastic dinner – a spread of tiny dishes of incredible Indonesian food – and we feel more relaxed. What was the problem? Cycling makes you learn your body, and your brain. Some unusual brain chemistry was at work today. I have experienced it before, and will undoubtedly experience it again. It’s all part of the adventure.


Today was the day of palm plantations. Endless plantations with few people. Today was the day of gas pipelines. Today it rained cats and dogs. Today we saw the rolling hills of total devastation. Land that was once (I’m not sure when) forest, and is now barren as far as the eye can see. Today is day number two of camping in a school.

Pipeline

Pipeline

With no more boats to catch, Clement and I can set the schedule. We realised today that our bodies have different needs. Mine needs many more calories, and it needs a breakfast. Two bananas is enough for Clement. Not for me. An early start was fine, but, due to the lack of people, and just an endless road through the plantations, we found ourselves 50km further on before we could have a late breakfast. I was a bit crotchety, even after devouring my reserve biscuits, ripping open the wrapper when it didn’t comply with my wishes. We will take this calorie need into account in the future. ☺

The morning light and scenery was very serene.

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The morning light

The rolling fields of emptiness were everywhere.

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The empty plains

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Not a tropical rainforest


‘Wortels. Bloemkool. Boontjes.’
I stood there thinking to myself – learning Indonesian is going to be easy. Any non-local vegetable has the Dutch name.
‘Boontjes,’ I laughed. The old lady laughed heartily, showing her half a dozen teeth. Then the whole crowd laughed – mothers, fathers, children, babies – everyone that had congregated around us, mobile phones in hand ready to catch the moment. I feel at home here.

Modern technology

Modern technology

Photo with the family

Photo with the family

The family

The family

We entered the boarding hall for the ferry, deafened by the amazing racket of people hysterically calling out the boat destinations as if their lives depended on it. We were ushered to the booth to pay the 30 cent departure tax, and then made our way to the boat, where I watched uneasily as my fully laden bike was hoisted onto the roof of the boat.

Inside the boat we froze. The airconditioning was tossing the Chinese new-year lanterns around in the breeze – and the breeze was straight from the north pole. Clement and I sat huddled in the warmest clothes we happened to have with us, watching the young Chinese singing stars performing love ballads on the television in front of us.

Cold in the ferry

Cold in the ferry

Sumatra is beautiful. The road is a quiet, passing through the low-lying marsh lands, lined with little houses nestled amongst the palm trees. And the people are so lovely. ‘Hello mister!’ cries come from all directions, and we are stopped every kilometre for photos.

Beautiful landscape

Beautiful landscape

We are camping in the grounds of the local school. My hammock is set-up, and I’m all ready for an early night.


Flanked by taxis we cycled away from the Indonesian port into the night.
‘Taxi, taxi, taxi!!’ cried with such determination, ignoring the fact that we had another mode of transport.
‘Where you go?’ asked the police with sirens whirring and blue lights pulsing.
‘Hello mister!’ cried everyone – motorcyclists, shop owners, people sitting on the side of the road. ‘Hello mister!’ screamed out from all directions with such passion. Welcome to Indonesia!

Slick mall in Singapore

Slick mall in Singapore

Compare that with our entrance to the ferry, walking our bikes through the slick mall. We were treated like royalty at the ferry terminal. Guided through the process by our own special officer, our bikes and luggage were screened and tenderly transported to the quay. Our letter of permission to transport the bikes on the ferry in hand, we proceded through customs where I had a coffee chat to the woman that stamped my passport. All very pleasant.

My time in Singapore had come to a end. Thanks my friends Penelope, Steve, Kiera and Seth for the great time, and thanks SK for all the amazing help and advice!

SK and friends

SK and friends


Almost a week in Singapore visiting a friend and waiting for my Indonesian visa gives me time to make my next video. The trip from Bangkok to Singapore was beautiful – cycling in tropical paradise. I hope you like the video! 🙂


Today we crossed the border into Singapore and were transported into another world. After sleeping under an open gazebo amongst the coconut trees in Malaysia, the slick malls, the orderly streets and the astronomical prices of Singapore make me feel I have entered another planet – another planet removed from the mother nature that supports us.

100 euro flowers

100 euro flowers

Travelling with Clement, my daily expenditure has descreased by a factor of 3. At the same time, I feel like my experiences have increased by a factor of 3. Less chocolate milk and ice-creams from 7-eleven and more local food from the tiny street stalls. No more hotels and more camping wherever the universe provides. Our camping spots are infinitely nicer that a sterile hotel room, and looking for a camp leads to more contact with the locals, and a closer feeling to mother nature that supports us, and every living creature and plant on the planet.

Eating the coconut

Eating the coconut

We pick coconuts (also from ant-infested trees – that was quite an exciting experience), we find drinking water that is not in plastic bottles – reversing the bad habit I have got into since entering Laos. We eat more fruit – also over-ripe fruit that people wanted to throw away. My last days in Malaysia I was spending about USD7 per day – and Clement even much less.

In Singapore we spent 2 day’s budget on passport photos. Clement lived off the cost of the Indonesian visa fees for one whole month in Burma. In the slick, shiny shopping mall in Singapore, we saw the most expensive flowers I have seen in my whole life. I think the very modest 100 (actually 87) euro bunch of flowers is about a factor 15 more than in Germany, and would have cost even less in the Netherlands. This place breathes money and wealth which feels so foreign now. Expensive cars, designer clothes, an air-conditioned universe. This world is no longer mine. Return me to the high mountain pass in China with just me, the mountains, the rocks and the wind. I feel closer to nature there – the nature that supports us all.

Singapore also means meeting up with Penelope – a very good friend from my university days in Australia. In horror, we realised it was exactly 27 years ago that we first met. Most of the people I have been cycling with in the last year were not born then. Singapore means amazing talks, reminiscing about the past, passionately discussing the present, and thinking about the future – including my future life and job in Australia.

In Singapore, I also talked to kids at Penelope’s children’s school. I love talking to kids, hearing their ideas, and feeling their passion. And its fascinating talking with kids living in such different places about their thoughts on sustainability. Comparing to the kids I spoke to in India, I am reminded that Singapore is, indeed, a very different place.

Oh. By the way, I passed 27000km in Singapore.

We will be in Singapore for quite a while during the Chinese New Year celebrations, waiting for our Indonesian visa. I am looking forward to relaxing and talking.


With the Chinese New Year holiday coming up, we realised we needed to be in Singapore as early as possible to arrange things while everything is open. This meant head down, along the straight main road. A perfect time to start my Indonesian language course. Nama saya Matthew. Saya oran Australia – or German – or Dutch. I’m not sure. ☺

Our lovely host Acid and his friends

Our lovely host Acid and his friends

We had a lovely farewell breakfast with Acid and two other cycling friends before heading on towards Singapore. Our final resting place is in amongst the banana and coconut palms in a little gazebo in front of a house. It comes complete with electricity and shower.. ☺

Shower

Shower

Near our house

Near our house


Since Savannakhet in Laos, except for short breaks of a few days with others, I have been cycling alone. Early to rise, stop when I like, eat when I like. Sleep. The last few days cycling with Clement we have slept in and talked, eaten and talked, experienced and talked. That different cycling experience once more – and I like it.

Clement cycling through the palm trees

Clement cycling through the palm trees

We sit up to our chest in the tranquil bath-warm water, the rocks poking out of the sea to the side, the sandy beach lined with palm trees in front of us, and behind us, one of the most important stretches of water in the world – the straights of Malacca. All night from our sleeping vantage-point on the little verandah looking out over the sea, we saw the horizon lit with huge vessels plying this critical shipping corridor. Now, in the morning, we sat and agreed how lucky we both were to be able to be here in this beautiful place, and be on this amazing bike trip – Clement Europe to here via India, and me via China.

Today we met Acid – an active member of cycling Facebook groups that I have been in contact with for a long time. He showed us little side paths away from the highway right up to his house. It was beautiful cycling down Dutch-style cycling paths, but this time not through Dutch forests and polders with cows, but amongst coconut palms. This is the type of road I came here to cycle. Coconut palms remain exotic and exciting for me, and being immersed amongst them I feel I have come such a long way.

Acid, Clement and me.

Acid, Clement and me.

Through the palm trees

Through the palm trees

Melaka

Melaka

The broad planning for the way forward to Australia is now being planned. Each with a few different activities planned en route, we are both going the same direction down to East Timor and then Australia. How to arrange that, how long will each option take, and how to sort out the limited two-month Indonesian visas? I will be cycling to Australia for a lot of the way with Clement and Will. Now is the time to work out how to puzzle the grand plan together. A day off in Muar to do this, with the knowledge and experience of Acid.