Posts Tagged ‘Tutuala’


And there we were, on the road in the middle of the jungle in Timor Leste, practicing Tae Kwon Do with 30 students. They held out the pad and I executed a turning roundhouse kick. We did some forms (patterns of movements) together on the road. They did the same style that I had studied 25 years ago – and this in the middle of absolutely nowhere. Timor Leste keeps surprising.

Tae Kwon Do class

Tae Kwon Do class

‘That road doesn’t go to Lospalos,’ said one guy. Another said it does, but not for cars – only for motorbikes and bicycles. We gave it a try – a beautiful road through grassy plains bordering a lake, dotted with houses here and there. Oh – and there was a challenging bridge.

The tricky bridge

The tricky bridge

The tricky bridge

The tricky bridge

The tricky bridge

The tricky bridge

Grassy plain

Grassy plain

Satellite dish

Satellite dish

Again today was not rich in kilometres travelled – the road was muddy and bumpy – and peaceful, tranquil and beautiful. After the high altitude plain we passed into the forest exactly on the border between two weather regions. On the right was sunshine. On the left were the darkest of clouds and rain. Tomorrow the road leads south. More rain is in store.


How long should I wait? It had been four hours. There was no sign of Clement as I scanned the waves on the stretch of water between Timor and Jaco island. After the bumpy descent to the beautiful pristine white beach with turquoise water, Clement had set out to swim to Jaco island. I had visions of him drowning in the high waves on the way back, and finally paid the $10 to catch a boat there myself.

View out over to Jaco

View out over to Jaco

Clement arrived at the beach just as I was pulling away in the boat. I only spent minutes on Jaco island before returning, after confirmation that Clement was indeed back on the Timor beach.

I did, however, lie on the white sand, swim in the turquoise waters and generally relax. It was amazing to be in this beautiful place, and nothing to do but just enjoy it. I was looking out over a pristine island with sandy white beaches, and behind was Darwin – as close as I can get to it by bike. I’m quite proud of that achievement.

View out over to Jaco

View out over to Jaco

The ride down had one of the worst road surfaces of my trip. It was like bumping down a rocky creek bed – but very steep. Still, it makes getting there all the more satisfying.

The road down

The road down

Clement returned over the moon. He swam with a turtle, and explored the island with a real Robinson Crusoe feeling – alone on such a beautiful tropical island.


The island has come to an end and the road has come to an end. It feels like the end of the earth. We’re at the end of a bumpy dirt road, on the edge of a high grassy plain surrounded by rocky mountains reaching up to the heavens. Heavy black clouds hang low over the peaks ahead, and the sun behind casts long evening shadows in front of us. There is tranquillity in the air. Here time stands still, and we have come to rest.

Towards the dark clouds

Towards the dark clouds

This island is incredible. Every day – every few hours – the landscape changes. We started the day cycling on a peaceful road bumping along the coast, grassy plains to the left and right. Cows and goat graze, watching as we pass, and water buffalo wallow in the muddy pools.

Coastal road

Coastal road

Then it was time for lunch – 30 fried bananas and a watermelon. A bus stopped – a typical one for East Timor. The busses are always colourfully decorated – usually with paintings of young, attractive women or of Jesus Christ. This one was with young, attractive women.

Colourful bus

Colourful bus

Colourful bus

Colourful bus

Then the road climbed through forest to a high plain with endless grassland and cows, ending in a lake in the distance. The road was very bumpy, and the standard Timor headwind kept our speed down, but our spirits were high as we breathed in the beauty of this remote part of the earth.

The road to the end of the island

The road to the end of the island

The lake

The lake

Tomorrow we will descend to the beach at the end of Timor island, and visit Jaco island – and wave in the direction of Darwin… Australia!