The ramshackle collection of tin shacks lies in the sand dunes, windswept, at the end of the world. I love this place.
On the way to Tin City
The drizzle cleared and the sun poked through. The Tin City shacks were waiting.
Tin City shackTin City from above
I took side roads when I could, but the main road was a stark contrast to the desolation of Tin City.
Port Stephens is busy, and Hawks Nest is a quiet, laid back version of it. An amazing thin line of sanddunes stretches out to a headland. That’s where I cycled.
Start: Newcastle Station
End: Newcastle Station
Total distance: 88km Strava link
Tin City is a collection of tin shacks on an endless beach surrounded by sand dunes. 4x4s drive along the beach, and so I thought I could do that too – with my bike.
At my first attempt, I failed to make it to the beach at all, being hemmed in in the soft sand by nesting birds on the shore side, and active mines on the far side.
At my second attempt, I made it to the water by pushing my bike through soft sand. The sand was also soft along the shoreline, forcing me to return to the road.
My third attempt saw me leave my bike at the base of the sandhills and walk to Tin City.
It was morning, the sun was shining, I had a big tailwind, it was flat, and for the first time cycling for a long time, I put on my Infected Mushroom music. The kilometres hurtled by. The energy music from my adventures in Borneo and Sulawesi was fitting for today. I felt the strength in my body, the blood pumping through my veins and I saw the road whiz past. I laughed with joy. I was on the way to Tin City!
Tin City, Stockton
Tin City is a collection of little tin shacks plopped in the middle of an endless beach with massive, rolling sand dunes. It feels like the end of the earth, with the wind howling, and the sand blasting against your skin. Popping out from Boyces Trail which led me through the scrub to the start of the mountains of sand, the strength and raw beauty of the nature was imposing before me.
Boyces Trail
The dunes start
Scurrying up these sand monsters and down the other side, I feel like in my own personal playground. I stand on the crest looking out over the expanse of sand, all to the backdrop of the howling wind.
The sand dunes
I spoke to Al, often the only person here. Today he had a few guests. He looked rough like the wind and sand, and had an inner peace. He felt comfortable and at ease. I could tell that he belonged here.
Tin City, Stockton
Tin City, Stockton
After a fight into the same wind that had blown me here, I was in the train from Newcastle, and back in the hustle and bustle of Sydney. What a contrast!
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