Posts Tagged ‘Thailand’


I planned the cycle trip route before I left Eindhoven– in more detail at the beginning, and less at the end. Regularly en route the plan has changed – sometimes just by a little bit affecting a day or two, and sometimes by a lot, affecting months of cycling. I had been planning to cross to the western coast of Thailand soon. Today I met two groups of cyclists, and that all changed.

A french cyclist with some great tips.

A french cyclist with some great tips.

The west coast has only the main (busy) road, whereas the east coast is beautiful. I now have a new itinerary and several islands I need to visit. Being flexible is the name of the game. Koh Yao Noi, Koh Lanta and Koh Rok – here I come. (Although Koh Rok was on the agenda already.)

The road again followed the coast for a while. The scout/girl guide camp left a bit of rubbish on the beach.

The girl guides and scouts were naughty

The girl guides and scouts were naughty

There were some views,

View from the temple

View from the temple

and some back roads (meaning I could avoid the freeway-like main road entirely).

And just before my destination I was changing batteries on my phone when a woman pulled up on her bike, took out her phone, and took multiple selfies with me. She then followed me wherever I went, videoing me cycling behind her with her phone. It felt like in China.

I'm famous

I’m famous

I lost her in the town. She meant well, but I just wanted to be alone. ☺

Back road

Back road


Cycling alone again today, the beaches just kept on getting more beautiful, and more peaceful. Ban Krut never ended with its white sands lined with palm trees. I ended at another cute little beach with the standard kaarst structures on the horizon and the calm, tranquil sea.

Ban Krut - time for a swim

Ban Krut – time for a swim

Arne decided to catch a lift to a bigger town to get his bike seen to, so, it was me keeping myself company again. I like being by myself, and cycling through this amazing landscape. It is perfect being able to stop and do whatever I like, when I like. I stayed off the main road except for a short 28km stretch in the morning, and then drank up the serenity of the back roads following the shoreline.

Sunrise at Prachuap Khiri Khan

Sunrise at Prachuap Khiri Khan

The beach road

The beach road

Ban Krut

Ban Krut

Hat Bang Bird

Hat Bang Bird

Ban Krut

Ban Krut


This coast is stunning. Calm roads, calm waters. Kaarst formations jutting out of the plains and out of the sea. Palm trees lining the roads next to the sandy beaches. And a cave that is a massive sinkhole in the kaarst landscape – the sun shining in like a beam from the heavens lighting up the golden temple. Amazing.

Temple at the Phraya Nathan cave

Temple at the Phraya Nathan cave

We were woken up by the rooster orchestra, and by the fishermen preparing their boats for the day. It was a beautiful light, and a quiet road before everyone woke from their slumber.

Fisher boats in front of the tent

Fisher boats in front of the tent

The coast in the morning light

The coast in the morning light

The coast in the morning light

The coast in the morning light

The walk to the Phraya Nathan cave was steep, first to get to a beautiful palm-lined broad, wide, sandy beach, then then to get to the deep sinkhole in the kaarst mountain. It was just beautiful.

The beautiful coast

The beautiful coast

Phraya Nathan cave

Phraya Nathan cave

Phraya Nathan cave

Phraya Nathan cave

Arne was having some problems with his tyres, and then his brakes, so we are having a rest day tomorrow. I’m looking forward to lazing around in this beautiful place. No blog tomorrow.. ☺


The sea. Palm trees. White sand. Camping on the beach. The sky silhouettes the mountains as it turns orange, pink and then fades to black. It’s a summer holiday in the tropics – and I have cycled here from Holland. Happy.

Khao Kalok

Khao Kalok

We cycled more on smaller roads today that followed the coast, and passed through the first beach resort towns. We cycled past an official viewpoint every kilometre. None of the viewpoints had a view.

A viewpoint without a view

A viewpoint without a view

Arne has cycled from Belgium to here via India, and camped almost every night. He brought me over my renewed fear of camping (when there are perfectly good beds), and we have our tents on the beach (in perfect view of the road). It is kind of cool, camping just metres from the water on a sandy beach.

Early morning light

Early morning light

The water plains

The water plains

Khao Kalok

Khao Kalok


Leaving megacities takes time – time on big arterial roads with lots of traffic. Its not pleasant cycling, but it was safe enough with the wide side lane. Cycling along minding my own business, I was overtaken by another cyclist – Arne from Belgium. He’s heading to Singapore – like me, so we cycled together along the busy, flat, straight road.

The beautiful road

The beautiful road

We are now close to the sea – the sea I have not seen since Turkey (except briefly at Bangpoo). Bring on the beach!

Arne and me

Arne and me


Mountains, oceans, deserts and impenetrable jungles have shaped the flow of mankind throughout history. I get a shiver down my spine when I cross these natural barriers and pass from one world to the next, and experience people and cultures so different from my own. I am cycling across the massive Eurasian continent – a land-mass where the majority of humanity lives. Over Christmas and New Year I was in Bangkok and North-east India – two vastly different places. Another taste of the diversity of the planet. Man, this trip is cool!

Looking out over the plains of Bangladesh

Looking out over the plains of Bangladesh

The Revenge of Geography by Robert Kaplan explains the history of mankind through the lens of geography. The vast deserts of western China. The Himalayas, Karakorum and Hindu Kush mountains. They separate cultures so different – India, China, Europe. The heartland of Eurasia – Iran, the stans and western China – have been the crossroads where civilizations meet and create a common intricate history.

Cycling along, I see and hear words from languages and lands far away. I was amazed hearing Turkish words deep into the stans. And one day I stopped in amazement when the penny dropped, and realised the word I had been seeing in Cyrillic script in Kyrgyzstan all this time in shop windows was the Hindi word Dukan. This place is the melting-pot of civilization, and you can feel it everywhere.

India
In 2015 I cycled through China and experienced the land deeply. At Christmas time, I left my bike in Bangkok, and flew to India – another major culture on the Eurasian landmass. I was not very far from where I had been in China – just the other side of the tallest mountains in the world. The Himalayas shield these countries from each other and the cultures are so different.

For me Bollywood music and films transport me instantly back to India. Such a happy, iconic music with surreal love scenes and frivolity. Driving back from the airport with Bollywood filling my ears, we saw people picnicking and dancing on the banks of the Bramaputra River – the lifeblood of so many millions of people.

Dill wale

Dill wale

India is so very different to China, and so very different from south-east Asia, and so very different from the west. Motor and cycle-rickshaws abound, the traffic is chaotic spewing out poisonous fumes that create the thick cloud of pollution hanging over the city. The markets, the shops, the buildings are all so.. Indian. The haggling, buying and even temple donations is particularly fierce – especially as a foreigner with a (perceived) endless wallet. Although very different, India also feels familiar – Australia shares its Commonwealth roots, and with my Indian friends of similar age, we could reminisce about the cricket stars of years long gone.

I gave a presentation to some local kids about the bike trip and sustainability for Green Pedals. Global warming could affect these children so much in their lifetimes (and also in my lifetime) as the glaciers feeding the Bramaputra dry up. These kids got it, and these kids were motivated. I love talking to kids and seeing the light in their eyes. The excitement in a new life just starting.

The kids in Guwahati

The kids in Guwahati

The Assam Tribune

The Assam Tribune

Newspaper article

Newspaper article

Thank you my good friends Autri and Jodi, and Autri’s wonderful Indian family for your amazing hospitality. I saw some beautiful parts of north-east India in Assam and the scenic hills of Meghalaya – the last burst of mountains before the steep drop to the endless river delta plains of Bangladesh. And thank you to Autri’s mother Anuradha for your hospitality and passion to make India and the world a better place.

Little shops

Little shops

Zombies

Zombies

In the hammock

In the hammock

Autri's lovely mother

Autri’s lovely mother

Bangkok
I didn’t visit the temples. I didn’t go to Kao San Road. Bangkok was eating, relaxing and seeing friends – heaven after a lot of cycling. Oh – and lots of thai massages.

Bangkok feels like the antithesis of Iran and central Asia. It was great to be, for example, served by a transvestite in the major shopping complex food court. That would not be possible anywhere else in the world (outside of gay areas). In some way, people are free, and in others, the political turmoil is sad for the lovely people of this beautiful country.

Me, Jay and Mark

Me, Jay and Mark

Tomorrow I am continuing my trip in a new year – down one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. I am so excited to be cycling along beautiful palm lined beaches and turquoise blue water – landscapes so foreign to the ones at home (wherever that home may be).


I have finished cycling for 2015 and my trusty bike is getting a service – new rims, and various odds and ends are being fixed. In Bangkok, other than eating, I have been working on my latest video, which is now ready for viewing. 🙂 I hope you like it!


It’s weird when you connect the dots. Air travel creates a set of places you have been, disjoint from each-other. Bangkok – my favourite Asian city – was always a short stop after a long-haul flight. Bangkok is no longer separated. It is connected to Eindhoven through my 24326km journey here. The whole world is connected, and I am happy to live on it!

Dripping in sweat, I arrive in my lovely apartment in Bangkok

Dripping in sweat, I arrive in my lovely apartment in Bangkok

I saw the sea for the first time since Greece – at Bangpoo Recreation.

Bangpoo Recreation

Bangpoo Recreation

Bangpoo Recreation

Bangpoo Recreation

I sit here in my lovely air-conditioned room in the middle of this enormous mega-city feeling pretty proud of myself. I have finished cycling for 2015. I’ll spend the rest of the year here and with a friend in Assam, India.
What a year 2015 has been. In this year, I have studied Chinese in Taiwan, becoming moderately fluent while in China. I have cycled through rain, snow, muddy roadworks, blistering sun and hurricane winds. I have cycled through deserts, high altitude plateaus and tropical rainforests. I have had heatstroke, altitude sickness and lots of diahorrea. But, most importantly, I have met the most beautiful people. The people I share this world with – in far-away places people are just like at home. Caring, loving people – they laugh, they play, they work, they live.

With this I sign off for 2015. There will still be daily (3 month delayed) posts of my trip through China. Have a great new year, and I’ll see you in 2016!

My route up to Bangkok

My route up to Bangkok

The approach into Bangkok

The approach into Bangkok

P.S. For those looking for a good cycle route into Bangkok, I can recommend the one I took. Approaching from the south is a good idea. The roads were mostly (relatively) small, with not too much traffic. Of course, it is all relative – given that you are approaching Bangkok, the roads were quite quiet.. 🙂 The route can be downloaded from Google maps.


We sat, together, in the airconditioned room. ‘And then there was that!’ – and another story would be told with a smile from ear to ear. I met world-cycler Bernadette in Amsterdam at a cycling trade show a few years ago when I was excitedly planning my own world cycle tour. And now we find ourselves on the bike in Thailand – in bungalows overlooking a beautiful lake. ‘Good to see you!’ she screamed and we wrapped ourselves in a big hug.

Me and Bernadette

Me and Bernadette

We met at a little shop out the front of the resort. Bernadette couldn’t cycle due to cramp, and I couldn’t walk – my right hip tends to give way when I walk. It comes and goes. So, I cycle at walking pace to our bungalows next to Bernadette.

Today was undulating landscape cycling, firstly in the sun, and then through a shady park, passing elephant signs. No elephants, though.

Elephants

Elephants

We arranged to meet in a town Takrao that isn’t called Takrao, off a road that isn’t the 3259. I asked for directions to a town that isn’t called Wang Mai. Google maps and Maps.me got everything wrong about the naming. So, I find myself in a town whose name I’ve forgotten.


I have changed countries, and it feels like I have changed planets. In Cambodia the kids run around naked, screaming out hello and waving frantically. In Thailand the kids ignore me, but the slick cyclists sporting their lycra-wear, riding their ultra-light racing bikes wave hi. The little tin lean-tos selling drinks from their orange ice-chests are replaced by the always open airconditioned 7-eleven. It is a shame and a relief at the same time.

Entering Thailand

Entering Thailand

I stopped for a drink at a little lean-to in Cambodia. We soon got laughing, and before I knew it I was given some strange green fruits, and the naked baby on my lap for photos. My zombie-face gave some more laughs.

Funny faces

Funny faces

Over the border in Thailand, and the road got wider, the cars slicker, and the mopeds vanished. The new sim-card was to be bought in the 7-eleven – an air-conditioned paradise that never closes. They have chips, ice-cream, burgers and CHOCOLATE MILK.

I passed 24000km today.

24000km

24000km

I am no longer mute. I can say some rudimentary things in Thai, which is a big relief. It all feels more familiar – but less of an adventure. Bangkok is drawing near – my favourite Asian city.