Posts Tagged ‘Battambang’


I have changed countries, and it feels like I have changed planets. In Cambodia the kids run around naked, screaming out hello and waving frantically. In Thailand the kids ignore me, but the slick cyclists sporting their lycra-wear, riding their ultra-light racing bikes wave hi. The little tin lean-tos selling drinks from their orange ice-chests are replaced by the always open airconditioned 7-eleven. It is a shame and a relief at the same time.

Entering Thailand

Entering Thailand

I stopped for a drink at a little lean-to in Cambodia. We soon got laughing, and before I knew it I was given some strange green fruits, and the naked baby on my lap for photos. My zombie-face gave some more laughs.

Funny faces

Funny faces

Over the border in Thailand, and the road got wider, the cars slicker, and the mopeds vanished. The new sim-card was to be bought in the 7-eleven – an air-conditioned paradise that never closes. They have chips, ice-cream, burgers and CHOCOLATE MILK.

I passed 24000km today.

24000km

24000km

I am no longer mute. I can say some rudimentary things in Thai, which is a big relief. It all feels more familiar – but less of an adventure. Bangkok is drawing near – my favourite Asian city.

Day 276. 56km. Battambang

Posted: December 9, 2015 in Cambodia, Cycling
Tags: , ,

The bats were late. They were meant to start at 5:20.
‘Maybe it’s the first sign of the apocalypse,’ said Mark, the Scot, next to me.
Then it started. They poured out of the hole in the mountain like water pouring over a waterfull. A constant stream accompanied by the high-pitched squeal. The bats of Battambang.

The bats of Battambang. The stream lasted an hour.

The bats of Battambang. The stream lasted an hour.

‘Can we meet up a day earlier?’ I asked my Dutch cycling friend Bernadatte who is currently in the outer suburbs of Bangkok. ‘I’m ahead of schedule.’
She couldn’t, and sent me a list of things to do in Battambang. One by one I ticked them off – a ride on a bamboo train (a bamboo platform on two dismountable axles, run by a lawnmower engine), a temple, a ‘killing cave’ from the Pol Pot era, and a bat cave.

The bamboo train

The bamboo train

Me and Mark (the Scot)

Me and Mark (the Scot)

Phnom Banan

Phnom Banan

The Khmer Rouge killed about 30% of the Cambodian population. It was a dreadful part of this country’s history.

The killing cave

The killing cave

View over the Cambodian plains

View over the Cambodian plains


Siem Reap was an oasis of luxury on my trip. Cakes, oil massages and temples abound. After 5 days there, I left for the distant (by road) Battambang on the straight, flat and boring main road. I left at dawn, and arrived shortly before dusk. In between I cycled, cycled and cycled.

The flat road

The flat road

Mark had been in Siem Reap for 3 or 4 days already, frantically sending me luscious photos of the cakes he has been eating. Just after I arrived, a whole battalion of his friends from Hong Kong arrived for the half marathon, and together we explored Siem Reap, Angkor Wat and the Tonle Sap lake.

Tonle Sap lake

Tonle Sap lake

Tonle Sap lake

Tonle Sap lake

Lynda and I on the Tonle Sap lake

Lynda and I on the Tonle Sap lake

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

Bayan Temple

Bayan Temple

Ta Prohm temple

Ta Prohm temple

Siem Reap offers services to dream of. Just imagine – free WiFi while having a massage. The pinnacle of customer service!

WiFi and massage

WiFi and massage

After not having run for 8 months, I ran in the Angkor Wat half-marathon. I discovered running muscles are different to cycling ones. I could hardly move the next day. ☺

The Angkor Wat half-marathon

The Angkor Wat half-marathon

The Angkor Wat half-marathon

The Angkor Wat half-marathon

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat