Posts Tagged ‘Qalai Khumb’


The valley is one of walls. Walls of rock. We ply the road perched on the valley edge, watch the water gush past below, and the people walk along the impossible road etched into the side of the cliff-face opposite in Afghanistan.

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

The road is beautiful, undulating along this amazing valley. Compared to the last few days, the road surface is good (but still pretty dreadful), and so we could spend some mental energy gazing at the mountains of rock around us.

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

The road to Khorog

We have an amazing camp spot on a rocky peak overlooking Afghanistan. My first beat-bush to a camping spot. A lot of fun!


The road was steep. And rocky. The sun was shining, and the air was clear. And, man, it was beautiful. We bumped down along a stunning valley with sheer vertical walls. Little white ribbons of water slipping down the grass faces from the snow patches above. We made it all the way down to the vertical wall of rock – the Afghanistan border.

On the way down

On the way down

I have always been afraid of technical things. Getting your hands dirty. Fixing things that break. I see this bike trip as kind of like being in a relationship. Sometimes one is confronted with one’s fears. (Being single, you can just avoid the fears.) My fear is fixing the bike. Working out how devices I am carrying work. Adjusting everything properly. What if I do it wrongly and everything goes pear-shaped?
I am now proud to say that I have readjusted my panniers, tightened all the screws, and swapped my front and back tyre. I have also been frustrated and embarrassed at the eons I take to filter water. Something is wrong, and I need to work out what it is.

Tightening the screws

Tightening the screws

Today every screw was tested on the bike for tightness. It was a ragged old road. Rocks. Sand. Mud. Big holes. And, it was really fun, jiggling down the mountain in the warm sun. Every turn brought a new cry of joy. What an amazing view.

Pamir Highway 2015

Pamir Highway 2015

Ribbon of water

Ribbon of water

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