Posts Tagged ‘Machuca’


I went to bed last night with an altitude sickness headache and concerns about cycling the ruta de lagunas. I woke with a plan – one that involves a lot of cheating.

Frozen river at Machuca

Frozen river at Machuca

My struggle with climbing to 4000m with a fully loaded bike, coupled with a reread of the cycling blogs of people who have cycled the ruta de lagunas made me realise that the whole route I was planning was going to take longer than the 7 days I had read. After chatting with my friend Ty Domin, I think that taking a jeep to the half way point will do the trick.

Llamas at Machuca

Llamas at Machuca

Back in civilisation, it was time to feed up. From tomorrow it’s going to be tough.

Family sized pizza

Family sized pizza


4000m altitude has been reached, but it wasn’t easy. I’m lying, comfortable in my sleeping bag on a bed in Machuca village thinking how well I’ll sleep tonight.

Machuca village

Machuca village

Yesterday was meant to be a quick climb up to the thermal baths where I could relax for hours, acclimatising. It took me most of the day to get there. Today I was going to spend most of the day walking along a gorge but rather I climbed into the heavens, challenging myself to reach the next road sign before stopping. It was very slow going, but rewarding. Just by turning back I could see how high I was above the salt pan of the Salar de Atacama.

Looking back towards the saltpan

Looking back towards the saltpan

Looking back towards the saltpan

Looking back towards the saltpan

It is now clear to me that I’ll be taking a van to the high pass at the Bolivian border. Climbing from 2400m to 4600m in a day isn’t happening and I have better uses of my time. Sleeping at 4000m tonight will make me altitude ready for the Ruta de Lagunas in Bolivia.

I didn’t walk along the gorge today but I saw it from above, as did my drone. It was beautiful.

Guatin Gorge

Guatin Gorge

Guatin Gorge

Guatin Gorge

Guatin Gorge

Guatin Gorge

I love my lunch spot. A choice of sun or shade out of the wind in a little sandy space with a view out over the mountains.

Lunch spot

Lunch spot

I saw some more flamingos on a little lake, and I even saw some llamas.

Flamingo lake

Flamingo lake

The village I’m staying at is trying its hand at tourism. For me, it’s main inviting feature is that it’s at 4000m altitude. There’s a historic church that was closed.

Historic church at Machuca

Historic church at Machuca

It’s only 45km from San Pedro and on the way to the El Tatio geysers. Cars are faster than bikes and the tours don’t stop here. Makes it all the more peaceful for me. 🙂