Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’


I didn’t sleep too well, was up in the middle of the night, and got up before 5 to leave by 6. The excitement was getting to me, and now also the lack of sleep. Today was a cycle through the haze in my mind and the grey skies in the heavens.

Day 2. 128km. Sythen – Bad Essen. Map and gpx file.

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A cycle trip like the good old days with Ed – singing as we go. Sun, blue skies, strawberries, Rhein River in flood, motor bike cafe Schnitzel, everyone friendly. Ideal start to my cycle trip.

Day 1. 166km. Eindhoven -Sythen. Map and gpx

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On 8 June 2013 I will be leaving Eindhoven en route to the North Cape. Below is a list of items I plan to take, put together with advice from lots of people and my own experience over the last trips I have been on. This trip will be my longest trip by far (8 weeks beating my record of 2.5 weeks). All suggestions are welcome.

A lot of things to take

A lot of things to take

Bike and accessories

  • Bike: Koga Signature
  • Bike Panniers: Ortlieb. (2 front and 2 back).
    • Over the years I have used Jack Wolfskin and Agu panniers. All have not been entirely waterproof. I have not yet ridden in the rain with the Ortlieb panniers, but, from what I have heard, they truly are waterproof.
  • Two water bottles (bidons)
  • 1 bike pump
  • 1 heavy duty bike lock
  • Bike repair kit (for punctures, replace inner tube, repair broken spoke, oil, multitool kit)
  • 5 spare spokes
  • 1 replacement inner tube
  • 1 replacement tyre
  • 1 spanner – to remove the pedals

Electrical accessories

  • Smart phone: Samsung Galaxy S3.
    • Used to track my trip with EveryTrail, and to write this blog en route. 🙂 I have switched from an iPhone as Apple Maps (which EveryTrail is forced to use on the iPhone) do not display many of the roads I wish to cycle along.
  • Smart phone charger and battery packs: 3 spare batteries, and 2x Lenmar PowerPort Wave5000.
    • Being away from civilization for several days at a time means I need extra power for the smart phone to be able to keep on using it.. Another advantage of the Samsung over the iPhone is that the batteries can be swapped.
  • Smart phone battery charger
  • Smart phone battery pack charger
  • Mini tripod for camera
  • Cable for camera-pc connection
  • Smart phone waterproof holder for bike
  • Ear phones for smart phone
  • Webcam: Ion Air Pro
  • Camera
    • In the past I have taken an SLR camera. This year I am saving space with this, and taking a small camera that has all the functionality of an SLR camera. A Canon S100.
  • Camera charger

Camping Equipment

  • 2 heat pads (it can get cold up north)
  • 1 bowl
  • 1 pot set (2 pots and lid/pan)
  • MSR Whisperlite international cooker
  • lighter/waterproof matches
  • 1 plastic cutlery set
  • 1 swiss army knife
  • Tent + plastic sheet for under the tent
    • Super light and compact tent. Nordisk Telemark 2
  • Sleeping bag
  • Thermarest
  • Thermarest repair kit
  • Tent repair kit

Clothes

  • Trekking pants: (light, fast dry, zipper to turn them into shorts if the weather is right)
  • Fleece
  • Rain coat (Gortex)
  • Down jacket
  • 2 cycling shorts
  • Lycra long running pants (wear over the cycling shorts in cold weather)
  • Cycling gloves (for stopping blisters on the hands)
  • Warm waterproof gloves
  • Buff
  • Waterproof gaiters (to stop the shoes from getting wet)
  • Cycling tricot (1x short sleeve, 1x long sleeve)
  • Helmet
  • 3 underpants
  • 3 t-shirts
  • singlet
  • Teva Sandals
  • Warm, waterproof, hard soled, light weight hiking shoes (can cycle in them, can be evening shoes, and can do short several hour hikes with them on the cycle trip)
  • Socks (2x warm wool, 1x cooler)
  • Towel (small flannel towel – super compact)
  • 1 cap
  • 1 pair of sunglasses
  • Small, compactable pack to be used as rucksack for short hikes are errands to the shop etc.
  • Long sleeve inner layer for upper body
  • Paper thin rain coat layer (for warm rain)
  • Bathers
  • Mosquito face net

Food

  • Muesli bars
  • Bananas
  • Apples
  • Dried apricots
  • Dried pasta/sauce mix
  • Müsli
  • Powdered milk

Miscellaneous

  • Maps (for when the smart phone doesn’t work)
  • Tissues
  • Toilet paper + alcohol hand wash
  • Ear plugs
  • Sun screen
  • Pen
  • Torch
  • Medical kit
  • Needle and thread
  • Cable ties
  • Duct tape
  • Super glue
  • DEET insect repellant
  • String
  • Passport
  • Plane tickets
  • Money
  • Credit cards

Things not to take

  • Poncho: I took a poncho to Norway in 2012 and it was utterly useless. It was so windy (headwind), the poncho just meant that it was like sailing into the wind. Much better to take a proper Gortex raincoat and a paper thin rain shield for when it is warmer.

Contrary to yesterday, today was a day of burning through the kimometres (and the müsli bars). Blown by a gale tail wind, I scooted through Belgium and out the other end to Breda to take a night train back to Eindhoven. A final 7 km in Eindhoven saw me break my day record of 301 km.

I left the hotel shortly before 7 out into the cloudy, blustery morning. Maybe not ideal weather for sunbathing, but, perfect for cycling. You don’t sweat much, you don’t need much to drink, and you can go like (with) the wind. Learning from my last cycle to Calais, I avoided the coast. The area around Dunkirk is horrible for cycling, and I took a detour inland to my favourite place from last time – Licques – a cute little village nestled in a steep valley behind Calais.

From there I was bound east. And the wind was… also heading east. A match made in heaven. I have never had this. I look on the map – I need to head there. And then, next time I look, I am already there. Next place. Before I know it I’m there. After 70 odd kilometres, I found myself in Cassel – a village perched on the top of an unlikely hill in a fairly flat landscape. Some wares from the patisserie – and then a refill. I was hungry, and my appetite today was eternal.

Then, hello Belgium.

Hello Belgium

Hello Belgium

The morning was punctuated by stopping in market squares – ah yes, another cute little town hall.. 🙂

Poperinge

Poperinge

Tielt

Tielt

As time went on, I realized that today was not just going to see me enter well into Belgium to catch a train home. I could get much further. For a while I entertained the possibility to cycle all the way home to Eindhoven. When I finally zoomed out on the map to see all of Belgium when I was in Gent, I realized the impossibility of this – it would be about 350 km. Still, a day record (301 km+), and reaching the Netherlands was still in reach. But it would take a concerted effort. And minimizing stops.

On I went. No rain. But some serious looking clouds. It must have rained everywhere except over me.

No rain.

No rain.

Into Gent. Central square. Tick. Lovely buildings. Tick.

Gent

Gent

Out of Gent. More direct roads. Straight line with the wind. Speed speed speed. I arrived in Lokeren hungry and with not much water. Pizza. Quick and an energy boost. Then on. St. Niklaas, and through some suburbs of Antwerpen. How do I cross the harbour? Explored. Tunnel closed to bikes. How do I cross? Ask. Of course. The pedestrian tunnel (!). Cool.

Pedestrian tunnel in Antwerp

Pedestrian tunnel in Antwerp

It was 20:30 and getting distinctly dim. I didn’t know how far it was to Breda in the Netherlands, but, I had to be there by 23:21 to catch the last train. The road was dead straight. I could do it. Or die trying. Suburbs of Antwerp. More suburbs. Then forest. Then Wuustwezel. Then the border.

Entering the Netherlands

Entering the Netherlands

On and on. The train station was on the other side of Breda. Still, there was no traffic and I had some time up my sleeve. Just as I arrived at the Breda train station, the rain started – for the first time for me. And I was presented with a stairway to heaven – with a super heavy bike and 295 km in the legs.

Stairway to heaven

Stairway to heaven

Goal reached with 20 minutes to spare.

Breda

Breda

And then, some would say, the ultimate madness. Others understand. I cycled 7 km around Eindhoven in the rain at midnight to get my day total to 302 km – breaking the record I held with Ed when we cycled from Delft to Den Helder and back in a day. Then I could go to bed satisfied.

Day record

Day record


A pleasant day with no stress. No concrete deadlines saw us meander our way to Dover. Yes. Let’s pass through Sandwich and Deal. A late afternoon boat brought me back to the mainland.

No super early rise. I first left the tent at 7 and left by 10:30 or so. After about 3 km we were in Canterbury, and stopped at the cathedral. We were befriended by a ginger cat. Just something for me.

The cat in Canterbury cathedral

The cat in Canterbury cathedral

My souvenir from Canterbury is a beefeater cigarette lighter (for lighting my new stove). Before arriving, Chris warned how all the tourist shops are full of souvenir paraphernalia – from London. Now, every time I cook on my summer trip I will remember the long weekend trip in England. With souvenir shopping and grocery shopping (my snack bag needed continuous filling up), we didn’t leave Canterbury before 12. You could tell we were not in a hurry. But that is OK.

Following a more or less straight route to Dover, we passed a signpost – Sandwich 6 miles. My, that was close. We decided to go there. The first time we had a real tailwind – and it was lovely. Cruising uphill at 25-30 km/h. Downhill much faster. Sandwich was soon upon us. Then along the coast to Deal, where we had lunch is a cosy little place overlooking the sea. Despite not cycling much, we were both hungry. After bubble and squeak I ordered a chocolate cake. Chris did too.

The cake is mine!

The cake is mine!

The coast turned, and our final leg from Deal to Dover was not only up and up, but against a crushing headwind. The same wind that would blow me home tomorrow.

On reaching the top of the white cliffs of Dover, we saw a boat coming in. That could be my boat. Taking the shortcut down to the harbour (carrying our bikes) I made it to board that same boat.

My boat arrives in Dover

My boat arrives in Dover

I booked a hotel in Calais, and slogged against the now gale force winds from the harbour to the city to take my refuge for the night.


An early train from London to Chelmsford to join Chris on the second day of my England cycle trip. The weather got better and better and a side/tail wind soared our spirits.

A breakfast of porridge at Chris’ and I got to meet Val, after having heard so much about her. It rained during breakfast, but Val ordered nice weather for our trip, and it came to pass.

It was a very varied trip. We stated crossing with the horses.
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A little ferry trip across the Thames brought us into Kent.
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Then an interesting path through the docks.
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The weather really became lovely as we meandered through the fields.
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And then we stopped for a late lunch at Rochester. Lovely.
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Kent also has its fair share of mud flats. We followed a windy road around the coast, passing lots of ship wrecks.
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The cycle got nicer and nicer in the evening light. The route 1 twisted and turned through fields, over dikes, and over rolling hills.
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Light was running out, and we left route 1 to make some speed to get to a camping ground at Canterbury.

I used my new whisperlight cooker, new pots and new tent for the first time. All passed the test. My test is now approved wind and rain resistant. Yes. It rained at night. 🙂


Up bright and early, rising from my spaceous cabin on the Hoek van Holland – Harwich ferry, I battled into the wind across the pleasant English fields to London.

Travelling on the ferry – a massive ship full of shopping and entertainment possibilities – sweeps you away into the holiday spirit. Excited families wander around the multiple decks passing away the time on the overnight voyage. I had a wonderful cabin with shower all to myself. I got an early night for the 5:30 breakfast.

It was sunny in the early morning as I rode off the ferry and turned off onto national cycle path one that took me into Harwich centre along a lovely wooded path.
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I was accompanied with a gale force headwind. In Norway I learned a kind of zen acceptance of this. The scenery is beautiful and the wind just means you enjoy it longer. A lot longer.

I followed national cycle route 1 through lots of fields yellow with rape seed.
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Route 1 is rather circuitous as it meanders through the countryside. At times I thought it can’t be right as it lead me miles off track. My Google maps route took me to a dual carriageway. In this era of GPS, asking can still be the best way forward.

Lunch became a late lunch as it was such slow going to get to Chelmsford where Chris lives. He came especially from work to welcome me.
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Then on to London to visit Leigh. Chris gave me a pleasant and not too long route into London. My plans of cycling past all the tourist attractions before going to Leigh’s were dashed by the wind. Traffic lights were shaking in its force and a double decker bus swayed. The wind made me somewhat later than planned. 🙂

It was good to see Leigh again.
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I was awake before the sun. It was crisp – well, cold outside. My tent had a layer of ice as I left it to start my morning ritual. Today was a long and eventful day. It saw me cycle 205 km into the Parisian dusk.

Trip map and gpx.

The sky was clear, and the sun threw a long shadow and a beautiful soft light as I cycled through the pretty little village of Guise and through the fields.

Guise in the soft morning light

Guise in the soft morning light

Fields in the early morning

Fields in the early morning

The scenery was serene as I followed the Oise river in the sun. Unfortunately the wind had changed direction, and I now had a head wind. That, and the up and down (chopping off some of the meanderings of the river), it was slow going. But, all was better after stopping at a little boulangerie in a little village and buying a beautiful baguette sandwich and some other tasty morsels. And then eating them on some stairs in front of the boulangerie in the sun. This is France!

Fields

Fields

Then the irritation begun. I left my planned route (although I don’t think it existed in real life anyway), and found myself on a main road with trucks whizzing by. Attempts to leave the road resulted in crawling along stony sandy paths that meandered along getting nowhere slowly. Then the planned route (eurovelo) followed a canal. Only, there was no path that didn’t fizzle out. And then there was one, but, it was blocked by massive works on a bridge. There were also ‘no entry’ signs on the canal road, so, there was definitely no guarantee of the road not being blocked again. And the wind was strong, and blowing directly into my face.

Stretches of the canal were suddenly beautiful bike paths – from Appilly to Sempigny. And then, there was another massive bridge works. I crossed that bridge on the narrow pedestrian passage, lugging the bike up a narrow, steep and windy staircase – 3 times. Then the clouds got darker, the wind picked up, and I found myself contemplating a very busy road. Stop, Matthew. Time to eat. Frustration. Anger. Everything sucks. This is lack of sugar. You know that. I ate some müsli bars, and everything seemed better.

My trip to the massive supermarket saw me buy vast quantities of müsli bars. Enough to last the whole year. I still haven’t learned to counter the urge to buy the whole shop when hungry. After a proper lunch, the main road and head wind didn’t bother me, and before I knew it, I was in Compiegne.

The final blow was when I saw a sign – Paris 69km. It was already quite late in the afternoon. I wasn’t going to make it. And, then, the wind changed – it became a tail wind. I left the main road and was blown across beautiful fields, and through lovely villages, past beautiful castles. Life was better again, and I was cycling to Paris! Yay!

Castle

Castle

The big question was: could I get into Paris without going along an almost freeway? All roads become main freeways near Paris. My planned route had me going along a canal all the way into Paris. I didn’t believe that, though.. But, there it was. A beautifully signed and cared for bike path, just where it was meant to be. And it took me all the way into Paris.

It got darker and darker, but I was on the home stretch, and I had a tail wind. I hurtled along the canal. On and on. Passing runners, cyclists, fishermen, lovers sitting admiring the waters. It was a beautiful sunset. A bright pink sky.

Sunset near Paris

Sunset near Paris

And then I crossed the periferique. I was in Paris!

Hello Paris!

Hello Paris!

I had made it! 205km today, and 541km in total. I was happy.

The next day was the victory tour.

Arc du Triompf

Arc du Triompf

Eifel Tower

Eifel Tower


On day 2, the quest to clock up those kilometres was on. Paris was a long way away and I had two more days. I knew the terrain between Brussels and Paris was hilly, and so the quickest way to get there was not necessarily the shortest way as the crow flies (I am not a crow), but to follow waterways or old abandoned train tracks that have now become bike paths. I followed these where I could, and in between these, I just followed my nose (well, GPS on the smart phone).

Brussels – Guise. 191km

Following a suggested Brussels-Mons bike route, I started day 2 being blown down the canal that joins Brussels with Charleroi and Mons in the south. I learnt more about how canals work and how they connect cities of quite different altitude. First you have sluices. You have huge ramps transporting goods uphill when no more sluices will do the job. You have aqueducts. And an amazing massive sluice like a cliff face in the landscape.
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So I was officially in the hills. In fact, I had been in them for a while, and the canal had allowed me experience beautiful hilly landscape without the effort. Leaving the canal between Mons and Charleroi saw me start what I would do a lot more of. Up and down and up again. Through villages, across pastures, and through forests. I was following my nose connecting the canal with the start of my downloaded Eurovelo route, before I hit a Belgium bike route – RAVeL – that ended up connecting with Eurovelo at the French border.

I crossed over into France and was welcomed with a beautiful sight. A wonderful bike path following a river, and the hope that such bike infrastructure would be with me all the way to Paris – a mere 250km away.

Promise of bike paradise

Promise of bike paradise

With the wind at my back, the kilometres rolling past along a serene river, I was thinking – is that all – I though Paris was further. I am going to get there in the early afternoon tomorrow. I will have time to do lots of sightseeing. Just to be on the safe side, I decided to cycle at least 180km today to only have 150km tomorrow (assuming Paris was indeed 250km from that sign). Well, I cycled 191km on day 2, and Paris was a lot further away that the planned 150km on day 3. The sign was more an indication that biking infrastructure is planned. In places it existed. Most of the time it didn’t. Maybe Paris was 250km from that sign. It certainly wasn’t the way I went.

Well, for those that are interested, there is a beautiful bike path from the Belgian border to Mauberge, there is a signposted route along normal roads (sometimes main roads) to another cycle path from Ferriere la Grande to Glageon. These were part of the voies vertes bike network in France. The route I followed to my endpoint in Guise was quite pleasant along little country roads. Guise itself is a cute little country town on the Oise river where I set up tent and devoured a big pizza.

Near Guise

Near Guise


What was originally going to be a continuation from last week’s cycle from Givet to Paris was thrown on its head when a friend from Brussels invited me over. I calculated, Paris should still be reachable with the first night in Brussels. The second and third days would be long, but the wind was blowing in the right direction, and I was motivated.

I needed a route to get me to Paris. I pasted one together using the bike node system in Flanders in Belgium,  a route I found from Brussels to Mons along a canal, and bits of eurovelo 3 that supposedly went to Paris and further. I threw the gear into the paniers and I was all set. This what I ended up cycling.

Eindhoven - Paris by bike

Eindhoven – Paris by bike

Day 1


Link to interactive map and gpx.

It’s always lovely cycling in the early morning along the canals in Belgium. A layer of mist hangs low over the water, steaming up into the skies. Birds chirp and the occasional one plops into the water out of my sight as I pass. The air was fresh – well, cold. I cycled fast to get the blood flowing, warm gloves on to slow down the freezing of my hands.

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Mother nature wanted me to get to Brussels quickly. I was blown down those canals and across those fields. It was wonderful. And the roads were quiet taking me through nature.

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I am rarely in this situation. I am going to get to my destination way ahead of time. The winds were too strong. 😉 Time to do the tourist rounds of Brussels before meeting with Kevin.

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Somewhat of a rarity on my bike trips, I finished around 5, but was in Brussels at 4. I could have a relaxing evening. We went for a nice dinner at a thai restaurant and had a chat. All ready and rested for the early start. Day 2 and 3 would have to be big to reach Paris!