Posts Tagged ‘Cycling’

Day 250. 71km. Pong Dong – Kasi

Posted: November 7, 2015 in Cycling, Laos
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Steep! Very steep! Cloudy skies, cool temperatures, and a little tailwind made it a bit easier. From 750m to 2050m and down to 650m with lots of uphill intermissions. Coming down was straight and fast – an adrenalin rush. All with the beautiful green, kaarst landscape as a backdrop.

Looking down into the high valley between 2 passes.

Looking down into the high valley between 2 passes.

I lie at the top, on the concrete, facing up into the heavens. I laugh. And laugh. I’ve cycled to Laos. I’ve cycled up this steep, steep road. The view is spectacular. My body feels strong (even if I am knackered). I have made it. I am here. Now. And I am happy.

Meat and veg

Meat and veg

The banana kids

The banana kids

Steep steep

Steep steep

In the morning we were blessed by the monk. His blessing got us over the pass.

In the morning we were blessed by the monk. His blessing got us over the pass.


What a contrast. The rain closes in your horizons. Not only the eyes can’t see, but the mind turns inward to escape the rain. Today the sun shone on the wide, wide open expanses. This country feels huge, and I – the little ant – roll down from the mountains into the endlessness. Cycling through, I feel a tiny part of this huge planet – this little blue dot in the universe – the little blue dot I call home.

The wild west

The wild west

Today was a day for a side trip – to Sharyn Canyon. Recommended by everyone, it involved leaving the main road and going cross-country on a little corrugated sandy path. This was a highlight. No traffic. Just a little sandy line continuing onto the horizon, traversing the vast open plains of low-lying grass.

The long, straight road

The long, straight road

The sandy road

The sandy road

The lonely road

The lonely road

The canyon is an amazing valley, carved out of the flat surrounding landscape. Views from above abound. Getting down to the water with the bike was impossible (as the road was too steep to push the bike back up).

Sharyn canyon

Sharyn canyon

Sharyn Canyon

Sharyn Canyon

Sharyn Canyon

Sharyn Canyon

I met my camping companions David and Isabella at the canyon. They are also cycling around, and, together, we found a wild camping spot neat the Sharyn River.

For the record, in case people are looking for the information I was unable to find on the internet: it is not possible to cycle along the length of the Sharyn Canyon. The photos that are to be found with cars on roads at the bottom of the canyon, are all within 5km of the Sharyn Canyon Park entrance. The park entrance is 10km along a dusty corrugated road from the main road. It is a further 22km along a dusty, corrugated road to reach the main road near Shonzy (there are lots of different spellings for this name).


The orange-clad monk beamed with his 3-teeth grin and his wispy 3-haired beard. Opening the door to his living quarters, he pointed to the television blaring in the corner. ‘Waw’ – bull, he chuckled. The crowd on the television, and the monk cheered as the two bulls locked horns. A thumbs-up from the monk. Evening entertainment at the temple.

Mark and the monk

Mark and the monk

Today was a cycle to the bottom of the high pass, and see what the universe provides for accommodation. Mark had sent his tent back home from Luang Prabang, and I had sent home my cooking equipment. We were much lighter, and could speed over the hills, but we couldn’t camp tonight. We knew there was no guesthouse on the way.
No, we couldn’t stay in the little restaurant, or in someone’s shed. The monks were lovely, and set up a sleeping place for us on their verandah. My first time sleeping at a Buddhist temple. ☺

Mark charmed the kids repeatedly in the little villages and at the temple.

The kids

The kids

Today was hilly, and steep in parts. Tomorrow is the big climb that everyone warns us about. Steep, steep, steep, apparently.

Riding to our temple home

Riding to our temple home


The border wasn’t as near as I thought, and once I crossed it, the rain, which had abated briefly, really set in. With a wet tent, and no hotels in sight after Kegen, I stopped at about 13:30 for lunch, and stayed for the night.

Tenge

Tenge

This is a remote part of the world. The only road is rocky, and bumpy. I saw one shop in about 50km of cycling. I saw lots of yurts. Lots of bee-keepers. Lots of wide open spaces.

Rocky descent

Rocky descent

Shop
Road to the border

Road to the border

I also met two other travellers – a French motorcyclist and a French cyclist – both coming from Kazakhstan. They gave me tips for the road ahead. I had no idea of what this part of Kazakhstan has to offer – it was just something between Kyrgyzstan and China. Let’s see now what I can find here.


I wasn’t expecting it, but, today turned into a head-down and burn the kilometre day. Cycling along the ‘Sabai dee’ valley of little kids waving in excitement, we made it to the beautiful jewel of Laos – Luang Prabang.

River

River

With Luang Prabang 140km away, and with the limited daylight hours, and evening spent on the way seemed inevitable. After an early start, and a quick 1000m descent along improved roads, we started out eating the kilometres to our distant goal. The mountains got pointier, and we hit the languid river that would follow us into Luang Prabang. Beautiful.

The river

The river

River

River


Karakol meant late nights for me, and people that speak my language (so interesting conversations). Late nights meant a late start today, and a stress-free amble towards the Kazakhstan border.

The steep climb

The steep climb

I soon realised I would not make it before 18:00 when the border closes, so I took my time, and was able choose a camp for the last time in Krygyzstan high horse and yurt country. I had my last Kyrgyz yurt invitation, where I was given fresh milk, bread and honey, and my last view out over Kyrgyzstan.

View from my campsite

View from my campsite


Hit by a truck. Torrential downpour. Muddy road. Result: we didn’t make it over the two passes we wanted to today, but rather to a lovely new hotel/restaurant at the top of a pass. Very pleasant!

Sunset at the top of the pass

Sunset at the top of the pass

BANG! The whole bike bolted forward, almost hitting the cement water barrier. The truck behind me stopped, and the driver got out. He was very apologetic. We looked at the bike, and, amazingly, nothing seemed to be damaged at all. The wheel was straight, no spokes broken. He hit me directly from behind, and I just bounced off him like a ball.

The other excitement today was the amazing downpour. The heavens opened and it bucketed down. I went under a small bamboo motorbike shelter, and felt bad when Mark couldn’t fit and insisted on continuing in the pouring rain. It continued to teem down for an hour as I huddled under my tiny shelter, getting quite cold. Mark sheltered a few kilometres further along under a shelter for fruit sellers.

Mark in a village

Mark in a village


The positions of the passes are dictating our itinerary. Today was a short day to the bottom of the big double pass tomorrow. Time for Mark to pull out the Polaroid and take photos of the kids. Lots of excitement was had by all.

Mark with the polaroid at the kids

Mark with the polaroid at the kids

The passes seem short when you’re deep in conversation about anything and everything. It is good catching up with Mark, and being able to converse at full bandwidth with no language barrier. With Bangladesh looking quite dangerous these days, my forward plans are being reshaped. Borneo (side trip) – here I come!

Rice fields

Rice fields

Day 175. 0km. Karakol

Posted: November 1, 2015 in Cycling, Kyrgyzstan
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“Chu, chu, chu!” This horse-speak for ‘go’. My horse wasn’t going anywhere, and the horseman guide indicated that I should hit the horse even harder with the stick he had given me. Finally we ambled along, up the valley, walled with stunning red rock faces, all the way to the hot-springs. A relaxing day off in Karakol.

Up the valley

Up the valley

The red valley

The red valley

Up the valley

Up the valley

Trying to go fast

Trying to go fast


The closer to real-time posts will start, now that I am in Laos, and have left China. The daily posts through China will continue until January until I reach Luang Namtha. 🙂

It’s been nearly 8000km since Mark and I cycled together in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. We are now back together in Laos, while Will and Kim – the other 4 of our central Asian party – are together in Bishkek. The tropical rolling hills of Laos are a stark contrast to the dusty, windswept high altitude plains of Tajikistan. Also, in Tajikistan, we couldn’t pig out on unrecognizable tropical fruit and delicious smoothies. Laos!

21000km

21000km

I passed my 21000km at the top of a little climb. Tomorrow is a short day over a pass, and sleeping at the bottom of the next pass.