Well. That wasn’t what I’d planned for. I’m in San Pedro planning to catch buses and getting a new passport.
San Pedro de Atacama
Tomorrow and the day after are acclimatision trips before I venture to the high plains in Bolivia. After today, it’ll be great to get on the bike again.
I sat in the shade looking out over the shallow lake with flamingos. They were wading along, head in the water.
Laguna Chaxa
Today was a flat affair, speeding along the road to the big smoke of San Pedro de Atacama. I watched as the chain of Andean mountains slowly slid behind as I moved forward.
Llamas crossing
The Andes mountain chain slides past.
Now I need to think about how to acclimatise (altitude-wise) for the next leg of the trip at 4300m.
Over the top of the pass and below me opened out a great flat expanse with the high mountains in the background. Crossing the Salar de Atacama was my task this afternoon.
View out over Laguna de Atacama
It was always going to be a push to make it to civilisation today in Peine. I thought it was just over 100km. In the end I cycled 117km, arriving in Peine as the sun was setting.
The dying rays of light on Laguna de Atacama
With 27km to go, it was flat, straight ahead crossing the endless plain. Time for an Infected Mushroom music energy boost. I felt super strong as I accelerated, cycling in this beautiful place. I’m on the road again!
Peine 27km
But most of the day was spent crossing the absolutely barren landscape of the Atacama Desert. Endless expanses of rocky plains with mounds popping up randomly.
The nothingness of the Atacama Desert
My goal for lunch was a ruin of a stone house near the top of the pass. It’s shade sounded perfect for a break in the hottest time of the day.
A room with a view
I was waiting for the standard lull in the wind around lunch before it changes from a headwind to a tailwind. I caught the lull so out came the drone!
The view from above
What a beautiful day. Amazing landscape and a physical challenge. Perfect!
‘This is glorious – God’s creation. Look around and see the beauty.’
He was so excited as he spoke to me after pulling me aside.
The truck drivers were in form today.
The truck drivers were friendly
Another driver stopped and insisted he load the bike onto tbe back of the truck – it’s too far on the bike. Another gave me water. All tooted their horn and gave me the thumbs up.
The weather seems to follow a pattern. It’s been the same both days. A morning head wind, a midday calm and an afternoon tailwind. Today I crawled up the hill out of Baquedano into the wind to the last shop 10km away. A truckie stop, I filled up on a kind of créme au caramel and a jelly trifle.
Truckie stop
I then passed a solitary tree that comes with its own sign ‘agua por favor’ – ‘water please’. There seems to be no lack of doners. The ground was very damp around the tree.
Agua por favor
Again, like yesterday, midday was not only windstill but the sun was strong. Stopping anywhere in the sun, the sweat rolls off my body. Lunch has to be eaten where there is a building. This time it was at a mine guard’s building. They were happy to let me eat in the shade there, but there was speak of ‘contaminacion’ and acid and other nasties. People were walking around with gas masks. I was careful to stay away from the copper mine’s nasties while I ate my lunch in the shade.
Mining lunch stop
My decision at the end of the day was whether to risk returning cramp and make the climb for 10km ahead of me or try to camp at a particularly exposed landscape. I pushed on up the dead straight climb that I had seen from 25km back and made it to my flat spot up the top of the pass back from the road behind some mounds.
The climb ahead is visible
Dinner was pasta and a tin of canned fish. It tasted awful and I lay for several hours in bed hyperventilating, wondering if I was going to throw up.
I didn’t.
The dog stopped barking when he saw me, ran up to me, and gave me a big lick on the leg. He then sat on my lap, trying to lick my face as I relaxed under the trees looking out at the 40 year old eucalyptus tree.
Comunidad Gren
All this green had popped up out of an absolute barren moonscape. Not a blade of grass and then, suddenly, trees and signs of life on the side of the road. Comunidad Gen. An old lady came out of a hut under the trees. She talked and talked in Spanish – happy to see someone. Noone ever comes during the week. Have I seen the chickens, goats, rabbits and ducks? The water for all this is transported from the coast. She has been here from the beginning, and planted that eucalyptus tree 40 years ago. She was proud of the project and happy with life.
Comunidad Gren
It was hot today and the sun was just so strong. Not a cloud in the sky. Nothing but blue sky and bright sand. I would stop under the shade of road signs to put more sunscreen on and had lunch in the shade behind a truck weigh station building.
Near Comunidad Gren
Near Comunidad Gren
I passed the Tropic of Capricorn as I was blown forward by a strong tailwind.
Tropic of Capricorn
I’m in Baquedano – a mining town. It has a bit of a wild west frontier feeling. It’s the last stop before I leave the main road and head towards the small town of Peine – 208km away.
Baquedano
Baquedano
Baquedano
‘Give me a tip. 20,000 or 40,000 – it’s up to you.’ ($A40 or $A80). What could I do? He had my bike.
How did this happen?
‘Antofagasta?’
‘Yes,’ I replied, bike and luggage in hand at Santiago airport, freshly out from customs, just through the sliding door.
‘You’re going to be late!’
That’s when the whirlwind started.
He whisked me away, up lifts, across hallways, jumping queues.
My bag was dropped off at the check-in and the bike was whisked away to oversized luggage by his colleagues while we ran to security.
He also took me past the ATM. I wanted to go to one anyway.
So, my bike with his colleagues somewhere back there and security ahead, he asked for a tip. And not a small one. I only had large denomination notes and he knew it. He had been helpful. He was an airport official. But asking for the tip made me wonder if my bike was going to arrive in Antofagasta at all.
I used my newly refreshed Spanish at the gate to check that the luggage was, indeed, on the plane.
Nothing bad had happened. Lesson learned. Be careful.
The bike arrived in one piece and survived me putting it together.
My evening and next day in Antofagasta was spent sitting on the balcony, getting provisions for crossing the Atacama Desert and watching kids dance in large square.
View from my balcony
A nice lawn for urination
The dancing kids
It seemed that the dancers were all teenage girls, some non-binary kids and effeminate guys. Quite an interesting mix.
Tomorrow the bike trip starts – up and out of Antofagasta and into the Atacama Desert.
It was a camping expedition – not so much of a cycle. Train to Lithgow. Short cycle. Test the drone. Test the stove. Test the tent. Test the sleeping bag.
Lost city is spectacular and it was a beautiful evening. The equipment works – although I rushed home to buy a warmer down jacket. 🙂 Now I am ready for Chile and Bolivia.
The Grand Canyon walk in the Blue Mountains is a very popular 3-4 hour walk. What fewer people know are the little side trips deep into the gorge, away from the hoards and into the bosom of nature.
The start of the trip is a short cycle from Blackheath station in the Blue Mountains.
Start: Blackheath Station
End: Blackheath Station
Total distance: 20km
Strava link
At the start of the Grand Canyon walk
The main path drops down into the valley. At two points, rather than following the sign to the canyon walk, go in the opposite direction upstream. It is beautiful.
Upstream in the Grand Canyon
The light penetrates into the Grand Canyon
A bit of scrambling over logs
You can only get so far going upstream until a swim is required. Being a bloody cold day, I made this the end of my little foray.
A cold dip
The Grand Canyon
The days are getting very short and winter is setting in. Jump Rock was on the menu today – a beautiful spot on the Macquarie Creek where the water tumbles over some rocks into a little pool – ideal for jumping in the summer. Then I cycled further up the creek past Clover Hill to a series of waterfalls, ending in Clover Falls.
Start: Albion Park Station
End: Albion Park Station
Total distance: 50km
Strava link
A short ride from Albion Park station up towards the Macquarie Pass.
The road to Macquarie Pass
Then a little hiking trail following the Macquarie Creek up towards Jump Rock.
Towards Jump Rock
Jump Rock
Jump Rock
Then, a little further upstream, is the path that passes an old clearing and an abandoned house on Clover Hill.
Towards Clover Hill
Towards Clover Hill
Clover Hill
From the ruin at Clover Hill
After Clover Hill the path returns to the Macquarie Creek and past a few waterfalls. The last one – Clover Falls – takes a bit of scrambling to reach. Well worth it though.
Rainbow Falls
Rainbow Falls
Rainbow Falls
Clover Falls
With the Blue Mountains trains not running due to track works, I decided to venture south again, cycle 6km from Tahmoor station and spend the day walking to Mermaids Pool and through the Bargo Gorge. Catching the first train in the morning meant that I had the whole beautiful gorge to myself.
Start: Tahmoor Station
End: Tahmoor Station
Total distance: 20km
Strava link
It is a fairly easy walk along the valley, and sometimes above it, to the beautiful Mermaids Pool. The fresh cool water slips over flat slabs of rock and over a waterfall down to the pool below.
The Bargo River just after sunrise
Sink hole
Rocks in the sun
Don’t jump
Mermaids Pool
Mermaids Pool
After the pool there is a loop path that ventures further downstream through the Bargo River Gorge. With vertical cliffs on either side, beautiful flat rocks and clear water slipping through the gorge, it was a beautiful walk in the early morning light.
Bargo Gorge
Bargo Gorge
There was no chance of getting lost or slipping on a descent. There were guide ropes at any slight downhill section, and there were blue ribbons galore on every second tree marking the way.
After a few kilometres the path climbs to the top of the gorge and treats the walker to views from above.
A walk well worth doing!
arctic-cycler.com 