Archive for the ‘Malaysia’ Category


With the Chinese New Year holiday coming up, we realised we needed to be in Singapore as early as possible to arrange things while everything is open. This meant head down, along the straight main road. A perfect time to start my Indonesian language course. Nama saya Matthew. Saya oran Australia – or German – or Dutch. I’m not sure. ☺

Our lovely host Acid and his friends

Our lovely host Acid and his friends

We had a lovely farewell breakfast with Acid and two other cycling friends before heading on towards Singapore. Our final resting place is in amongst the banana and coconut palms in a little gazebo in front of a house. It comes complete with electricity and shower.. ☺

Shower

Shower

Near our house

Near our house


Since Savannakhet in Laos, except for short breaks of a few days with others, I have been cycling alone. Early to rise, stop when I like, eat when I like. Sleep. The last few days cycling with Clement we have slept in and talked, eaten and talked, experienced and talked. That different cycling experience once more – and I like it.

Clement cycling through the palm trees

Clement cycling through the palm trees

We sit up to our chest in the tranquil bath-warm water, the rocks poking out of the sea to the side, the sandy beach lined with palm trees in front of us, and behind us, one of the most important stretches of water in the world – the straights of Malacca. All night from our sleeping vantage-point on the little verandah looking out over the sea, we saw the horizon lit with huge vessels plying this critical shipping corridor. Now, in the morning, we sat and agreed how lucky we both were to be able to be here in this beautiful place, and be on this amazing bike trip – Clement Europe to here via India, and me via China.

Today we met Acid – an active member of cycling Facebook groups that I have been in contact with for a long time. He showed us little side paths away from the highway right up to his house. It was beautiful cycling down Dutch-style cycling paths, but this time not through Dutch forests and polders with cows, but amongst coconut palms. This is the type of road I came here to cycle. Coconut palms remain exotic and exciting for me, and being immersed amongst them I feel I have come such a long way.

Acid, Clement and me.

Acid, Clement and me.

Through the palm trees

Through the palm trees

Melaka

Melaka

The broad planning for the way forward to Australia is now being planned. Each with a few different activities planned en route, we are both going the same direction down to East Timor and then Australia. How to arrange that, how long will each option take, and how to sort out the limited two-month Indonesian visas? I will be cycling to Australia for a lot of the way with Clement and Will. Now is the time to work out how to puzzle the grand plan together. A day off in Muar to do this, with the knowledge and experience of Acid.


Clement came to a screeching halt. I did too in response. His back wheel was stuck, blocked by his stand that was twisted through 360 degrees by a solitary spoke.
‘They said these spokes were strong,’ said Clement.
I guess ‘they’ meant it.

Twisted stand

Twisted stand

Today we cycled along the coast from a beautiful camping spot to a spectacular camping spot. My first experience in my new hammock was good, once I got the balance worked out (I tumbled out once). It was lovely to wake up suspended above the sand on a tropical beach.

Good morning

Good morning

Check out our camping spot for tonight!

Our camping spot

Our camping spot

Our camping spot

Our camping spot

Our camping spot

Our camping spot


Sitting in the warm water as the last light fades to black, we look at the two bikes, silhouetted, standing side by side on the exposed sand bar. This is brilliant. And then Clement’s bike tips over. The tide is rising! We sprint across the shin-deep water to rescue the bikes from the salt. Back on the ocean in Malaysia.

The bikes on the beach

The bikes on the beach

Back on the road again, this time with Clement. We met in Dubrovnik in Croatia in 2014 at the start of our trips. Since then he has crossed India, and I have crossed China. We have both covered about 27000km. So many stories to tell. Clement, my inspiration to try dumpster diving in Adelaide, lives on almost no money each day. I am going to try to follow along. When all is quiet, Clement will set up his tent, and I will put up my brand new hammock – directly on the beach. It will be amazing!

I had a nice break in Kuala Lumpur, meeting some lovely new cycling people, sharing lots of stories. And my bike got the most thorough cleaning and check-over for ages. Thanks Akmal for your help!

Leaving the hostel in Kuala Lumpur

Leaving the hostel in Kuala Lumpur

Bike maintenance

Bike maintenance

The Petronas Towers

The Petronas Towers


‘Bike. No!’
Taking in the moment of having arrived in Kuala Lumpur, with the Petronas towers behind me was difficult with the guard talking into his walkie-talkie to get backup to remove this non-compliant cyclist. I guess this is what it is like living in the age of terror.

Made it - Petronas towers, Kuala Lumpur

Made it – Petronas towers, Kuala Lumpur

Thanks SK Lah for the great route suggestion. Cycling right up to a megacity has never been this quiet and beautiful. Cycling over a little 600m pass, I was in the dense forest up until 17km before Kuala Lumpur. I was a bit edgy eating my bananas with the hungry looking monkeys pacing around in the background.

Dense jungle near Kuala Lumpur

Dense jungle near Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur itself is a maze of freeways that are not crossable, and lots of one-way major roads. As the temperature was not so high today, I was not hot and bothered – just bothered – being forced to turn down streets I didn’t want to. I finally arrived at my destination – Akmal’s bicycle hostel. Looking forward to meet Akmal and the other cyclists staying here.

Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur

Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur

BTW: there were some people reading my blog that said they would like to meet for a drink when I’m in KL. I have written to two, but, I think there were others, and I can’t find their coordinates.. Let me know if you are still interested in catching up.. ☺


‘Your country has the four seasons, la?’
I had never thought of it like that.
‘That is the durian tree.’ He pointed to a surprisingly tall and wily tree amongst the vegetation. ‘The best durian comes from here.’
And I cycled past jackfruit seller after jackfruit seller, meticulously peeling away each segment from the giant fruit and putting them on trays for sale – all in the sweltering heat. How different this is from home – and how exotic!

Preparing jackfruit

Preparing jackfruit

The road was less steep and twisty, the wind was at my back. I cycled through endless palm plantations – sometimes visible stretching for miles when I reached the top of a little rise.

Palm plantation

Palm plantation

Palm plantation

Palm plantation

My goal was Bentong. At the bottom of the last little mountain ridge, it is my base for the final assault on Kuala Lumpur tomorrow. The last 5km into Bentong were like the last 5km at the top of the Cameron Highlands – traffic jam. The same masses from Kuala Lumpur that were swarming to the highlands for the long weekend were now returning home. Again I scooted past kilometre after kilometre of stationary cars as I rolled down into Bentong. I’m glad I’m not going to Kuala Lumpur today!


Today I (and thousands of others) admired the beautiful teabush landscape of the Cameron Highlands. Today, I also misjudged my water supply and nearly ran out, slogging my way down in the heat to just above sea level. The highlands are cool. The lowlands are hot!

The Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands

The masses were in the highlands as it is a long weekend – and super-hot weather down below. The people were in the Cameron Highlands en masse, driving, roaring around on their motorbikes, or just sipping tea. Oh, and there were people beating drums and walking around with rods pierced through their cheeks. Some people get very excited if it is a long weekend! ☺

Indian festival

Indian festival

Note to self: dropping 1500m in Malaysia can be hot and sweaty work. Yesterday, going uphill, I took enough water and gave some to some thirsty cyclists. Today, going downhill, I almost ran out. The undulating descent was coupled with a strong headwind, which stopped lower down when the road just climbed and dropped and climbed – all in the bright sun and heat.
As my supply dwindled with 40km to go to a definite town, I asked some motorcyclists where the next shop was. About 10km. Phew! Just in case, I filled up a bottle from a trickle of water from the side of the mountain.

The undulations

The undulations

The road finished with a stretch through my first serious palm plantations.

Palm plantations

Palm plantations

But, here are some more photos of the Cameron Highlands.

The Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands


When I left Ipoh this morning I didn’t expect to be camping in a closed camping ground eating my snack provisions for dinner, but so it has come to bear. It seems I was not the only one thinking about escaping the heat for the weekend in the Cameron Highlands.

The way up to the Cameron Highlands

The way up to the Cameron Highlands

On the plains the sweat pours down from me. The climb was to be 1500m over 40km, including 28km without shops. On steep long climbs I calculate 5km/h, so this meant I would need enough water for 5 hours! I stocked up on water and kept my fingers crossed. I hoped the metres I climb early would compensate for the increasing temperature as the sun moves overhead.

The way up to the Cameron Highlands

The way up to the Cameron Highlands

A squadron of cyclists on their racing bikes were keeping pace with me, mostly a few hundred metres ahead or behind. Then, into the 28km shop-free stretch, I passed a pair of the cyclists waiting under a tree, protected from the heat.
‘Can we have some water?’
They only had one little bidon each. I left the last shop with 6 litres. They pulled out food to give me. We all knew that water was the valuable commodity here, and I was unsure if my stocks would be enough. I shared some of my water and banana cake, and got a Snickers in return. Little did I know that the Snickers would be invaluable later in the day when food was the scarce commodity.

My cycling friends

My cycling friends

The day was coming to an end, as was the climbing. I was heading for the most famous towns on the Cameron Highlands with squillions of hotels and restaurants just past the highest altitude point. I passed over the summit with its big tourist complex, and ran into a massive traffic jam.

Tourist complex

Tourist complex

Traffic jam

Traffic jam

I could scoot past the cars on the wrong side of the road, but, as I passed kilometre after kilometre of cars, I started to realise that accommodation was going to be an issue. And indeed it was. Every single one of the squillion hotels was full, and it was getting dark. Plan B was camping, but there was nowhere to camp in between the squillion hotels. Past a golf course (could I camp there?), I heard of a camping ground. Perfect. My little tent will always fit. Unfortunately the camping ground was closed, but, after some sweet talking with the security guard, I was allowed to set up my tent. I dared not leave looking for food, lest he change his mind, so, tonight’s dinner was my snack bag – and the Snickers gift.


A day of big roads, Indian food and wall murals. The clouds were out and a tailwind at the end of the day made for easy sailing. A filling of food and wall murals sees me now fit for the 1500m climb tomorrow up into the less hot heights of the Cameron Highlands.

Wall mural, Ipoh

Wall mural, Ipoh

Wall mural, Ipoh

Wall mural, Ipoh

Wall mural, Ipoh

Wall mural, Ipoh

Malaysia is amazingly multicultural. Indian, Chinese, Malay all mixed together. Food, a diversity of scripts (southern Indian and Chinese as well as the latin script) make it feel like a welcoming place.


Traffic lights. They have not been much of my life on this trip. I was rarely in towns and mostly on the open road – they were unimportant. Today, avoiding the freeways, I took the only roads that existed – major secondary roads with regular traffic lights. A red light means the sweat pours down as I wait for it to change in the blaring sun. Red is a very appropriate colour.

Street art, Georgetown

Street art, Georgetown

I woke up today knowing that I was going to leave Georgetown without spending an extra day. It was hot, lots of tourists, and the old English colonial feeling could be experienced by a short random cycle through the small alleyways.

Street art, Georgetown

Street art, Georgetown

Leaving Georgetown was an exercise of avoiding the freeways by sticking to the 8-lane non-freeways, sometimes zigzagging back and forth from one side of the freeway to the other. With the non-existant emergency lane, and lots of trucks, it was not such a relaxing ride. The noise prevented me from listening to my audible book. No danger of not hearing an oncoming truck. In all this concentration, I missed my 26000km mark.

26000km

26000km

After a while the road got more rural, and the last part into Taiping was pleasant again.

Rural road

Rural road

Tomorrow to Ipoh at the base of the climb up into the Cameron Heights.

Street art, Georgetown

Street art, Georgetown