Archive for the ‘Cycling’ Category


Today I left the Tibetan Plateau, I dropped below 3000m, and will stay there for the rest of the trip. The drop was fun. First 60km of small ups and downs staying at 3400m, and then down and down and down – to 2100m in 40km. It was fast.

On the way to the Tiger Leaping Gorge

On the way to the Tiger Leaping Gorge

Today the goal was the Tiger Leaping Gorge. A guy at the lodge knew all about it. I should leave my bike and stuff at the base, and climb up to the first guesthouse on the mountain today. It is too hot and unpleasant at the base of the walk. So.. 100km cycling, and then 2 hours of hiking. I am now looking out over a wall of pointy mountains as the sun goes down. The Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Teeth mountains

Teeth mountains


Today was always going to be a short day – over a little 400m bump before getting lots of odds and ends done in Shangri La. The road was good, and I was soon in Shangri La – the town of haircuts, brake pad changes and working on the video.

Red valley

Red valley


The climb continued today with large quantities of pushing the bike. It just didn’t get any less steep until the very end. It remained beautiful, following the river to a bowl of rocky mountains. The road then climbed up the side to have a spectacular view over the valley.

Switchbacks

Switchbacks

The pass was around 4500m – a mammoth climb from the valley at 2350m, all on rocky, sandy, bumpy road. Still, the bad road didn’t matter. It was a challenge, in the sun, and in this beautiful, beautiful place. The bumpy road was more annoying on the way down, meaning that it was about 7km/h down (more than the 2km/h going up)..

The road up

The road up

Near the top

Near the top

Steep road up

Steep road up

Looking down from the pass

Looking down from the pass

Perched on the side of the hill

Perched on the side of the hill

Rocky peaks

Rocky peaks

Valley from above

Valley from above


The switchbacks started, and I thought, ‘this is not as hard as all that.’ Then there was no more room in the valley for switchbacks and the rocky, dusty road followed the river – straight up. I cycled. Fell off as I rock took away my 2km/h. I walked, cycled, walked. Then walked, rested, walked. This valley is beautiful, but, man, it is steep!

Rising from the valley

Rising from the valley

I had been told of the cheese factory – about 40km away. A good place for lunch, I thought. The first 20km were roadworks – this time without rain or mud, which made them more bearable. It is not the bad roads that I mind with roadworks. It is the constant noise of trucks, drilling, cement mixing. Pulling over constantly to allow trucks to pass, leaving a cloud of dust in their wake.

Roadworks

Roadworks

Rocky, sandy, steep roads without roadworks are fun. The valley was amazing. First stunning views from the switchbacks, and then glimpses of high peaks vertically up, peeking between the dense rainforest foliage. I loved the road – first grunting to see how far I can make it cycling before falling off. Then, how far I could push the bike before needing a rest. The road got steeper and steeper and the pushing the bike rests were finally spaced every 20m or so.

Green, green, everywhere

Green, green, everywhere

Looking up - a long way up

Looking up – a long way up

The road up

The road up

Today I climbed from 2350m to 3700m. Who knows how high the pass is. I am told it is 20km away, but not quite as steep. ☺

Day 226. 72km. Erchu – Geka

Posted: December 24, 2015 in China, Cycling
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Today the sun shone, the road was immaculate, and I climbed into the heavens. A 1100m climb and a 1650m drop. These mountains are big!

High mountains

High mountains

The climb followed the valley to the north, which meant I had no wind – or tailwind. The road climbed, rising higher and higher over the river a long way below. Higher peaks poked over the horizon, and even rugged snow-capped peaks in the distance.

Farm

Farm

Temple in the sun

Temple in the sun

Temple in the distance

Temple in the distance

The drop was enormous, and quite steep as I followed a fast flowing river. The headwind kept my speed in check. I am in the last village before the now infamous ‘bad road’. Everyone shakes their head in disbelief that I intend to cycle it. I have been told it is 40km to the summit. I am now at 2500m, and I suspect the summit is at about 4500m. It is going to be a hard day tomorrow – a hard day in beautiful sunny weather.

Some twists and turns

Some twists and turns


‘That road is impossible!’
‘The road to Shangri La is back where you have come from.’
I get warnings of people indicating a near vertical climb on rocks and through mud. This is sounding worrying. Following the insider tip from my hotel manager.

View from my abode

View from my abode

The main road from Daocheng to Shangri La is a mudbath. I spent 12 hours in a bus on it from Daocheng to Shangri La and 12 hours back. 300km in 12 hours. The valley is very beautiful with some massive, massive climbs.

Shangri La was my well-earned rest and recreation. I ate western food to my heart’s content, and hung out in cafes, sipping tea as the sun shone in through the window. I was forced to stay there for 4 days waiting for my visa extension. I’m glad I was forced. ☺

Me and my cat

Me and my cat

The alternate road to Shangri La so far is great. The perfect, brand new road meant that I hardly noticed climbing over the 4500m high pass (despite the standard headwind). I am staying in a Tibetan family’s house. The main room is amazing. All vanished wood, from floor to walls to ceiling, there are three massive pillars along the centre line of the room. The wood stove takes an important place on one side, with an ornate Tibetan painted carving on the wall behind.

I watched on in curiosity as various activities were carried out, including separating cream from milk. What a different life they lead.

Separating the milk

Separating the milk

Another 4500m

Another 4500m


Today I cycled through some spectacular scenery in the lovely bright sunshine and the strong headwind. I climbed up to a grassy, sometimes rocky, wasteland where the sun and clouds played beautiful light games. I’m now in Daocheng, ready for a break from cycling – a bus to Shangri La for a visa extension.

Grassy plains

Grassy plains

Looking down the pass

Looking down the pass

View from the top of the pass

View from the top of the pass

Grassy plains

Grassy plains

Rocky plateau

Rocky plateau

Descending from the plains

Descending from the plains


Many towns in the mountains in Sichuan are huge construction sites. Everything, but everything is being built new. The heavy trucks driving around results in all the roads being a quagmire. I have seen it over and over. China is rebuilding itself. A big leap forward.

Mudbath Litang

Mudbath Litang

In my search for dumplings for breakfast, I saw Litang in all its muddy glory. The main road was nearly impossible to traverse – even just pushing the bike. But, once I left the town, the road was pristine.

Mud bath in Litang

Mud bath in Litang

Today was always a bit uncertain. It was 40km to a town, then 80km of nothing, climbing 1000m to the high plains. The 40km town was not far enough, so I proceeded up, planning to camp somewhere. It was lovely and sunny, and the road smooth. Progress was slow due to the sizable headwind, and I called it a day at a little service area where they offered me an empty room.

Hore racing

Hore racing

On the way up

On the way up

My humble abode

My humble abode

Day 222. 80km. Junba – Litang

Posted: December 20, 2015 in China, Cycling
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With 1300m to climb, it was an early start. Rain gave way to sun, and it was beautiful climbing and climbing and climbing. Out of the valley and onto a rolling green mossy landscape. The high plains.

The mossy plains

The mossy plains

And into the construction site town of Litang.

View from the high pass

View from the high pass

View from the top of the pass

View from the top of the pass

At the top of the pass

At the top of the pass

Clouds

Clouds

Litang

Litang

Day 221. 78km. Xinlong – Junba

Posted: December 19, 2015 in China, Cycling
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Last night I didn’t sleep much. Next door there was a hard-rock club playing until the morning – in this monastery town. Then the road continued in the sun, up and down along this steep sided canyon. I’m at the base of a massive climb. Tomorrow will be an early start.

The valley

The valley

Prayer flags

Prayer flags

The valley

The valley