Archive for the ‘Cycling’ Category


Cycling alone again today, the beaches just kept on getting more beautiful, and more peaceful. Ban Krut never ended with its white sands lined with palm trees. I ended at another cute little beach with the standard kaarst structures on the horizon and the calm, tranquil sea.

Ban Krut - time for a swim

Ban Krut – time for a swim

Arne decided to catch a lift to a bigger town to get his bike seen to, so, it was me keeping myself company again. I like being by myself, and cycling through this amazing landscape. It is perfect being able to stop and do whatever I like, when I like. I stayed off the main road except for a short 28km stretch in the morning, and then drank up the serenity of the back roads following the shoreline.

Sunrise at Prachuap Khiri Khan

Sunrise at Prachuap Khiri Khan

The beach road

The beach road

Ban Krut

Ban Krut

Hat Bang Bird

Hat Bang Bird

Ban Krut

Ban Krut


The high passes follow each other without a break in between. Climb 500m, drop 500m, then directly up 600m, then down. I stopped early in Ning’er leaving the next 600m climb for tomorrow – opting for an afternoon siesta instead.

The mountains

The mountains

The silence of the high plains has been replaced by crickets, cicadas and birds. The yaks have been replaced by water buffalo. The mountains have been replaced by.. mountains. I am inching forward towards the Laos border. My displacement each day from the day before looks small to me on the map, but I know what climbs have been conquered. This will not be a fast dash.

Water buffalo

Water buffalo


An imaginary line circles the globe at 23.43724 degrees north – where the sun reaches directly overhead on mid-summer day. I crossed this line today, and am now officially in the tropics.

On the Tropic of Cancer

On the Tropic of Cancer

I am on the couch out the front of the little shop in the tiny village. The sun is shining brightly, and I sit in the shade, devouring my ice-creams. Inside, in the gloom, the television is running – a daytime soap – in Chinese. The drama and suspense oozes from the television as the breathless woman’s voice pleads with her handsome lover. The music adds to the suspense, as I listen from outside. The little old woman who sold me the ice-creams watches inside with bated breath. Outside, the village is peaceful. The sun is all-powerful. Nothing moves. Then, a motorbike pulls up. The boy buys some cigarettes and then rides off into the glare. I study the map.
The woman taps me on the shoulder. She hands me a big chunk of gingerbread cake. She smiles and nods as I thank her with my eyes. In her eyes I see her inner peace and her kindness. ‘Good on ya, lad. This is for you!’

The up-and-down cycling was interspersed with stops in the villages. One village was fruit gorging time. A few dragon fruit, pears, apples and grapes. One village was ice-creams. One village was real food. It is slow going – it is never flat, and often quite steep. It is beautiful, though, cycling through this mountainous, tropical landscape.

The morning mist lifts

The morning mist lifts

River

River

The valley

The valley


This coast is stunning. Calm roads, calm waters. Kaarst formations jutting out of the plains and out of the sea. Palm trees lining the roads next to the sandy beaches. And a cave that is a massive sinkhole in the kaarst landscape – the sun shining in like a beam from the heavens lighting up the golden temple. Amazing.

Temple at the Phraya Nathan cave

Temple at the Phraya Nathan cave

We were woken up by the rooster orchestra, and by the fishermen preparing their boats for the day. It was a beautiful light, and a quiet road before everyone woke from their slumber.

Fisher boats in front of the tent

Fisher boats in front of the tent

The coast in the morning light

The coast in the morning light

The coast in the morning light

The coast in the morning light

The walk to the Phraya Nathan cave was steep, first to get to a beautiful palm-lined broad, wide, sandy beach, then then to get to the deep sinkhole in the kaarst mountain. It was just beautiful.

The beautiful coast

The beautiful coast

Phraya Nathan cave

Phraya Nathan cave

Phraya Nathan cave

Phraya Nathan cave

Arne was having some problems with his tyres, and then his brakes, so we are having a rest day tomorrow. I’m looking forward to lazing around in this beautiful place. No blog tomorrow.. ☺


My piss is red! A quick google. The dragon fruit is the culprit. I ate two of them just next to where they were growing. The woman was asleep at her table when I arrived, in the shade under the umbrella, next to the plants. I’m cycling through dragon fruit land!

Dragon fruit

Dragon fruit

The road follows the river, rising above it, then dropping down, only to rise again. Above the river I cycle through dense greenery, in the cool shade, with the cicadas. They are almost deafening, their call rising to a crescendo and then subsiding in waves. I hear the hoot of a bird – unknown to me, but, it sounds tropical. I can just imagine its bright colours and impressive plumage. The hills around me are very pointy, rising steeply from the valley. They are all densely covered in tropical green. The air is humid, and a comfortable temperature in the early 20s. How everything has changed from the barren, cold mountains I have left.

River

River

River

River

Field

Field


The sea. Palm trees. White sand. Camping on the beach. The sky silhouettes the mountains as it turns orange, pink and then fades to black. It’s a summer holiday in the tropics – and I have cycled here from Holland. Happy.

Khao Kalok

Khao Kalok

We cycled more on smaller roads today that followed the coast, and passed through the first beach resort towns. We cycled past an official viewpoint every kilometre. None of the viewpoints had a view.

A viewpoint without a view

A viewpoint without a view

Arne has cycled from Belgium to here via India, and camped almost every night. He brought me over my renewed fear of camping (when there are perfectly good beds), and we have our tents on the beach (in perfect view of the road). It is kind of cool, camping just metres from the water on a sandy beach.

Early morning light

Early morning light

The water plains

The water plains

Khao Kalok

Khao Kalok


Today was bumpy. Like in Finland, the bumps are 50m down and 40m up. On and on. So, I went down a valley, but it was hard work. The scenery was nice – seeing more palm trees now.

Mountains

Mountains

The road down

The road down


Leaving megacities takes time – time on big arterial roads with lots of traffic. Its not pleasant cycling, but it was safe enough with the wide side lane. Cycling along minding my own business, I was overtaken by another cyclist – Arne from Belgium. He’s heading to Singapore – like me, so we cycled together along the busy, flat, straight road.

The beautiful road

The beautiful road

We are now close to the sea – the sea I have not seen since Turkey (except briefly at Bangpoo). Bring on the beach!

Arne and me

Arne and me


I could hear the crickets and the cicadas. The sun was out, it was warm, and there were eucalyptus trees. I got all teary. It felt more familiar – in some ways it felt like Australia. But it was foreign too. Chinese writing, markets and food stalls. And more tropical plants. I am entering the tropics!

Familiar trees

Familiar trees

It has been cold and wet. It has been hilly. The going has been very slow. The daily displacements have been small – 100km on windy roads doesn’t bring you far as the crow flies. Today the sun came out. The road was still hilly, but, with the familiar vegetation and the warmth, it felt like I was cycling on a different planet.

Valley

Valley

Yesterday was another rest day – in Dali. When it’s raining, the urge to cycle is low. I was in Dali with Ann and Liam (the English name I gave him), and we had a nice walk to a temple on the mountain behind Dali.

Me, Ann and Liam

Me, Ann and Liam


Mountains, oceans, deserts and impenetrable jungles have shaped the flow of mankind throughout history. I get a shiver down my spine when I cross these natural barriers and pass from one world to the next, and experience people and cultures so different from my own. I am cycling across the massive Eurasian continent – a land-mass where the majority of humanity lives. Over Christmas and New Year I was in Bangkok and North-east India – two vastly different places. Another taste of the diversity of the planet. Man, this trip is cool!

Looking out over the plains of Bangladesh

Looking out over the plains of Bangladesh

The Revenge of Geography by Robert Kaplan explains the history of mankind through the lens of geography. The vast deserts of western China. The Himalayas, Karakorum and Hindu Kush mountains. They separate cultures so different – India, China, Europe. The heartland of Eurasia – Iran, the stans and western China – have been the crossroads where civilizations meet and create a common intricate history.

Cycling along, I see and hear words from languages and lands far away. I was amazed hearing Turkish words deep into the stans. And one day I stopped in amazement when the penny dropped, and realised the word I had been seeing in Cyrillic script in Kyrgyzstan all this time in shop windows was the Hindi word Dukan. This place is the melting-pot of civilization, and you can feel it everywhere.

India
In 2015 I cycled through China and experienced the land deeply. At Christmas time, I left my bike in Bangkok, and flew to India – another major culture on the Eurasian landmass. I was not very far from where I had been in China – just the other side of the tallest mountains in the world. The Himalayas shield these countries from each other and the cultures are so different.

For me Bollywood music and films transport me instantly back to India. Such a happy, iconic music with surreal love scenes and frivolity. Driving back from the airport with Bollywood filling my ears, we saw people picnicking and dancing on the banks of the Bramaputra River – the lifeblood of so many millions of people.

Dill wale

Dill wale

India is so very different to China, and so very different from south-east Asia, and so very different from the west. Motor and cycle-rickshaws abound, the traffic is chaotic spewing out poisonous fumes that create the thick cloud of pollution hanging over the city. The markets, the shops, the buildings are all so.. Indian. The haggling, buying and even temple donations is particularly fierce – especially as a foreigner with a (perceived) endless wallet. Although very different, India also feels familiar – Australia shares its Commonwealth roots, and with my Indian friends of similar age, we could reminisce about the cricket stars of years long gone.

I gave a presentation to some local kids about the bike trip and sustainability for Green Pedals. Global warming could affect these children so much in their lifetimes (and also in my lifetime) as the glaciers feeding the Bramaputra dry up. These kids got it, and these kids were motivated. I love talking to kids and seeing the light in their eyes. The excitement in a new life just starting.

The kids in Guwahati

The kids in Guwahati

The Assam Tribune

The Assam Tribune

Newspaper article

Newspaper article

Thank you my good friends Autri and Jodi, and Autri’s wonderful Indian family for your amazing hospitality. I saw some beautiful parts of north-east India in Assam and the scenic hills of Meghalaya – the last burst of mountains before the steep drop to the endless river delta plains of Bangladesh. And thank you to Autri’s mother Anuradha for your hospitality and passion to make India and the world a better place.

Little shops

Little shops

Zombies

Zombies

In the hammock

In the hammock

Autri's lovely mother

Autri’s lovely mother

Bangkok
I didn’t visit the temples. I didn’t go to Kao San Road. Bangkok was eating, relaxing and seeing friends – heaven after a lot of cycling. Oh – and lots of thai massages.

Bangkok feels like the antithesis of Iran and central Asia. It was great to be, for example, served by a transvestite in the major shopping complex food court. That would not be possible anywhere else in the world (outside of gay areas). In some way, people are free, and in others, the political turmoil is sad for the lovely people of this beautiful country.

Me, Jay and Mark

Me, Jay and Mark

Tomorrow I am continuing my trip in a new year – down one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. I am so excited to be cycling along beautiful palm lined beaches and turquoise blue water – landscapes so foreign to the ones at home (wherever that home may be).